Rust Coating?

[Jonny671]

I've just got my MX5 and a few of the arms and strut braces etc underneath are abit rusty.. But just surface rust their still all intact.

Is there something I can coat them in? Or give them a rub down with a wire brush and then paint something onto them?

[sherman]

Waxoyl and make sure there is plenty of ventilation or you are wearing an appropriate mask.

[Jonny671]

sherman said:

Waxoyl and make sure there is plenty of ventilation or you are wearing an appropriate mask.

Thanks. Do I paint that on or does it have to be done professionally?

[sherman]

You can buy spray cans or you can paint it on. You dont need a profesional to do it you just need time and patience to make sure you get everything

[ymwoods]

As a side question, as this is something I have been waiting for the summer to do.

I have heard people say that they coat the bottom of the car in it to prevent rust, by "coating" do they mean that they just go to town by painting absolutly everything in it, or do you have to be carefull about what your coating?

Also, any tips for application?

[P9]

Don't worry too much, it will clean off with petrol but avoid areas around brakes and also any electrical sensors.

Oh and the exhaust

[anonymous-user]

Dinitrol is better than Waxoyl, lasts longer but does cost more.

[Mroad]

Waxoyl is just a wax. It will stop rust forming on new metal by preventing water and oxygen getting to the surface but it won't stop rust that's already there. In fact in some case it can do more harm than good if you trap moisture with the rust under the wax.
If it's already rusty you need a rust converter to start with and then a protection film like Waxoyl over the top for total protection.
Dinitrol RC900 is recommended as a rust converter (comes in an aerosol) or I use Loctite 7500.
You just remove the loose rust with a wire brush, brush or spray on the converter. It turns the rust into an organic black compound. Give it another coat to make sure everything is covered and let it dry for 24 hours.
For total protection then go over with a wax type top layer but bear in mind you really need something thicker than Waxoyl for under the car as Waxoyl is a thin cavity wax rather than an underbody wax. As it's thin Waxoyl will wash off in exposed areas after a few years.
Mil Spec 3215 wax is recommended by www.rust.co.uk or you can use Dinitrol 4942.

Just as an example I painted the top side of a completely rusty iron block about two years ago with a coat of Loctite 7500 and it's only just showing a few specks of rust through it now. The block has been left outside in the elements (not undercover) all that time. It's a great product.

If you want more details there is a whole article on rustproofing in the May edition of Car Mechanics.
They used www.rust.co.uk who provide a rust proofing service as well as supplying kits.

[Neil_Sc]

Bilt Hamber Dynax S50 http://www.bilthamber.com/dynaxs50.html

[inman999]

joshc said:

Dinitrol is better than Waxoyl, lasts longer but does cost more.

This.

The job will still cost under £100 if you do it yourself, so a worthy investment which you would probably get back come resale time anyway.

[P9]

Also check out POR15, it is for use after a rust converter.

POR15 forms an immensely strong bond with metal surfaces.

You can then coat over that with an underbody sealer too.

Your car is unlikely to ever rust with this combination on the underside.

I'll watch this thread with interest as I'm rebuilding an MG currently

I always have an open mind and quite happy to investigate other recommendations.

[Jonny671]

P9 said:

Also check out POR15, it is for use after a rust converter.

POR15 forms an immensely strong bond with metal surfaces.

You can then coat over that with an underbody sealer too.

Your car is unlikely to ever rust with this combination on the underside.

I'll watch this thread with interest as I'm rebuilding an MG currently

I always have an open mind and quite happy to investigate other recommendations.

Thats whats been recommended over on MX5 Nutz