Changing the sump gasket

[BliarOut]

Is it as straightforward as it looks? Undo bolts, drop sump, clean and replace or does anything like the slave cylinder get in the way?

[daveb500]

BliarOut said:

Is it as straightforward as it looks? Undo bolts, drop sump, clean and replace or does anything like the slave cylinder get in the way?

Yet is is that simple....but a bit of a pain if you haven't got a ramp (but then most things under the car are). You will probably need a jack or something to hold it in place so you can do up the nuts.

[BliarOut]

What with disposing of the old oil etc I'm tempted to let the local garage do it. Like you say, messy on axle stands.

ETA, that said, how much is a gasket and can you get them online?

Edited by BliarOut on Friday 21st May 17:29

[daveb500]

Depends what you decide to use. A lot of people seem to use silicon but it can end up in the ooil pick-up which is not a good thing. I used a cork gasket last time with a smidging of silicon on it. It's a standard LandRover gasket.

Looks like about £10 inc postage.

Edited by daveb500 on Friday 21st May 17:38

[BliarOut]

I'm a blue Hylomar man Seeing as the rubber one I have in there at the mo has perished I'll get a cork one if they're cheaper.

[DVR 64]

Hi,before you refit the sump just withdraw the dipstick 3 to 4 inches,makes it a lot easier to fit.You'll see what i mean when you do the job.Also give the mesh on the pickup a good clean.

[BliarOut]

Top tip about the dipstick!

You had to go and spoil it with the lift thing, didn't you Quinny

Are all LR/Disco etc. gaskets the same?

[spend]

3.5/3.9/4.2 are the same pattern, 4.0/4.6 have a different pattern sump.

[BliarOut]

And the 5.0?

Sod it, I've just seen RG/Clever Trevor sell them, I'll just order one up instead of getting it locally. I'll get the right part then

One day I'll have a drip free garage floor!

[spend]

5.0's are just grown up 3.9's..

[Simon says]

Always check the oil pick up strainer is clean and the two bolts that secure it to the block have not come loose while your in there.

[spend]

BliarOut said:

One day I'll have a drip free garage floor!

Ban Beachy if that's your only problem?

[BliarOut]

Well I'm bloody glad I went in there, the sump gasket was all but gone, no wonder she leaked. I found most of it though, the oil strainer was completely full of it!!! How it had oil pressure (was typically 35PSI) I'll never know. On the plus side there was absolutely nothing metallic in the sump whatsoever

[spend]

So was it a rubber gasket???? or cork or the poorly done silicone (LR used hylosil BTW which seems to work well).

[Simon says]

spend said:

So was it a rubber gasket???? or cork or the poorly done silicone (LR used hylosil BTW which seems to work well).

I like the way Spend said poorly done silicone because used correctly it is never a problem and should never break away from the joint it seals,but in saying this i prefer to use a good quality cork gasket with a smear of Wellseal and have been leak free for at least 2 years +

Edited by Simon says on Wednesday 26th May 15:35

[BliarOut]

Cork. I ran a file across the joint face and the bolt holes were all proud from the stamping, gave it a bit of a dressing and all should be well. For the time it takes and how much cleaning you can do I'll probably drop it next oil change just in case.

[spend]

Get some studs it makes locating the gasket & sump a lot easier

So it was cork, and you replaced it with cork if I understand you correctly. I have seen completely disintegrated cork gaskets, hence I use foam rubber and a dab of hylosil in the corners, bit of vaseline on the block surface & they come off go on a treat. If you don't want to drop the sump often the hylosil is fine, I suspect many are using silicones that are designed as adhesives more than sealants as well as over application The hylosil stays like a kind of putty after years use and you can just about peel it off from what I have observed.