Going to check out a Mk1 tonight...
Discussion
There's a tidy V-Special edition (I think that's right, a 1990 car with British racing green paint and a tan interior, Nardi steering wheel etc.) that I'm going to take a look at tonight.
Is there anything in particular I should look out for, other than the common faults listed on the Buyer Guide in this section?
Is there anything in particular I should look out for, other than the common faults listed on the Buyer Guide in this section?
Yeah, couldn't see any rust, holes or other issues with them. Didn't take the skirts off for a proper look (which I understand is the best way, from photos?) but it all seems fine apart from to the sides of each kick plate.
Oil wasn't particularly dirty and hadn't just been changed. Clutch and cambelt replaced last service, 12 months MOT and four months tax
Oil wasn't particularly dirty and hadn't just been changed. Clutch and cambelt replaced last service, 12 months MOT and four months tax
Sounds like a good 'un, my first Eunos was a '92 V-Spec in BRG exactly as you described yours. Easily the best looking five... maybe bar the R-limited...
What was the mechanical spec? You could get them with torsen and viscous LSD's on that model, whilst not essential as they're not that powerful, they're a nice to have and I think are worth a little bit of money.
Did it have Bistein suspension on also? They're far better looking with the lower suspension, but the Bilteins give an utterly back-breaking ride at times, and are really better suited to track work.
What was the mechanical spec? You could get them with torsen and viscous LSD's on that model, whilst not essential as they're not that powerful, they're a nice to have and I think are worth a little bit of money.
Did it have Bistein suspension on also? They're far better looking with the lower suspension, but the Bilteins give an utterly back-breaking ride at times, and are really better suited to track work.
Picked up the MX5.
I knew it'd have a dead battery so I planned on getting it to Halfords where I'd change the battery straight away, or at least get it home so that I could take the GT-Four to a battery place.
No, wouldn't have it. Engine cut out while sat at lights on a roundabout, no way I was going to get it started again, even with the jumpstarter I'd brought along with me (I'd already jumpstarted it once using that, guess it must have used up too much charge).
Fortunately the roundabout was a stones throw away from Halfords, so with my friends carefully watching the car and explaining to anyone who asked what was going on, I legged it to Halfords and bought a battery and socket set, and then changed the battery on the roundabout.
All seems fine now. Oddly, the tachometer wouldn't work at all until I replaced the battery, and then it started working flawlessly.
Electric windows don't work - the passenger side goes up and down but very slowly, and the driver's side is totally dead - no activity at all when I push the switch as far as I can tell.
There's a weird grinding noise coming from the back of the car when I let up off the accelerator or dip the clutch - could this be the clutch on the way out? The previous owner had it changed 3,000 miles ago (and I believe there was a receipt for it too, but I can't check at the moment)
The gearknob and gear gaiter gets very warm when driving - I've read on here that this is just heat from the transmission tunnel escaping from the drivetrain, is that a major issue?
I knew it'd have a dead battery so I planned on getting it to Halfords where I'd change the battery straight away, or at least get it home so that I could take the GT-Four to a battery place.
No, wouldn't have it. Engine cut out while sat at lights on a roundabout, no way I was going to get it started again, even with the jumpstarter I'd brought along with me (I'd already jumpstarted it once using that, guess it must have used up too much charge).
Fortunately the roundabout was a stones throw away from Halfords, so with my friends carefully watching the car and explaining to anyone who asked what was going on, I legged it to Halfords and bought a battery and socket set, and then changed the battery on the roundabout.
All seems fine now. Oddly, the tachometer wouldn't work at all until I replaced the battery, and then it started working flawlessly.
Electric windows don't work - the passenger side goes up and down but very slowly, and the driver's side is totally dead - no activity at all when I push the switch as far as I can tell.
There's a weird grinding noise coming from the back of the car when I let up off the accelerator or dip the clutch - could this be the clutch on the way out? The previous owner had it changed 3,000 miles ago (and I believe there was a receipt for it too, but I can't check at the moment)
The gearknob and gear gaiter gets very warm when driving - I've read on here that this is just heat from the transmission tunnel escaping from the drivetrain, is that a major issue?
I'm new to all this, but from what I've read the heat coming through the transmission can be solved by replacing the boot on the bottom of the lever?
The passenger window probably needs the doorcard taking off and blathering in silocone spray, the drivers could use the same, but might actually have an eletrical problem
Not sure on the rest like
Good luck
The passenger window probably needs the doorcard taking off and blathering in silocone spray, the drivers could use the same, but might actually have an eletrical problem
Not sure on the rest like
Good luck
A lot of MX5 gearboxes do make a lot of noise. There isn't a lot of sound-protection in these cars and there are also drain-tube that run from just behind your head to the floor behind the gearbox which also transmits a lot of road and transmission noise. What is your noise like and when exactly does it happen?
As for the heat on the gear stick - replace the 2 rubber boots (one fit's on the gearbox itself and the other over the hole in the transmission tunnel) and make sure there is some reasonable oil (90cc of any oil) in the turret.
As for the heat on the gear stick - replace the 2 rubber boots (one fit's on the gearbox itself and the other over the hole in the transmission tunnel) and make sure there is some reasonable oil (90cc of any oil) in the turret.
gazchap said:
The gearknob and gear gaiter gets very warm when driving - I've read on here that this is just heat from the transmission tunnel escaping from the drivetrain, is that a major issue?
My gearknob and the transmission tunnel got very warm when I bought mine last year. All the forums say TADTS. However, Mark (OnlyMX5ives) took the gearlever surround off to top up the gearbox oil and found both of the rubber baffle/gaiter things round the base of the gearlever were absolutely finished, ripped all the way round, so that was letting a lot of heat through. Changing those made an enormous difference. It still gets warm but not as much!I was feeling a bit of buyers remorse today after last nights drama, but I went out for a lengthy drive with the missus earlier and it was glorious
A smooth ride, great handling. Bliss.
The grinding happens when I lift off the loud pedal after accelerating, and goes away when I dip the clutch in, coming back when I let it back out.
Sounds like it's coming from the rear nearside.
A smooth ride, great handling. Bliss.
The grinding happens when I lift off the loud pedal after accelerating, and goes away when I dip the clutch in, coming back when I let it back out.
Sounds like it's coming from the rear nearside.
gazchap said:
I was feeling a bit of buyers remorse today after last nights drama, but I went out for a lengthy drive with the missus earlier and it was glorious
A smooth ride, great handling. Bliss.
The grinding happens when I lift off the loud pedal after accelerating, and goes away when I dip the clutch in, coming back when I let it back out.
Sounds like it's coming from the rear nearside.
Sounds like the Power plant frame (PPF) At the factory these (They support the engine/diff/gearbox on one piece) are put together with vey exacting specifications, if they even get slightly lose/out of alignment then they vibrate and it's incredibly hard to get them exactly perfect again. This very probably started briefly after the clutch was changed. The good news is, it's nothing to worry about, it's not like your diff's about to explode!A smooth ride, great handling. Bliss.
The grinding happens when I lift off the loud pedal after accelerating, and goes away when I dip the clutch in, coming back when I let it back out.
Sounds like it's coming from the rear nearside.
If it's anything to compare to mine, it sounded like it was coming from the left of the engine bay, like a loose metallic covered hose was tapping against something. Then my mate sat in the passenger seat and told me it was definetly coming from his right. I then briefly pooed myself with worry thinking my gearbox was buggered.
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