More paranoid questions
Discussion
Sorry everyone for my barrage of questions, but still getting to grips with the old girl.
Whilst stripping chassis / replacing shocks and waxoyling rear wishbones I noticed that nsr anti roll bar diagonal bar - the one that originates just in front of the fuel pump appears to have been re-welded to the main chassis member.
The reason I say appears is because there is a very neatly welded 4 x 2" plate on the main chssis runner just in front of the pump.
1)Is this normal - I guess not?
2)Should I be worried?
3) Will it affect MoT?
I guess the rear wishbone may have a taken a bit of a thud in the past to cause this, but all the wishbone pivot brackets look fine and normal - no obvious sign replacement etc..
The plate looks like it has been there a few years
The main chasis members have the seem welds in the right places and there is no abnormal wear to any of the tyres.
One final thing, where is VIN stamped on the chassis?
Thanks once again, Nick
Whilst stripping chassis / replacing shocks and waxoyling rear wishbones I noticed that nsr anti roll bar diagonal bar - the one that originates just in front of the fuel pump appears to have been re-welded to the main chassis member.
The reason I say appears is because there is a very neatly welded 4 x 2" plate on the main chssis runner just in front of the pump.
1)Is this normal - I guess not?
2)Should I be worried?
3) Will it affect MoT?
I guess the rear wishbone may have a taken a bit of a thud in the past to cause this, but all the wishbone pivot brackets look fine and normal - no obvious sign replacement etc..
The plate looks like it has been there a few years
The main chasis members have the seem welds in the right places and there is no abnormal wear to any of the tyres.
One final thing, where is VIN stamped on the chassis?
Thanks once again, Nick
Edited by vroom on Tuesday 8th June 22:30
vroom said:
Are all Cerbs grotty under this panel?
No!To be fair, if it has not been removed and the area cleaned for some time then you should expect it to be dirty...from general road dirt/grime, etc. Get some degreaser / powerful cleaner and give it wash - be careful with any local electrical kit / connections (not that many at the front).
Need pics of the rear chassis...?
If its the two support arms for the bracket that supports the ARB then I have been told that it is not unheard of for these arms to fracture or even fall off...more so on earlier cars?
As I say...need pics...
Well, mine was very grotty under the engine bay cover - I've owned mine for three months and have so far replaced all the water hoses for silicon, and the water pipes for stainless steel.
The rest of the engine bay looks bad, but it's all surface rust and flakey paint, it's work in progress as I've started to clean it all up - ready for a re paint which I haope to be able to do before the end of the month.
I've got the photo of my engine bay showing where the chassis number is hope this helps (it's outlined in red)
The rest of the engine bay looks bad, but it's all surface rust and flakey paint, it's work in progress as I've started to clean it all up - ready for a re paint which I haope to be able to do before the end of the month.
I've got the photo of my engine bay showing where the chassis number is hope this helps (it's outlined in red)
Thanks all
I will have a look tomorrow for the chassis no. To be honest I wasn't looking too hard yesterday, but rather looking at the state of the pipes and chassis!
As for refurb, I am just going to remove the flaking paint and give it a black waxoyl with plenty of clear waxoyl on the ageing metal pipes.
Long term I guess those metal coolant pipes will fail, so a stainless set looks good - but it'll have to wait!
The ARB plate has definitely been added and the upper diagonal ARB tube looks like its had a bit of a re-weld too.
Anyway all POR 15'd and waxoyl'd now so looks OK to me.
Cheers
Nick
I will have a look tomorrow for the chassis no. To be honest I wasn't looking too hard yesterday, but rather looking at the state of the pipes and chassis!
As for refurb, I am just going to remove the flaking paint and give it a black waxoyl with plenty of clear waxoyl on the ageing metal pipes.
Long term I guess those metal coolant pipes will fail, so a stainless set looks good - but it'll have to wait!
The ARB plate has definitely been added and the upper diagonal ARB tube looks like its had a bit of a re-weld too.
Anyway all POR 15'd and waxoyl'd now so looks OK to me.
Cheers
Nick
vroom said:
Thanks all
I will have a look tomorrow for the chassis no. To be honest I wasn't looking too hard yesterday, but rather looking at the state of the pipes and chassis!
As for refurb, I am just going to remove the flaking paint and give it a black waxoyl with plenty of clear waxoyl on the ageing metal pipes.
Long term I guess those metal coolant pipes will fail, so a stainless set looks good - but it'll have to wait!
The ARB plate has definitely been added and the upper diagonal ARB tube looks like its had a bit of a re-weld too.
Anyway all POR 15'd and waxoyl'd now so looks OK to me.
Cheers
Nick
Just my opinion - I wouldnt go daft with the waxoyl. I waxoyl the central part of the chassis, especially the outriggers but not the front and back...then again, I do keep on top of things cleaning and painting wise. If you do waxoyl the rear chassis make sure you don't clog up the speedometer sensor attached to the diff.I will have a look tomorrow for the chassis no. To be honest I wasn't looking too hard yesterday, but rather looking at the state of the pipes and chassis!
As for refurb, I am just going to remove the flaking paint and give it a black waxoyl with plenty of clear waxoyl on the ageing metal pipes.
Long term I guess those metal coolant pipes will fail, so a stainless set looks good - but it'll have to wait!
The ARB plate has definitely been added and the upper diagonal ARB tube looks like its had a bit of a re-weld too.
Anyway all POR 15'd and waxoyl'd now so looks OK to me.
Cheers
Nick
Have fun!
Waxoyl is great stuff for spraying into inaccessible areas of a car that are bare metal or already rusty. On a Cerb it should only be used if you just can't be arsed to do the job properly, or as a temporary measure on rusty bare metal areas until you do it properly - it does work. It's a waste of time spraying it onto painted areas. I'm doing a chassis at the moment and I've put 1.5 litres of waxoyl into the main chassis rails, so they will never rust from the inside.
JensenA said:
Waxoyl is great stuff for spraying into inaccessible areas of a car that are bare metal or already rusty. On a Cerb it should only be used if you just can't be arsed to do the job properly, or as a temporary measure on rusty bare metal areas until you do it properly - it does work. It's a waste of time spraying it onto painted areas. I'm doing a chassis at the moment and I've put 1.5 litres of waxoyl into the main chassis rails, so they will never rust from the inside.
Totally agree and I'm not just going crazy with Waxoyl:The outriggers have been stripped completely of all loose coating, Kurust'd (or whatever it is called), POR 15'd and waxoyld.
Wishbones scraped, brushed etc. etc. and the bare metal covered in black waxoyl.
On the basis that every TVR I have owned gets checked every 5 months or so underneath and every bit of recently exposed metal/ rust (due to cack factory coating flaking off) gets addressed, appears to me to keep the dreaded decay at bay
OK, I admit, if it's wet it aint being driven, so perhaps that helps things!
We all clean our teeth 2 or 3 times a day, but one day the odd tooth will fall out...
Gassing Station | Cerbera | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff