what`s the best method
Discussion
No point buying both unless you like to swap your wax/sealant from time to time.
FK1000 is possibly better on alloys to protect them somewhat from grime building up, but Collinite is considered the more durable of the two on the paintwork.
As for regime - unless you're using SRP to mask and/or remove lighter swirl marks, then you don't need to do much other than wash, clay, dry, wax.
And you don't need to clay the whole car, if done not that long ago - just the areas were you feel anything when using a bit of clingfilm over your fingertips after rinsing.
FK1000 is possibly better on alloys to protect them somewhat from grime building up, but Collinite is considered the more durable of the two on the paintwork.
As for regime - unless you're using SRP to mask and/or remove lighter swirl marks, then you don't need to do much other than wash, clay, dry, wax.
And you don't need to clay the whole car, if done not that long ago - just the areas were you feel anything when using a bit of clingfilm over your fingertips after rinsing.
Nope - sealants don't bond to wax, but to the substrate itself.
Waxes are less fussy about what they sit on top of.
Bear in mind the reason for waxing over a sealant is for a few reasons - flawed ones at that.
1) Most liquid sealants like say Zaino Z-2 are considered to be/have a sterile look - a very matter of fact result - so waxes, which are deemed to have a warmth/glow, are used to counteract the sterility.
This is very much perception based, and not everyone subscribes to the Emperor having no clothes on.
2) Most sealants tend not to offer small, tight beading characteristics when it rains, so waxing over the sealant restores this loss of aesthetic beading quality.
The downside to beading is dirt and minerals in the raindrop, get left behind when the water evaporates, so you end up with this terrible mottled effect on the flat panels.
3) Most people think multiple layers will last longer.
This is true up to a point - 2-3 layers in total is about the best you can hope for, and that's if you leave the previous layer for up to 24 hours to fully cure.
Most users will put subsequent layers on far too soon, so the carrier solvents in the product will likely interfere/remove some of the preceding layer.
But don't be fooled into believing a carnauba wax will last beyond 3-4 months - by that stage, contaminants, UV, and heat cycles will have deteriorated it to the point of needing to be stripped off, and redone. And the same applies to putting a fresh layer on each month - the original base layer will have shot its bolt.
Waxes are less fussy about what they sit on top of.
Bear in mind the reason for waxing over a sealant is for a few reasons - flawed ones at that.
1) Most liquid sealants like say Zaino Z-2 are considered to be/have a sterile look - a very matter of fact result - so waxes, which are deemed to have a warmth/glow, are used to counteract the sterility.
This is very much perception based, and not everyone subscribes to the Emperor having no clothes on.
2) Most sealants tend not to offer small, tight beading characteristics when it rains, so waxing over the sealant restores this loss of aesthetic beading quality.
The downside to beading is dirt and minerals in the raindrop, get left behind when the water evaporates, so you end up with this terrible mottled effect on the flat panels.
3) Most people think multiple layers will last longer.
This is true up to a point - 2-3 layers in total is about the best you can hope for, and that's if you leave the previous layer for up to 24 hours to fully cure.
Most users will put subsequent layers on far too soon, so the carrier solvents in the product will likely interfere/remove some of the preceding layer.
But don't be fooled into believing a carnauba wax will last beyond 3-4 months - by that stage, contaminants, UV, and heat cycles will have deteriorated it to the point of needing to be stripped off, and redone. And the same applies to putting a fresh layer on each month - the original base layer will have shot its bolt.
In all fairness to CYC, that's a nice gesture, but remember, if you use the FK1000, and decide it's not for you, then they can't resell it again.
Well the can as used, but they'll be expected to discount the price.
So, from the point of view, and in lieu of what I've explained, you might just keep both or return one unopened.
Well the can as used, but they'll be expected to discount the price.
So, from the point of view, and in lieu of what I've explained, you might just keep both or return one unopened.
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