Air admission carbon hose
Discussion
you can find stainless steel on ebay here in germany, probalb you have to weld them togehter to get 180 degree tube. Another option could be SAMCO hoses.
You probably have to look out for the guys that are running turbos in their skylines, they need a lot of that stuff for their tuning.
You probably have to look out for the guys that are running turbos in their skylines, they need a lot of that stuff for their tuning.
Edited by spatz on Monday 31st May 08:03
Hi Uwe and thanks for answering.
I can't use Samco Hoses as they have silicon hoses only and not in diameter 100mm.
I need either steel or composite bended tube as a shield against high temp because my air admission
is just between the custom made exhaust headers as shown on picture hereafter :
I can't use Samco Hoses as they have silicon hoses only and not in diameter 100mm.
I need either steel or composite bended tube as a shield against high temp because my air admission
is just between the custom made exhaust headers as shown on picture hereafter :
donkeasy said:
Looks like you are, or have a good welder there.
What you can do is make an alluminium 100mm ring
to fit over the existing part and weld it to
a bigger 180 degree alluminum corner you can find.
A filter you can get in various sizes, to fit.
Yes, that's a solution... but would have prefered carbon as it's a better thermic shield.What you can do is make an alluminium 100mm ring
to fit over the existing part and weld it to
a bigger 180 degree alluminum corner you can find.
A filter you can get in various sizes, to fit.
I've seen one in the Ultima Gallery (page 5) fitting a carbon airbox. But who made it ?
Here is the pic :
Edited by budala on Monday 31st May 19:28
I allready have the air filter but can change it if necessary :
Edited by budala on Monday 31st May 19:31
738 driver said:
Fred, on E-bay UK are 180 degree, 100mm I.D. silicone hoses and 100mm carbon straight tube. Use these to reverse the intake path toward the cabin and extend the filter position up inside the intake scoop (inbetween and behind the seat headrests)
Unfortunately not enough room to do so. We've tried this option...Thanks Mark and Stuart, I will contact them.
Edited by budala on Monday 31st May 22:10
Just a thought, kindly meant:
Do you think, you will have a heat problem?
after all it is cooled by fesh air all the time
and when it warms up with alluminium you will have the same with carbon.
Of course you will say that every up degree gives less power.
But if you have a heat problem with alluminium you will have one with carbon also.
And you will have to isolate beside the pipe anyway
For the look I can imagin that you use carbon.
but I also like a nicely made alluminium part.
it's www.Reverie.ltd.uk
Do you think, you will have a heat problem?
after all it is cooled by fesh air all the time
and when it warms up with alluminium you will have the same with carbon.
Of course you will say that every up degree gives less power.
But if you have a heat problem with alluminium you will have one with carbon also.
And you will have to isolate beside the pipe anyway
For the look I can imagin that you use carbon.
but I also like a nicely made alluminium part.
it's www.Reverie.ltd.uk
Edited by donkeasy on Tuesday 1st June 00:33
MarkWebb said:
The air box is made by Reverie I believe. Not sure about the 180 bend. Reverie make a lot of carbon stuff
Not quite correct...That airbox is made by Andy Burrows (AKA LS Power / Gardner Douglas)... also the 180 bend and all mountings. You can get him on 01949 843299 or at http://www.gdcars.comyou should not really be worried at all about temperatures, there is such a high airflow through the intake system at high veolcities so there is no chance for the incoming air to heat up.
You could actually use only a 90 degree bend, which would be much easier to source and weld it directly to you air box that holds the filter. The GD carbon piece is sure a looker.
You could actually use only a 90 degree bend, which would be much easier to source and weld it directly to you air box that holds the filter. The GD carbon piece is sure a looker.
spatz said:
you should not really be worried at all about temperatures, there is such a high airflow through the intake system at high veolcities so there is no chance for the incoming air to heat up.
You could actually use only a 90 degree bend, which would be much easier to source and weld it directly to you air box that holds the filter. The GD carbon piece is sure a looker.
Thanks Uwe. I think I'm going to find a 90° plus a 45° bends, weld them together and hope it will do the job...You could actually use only a 90 degree bend, which would be much easier to source and weld it directly to you air box that holds the filter. The GD carbon piece is sure a looker.
Not trying to argue wuth Spatz, but my Motec says that with the filter that he is using, the inlet temp will run at least 40c maybe 45c on a 20c day. I had the exact same set up on my LS1 before I changed to Kinsler and an airbox mated to the hood, with the gold foil on the outside of the box. I have data logged it several tims since and the inlet air runs 1 to 2 degrees F higher than the ambient air mass. The other thing that happened with the filter shown is that when I made some very high speed runs 190 plus, on an closed airport the filter caved in. This is with a 565 hp 570 ft/lb LS1. So I will make the point that on a truly built motor that filter is too small. The filter I used was a K/N I should not make the assumption that the filter shown is the same. Lee
by the way from 20c to 45c would represent 34hp lft on the floor.
by the way from 20c to 45c would represent 34hp lft on the floor.
there is nothing to argue, if you have an air inlet from outside, you will have no problem, if you take the air from the engine bay that is a different story. And I agree that air filter is worth a thing to look at. For squeezing out the last hp it cannot be big enough. I was quite amazed how hard it is sucked to the air box even during moderate revs. So it presents a substantial resistance to the air intake systems. Not sure If there is a ram air effect with the GTR that could help to balance this out, definetely not the case on my Canam system that I have for now. One thing I have in mind for a future mod is to have 2 air inlet ducts on the rear clam that are feeding directly the air intake through 2 seperate filters.
Looking at Budalas system right now with having the air intake right where his exhaust pipes are passing, that is for sure a very bad idea. And it might even require somed shielding when he is using a bend to the top as I have measured around 350 degrees in idling mode at this location of the exhause. I had to shield the CATs from the drive shaft rubber as the temps there were way to high for the rubber !
Looking at Budalas system right now with having the air intake right where his exhaust pipes are passing, that is for sure a very bad idea. And it might even require somed shielding when he is using a bend to the top as I have measured around 350 degrees in idling mode at this location of the exhause. I had to shield the CATs from the drive shaft rubber as the temps there were way to high for the rubber !
Edited by spatz on Saturday 5th June 07:35
without an air box, you are gaining not much, you really need to take the air from outside, the intake will suck the air from the area with the smallest resistance, so most likely hot air from the engine bay, which is not good.
The air box will give you 2 advantages, you can get cold air from outside and you can use a large filter or even two filters.
I have been installing more hardware around the duct so the air intake is isolated now from the engine bay. There is no RAM air effect but I have cold air sucked in.
Unfortunately I cannot take any more pics at the moment as the car is not here.
The air box will give you 2 advantages, you can get cold air from outside and you can use a large filter or even two filters.
I have been installing more hardware around the duct so the air intake is isolated now from the engine bay. There is no RAM air effect but I have cold air sucked in.
Unfortunately I cannot take any more pics at the moment as the car is not here.
budala said:
738 driver said:
Fred, on E-bay UK are 180 degree, 100mm I.D. silicone hoses and 100mm carbon straight tube. Use these to reverse the intake path toward the cabin and extend the filter position up inside the intake scoop (inbetween and behind the seat headrests)
Unfortunately not enough room to do so. We've tried this option...Frank, done/seen 2-3 as I suggested, the air filter ends up cenrally in the upper scoop front edge, similar to Spatz. Cant see why you dont have room unless your rear clip has been modified?
Above the centre upper chassis cross-member (which doesn't appear to be there any longer in your first pic) theres min 12 inches clearance, more than enough for a 100mm 180 bend as you move toward the front. You cut the hose at a slight angle to tilt the intake pipe up the clip angle, bkts off the coil mtgs on the rocker covers. Very simple.
Gassing Station | Ultima | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff