Discussion
anyone know what car was the donar for the gear stick mechanism in the tunnel as struggling to get car out of gear under load and this is the last bit to try done cables done gear box and till got fault spoke to factory today and they have run out of options ???????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????
The gear shift mechanism is really just a stick going through a ball-and-socket, so I really doubt that replacing it will fix your shifting problem. I suspect that Adrian is correct, that it's your clutch not releasing properly. Have you tried bleeding the clutch?
Before you pull the tranny, here are a few things to check. First, check to make sure that the bracket for the gear shift mechanism is firmly bolted to the tunnel, and that the gear shift is firmly bolted to the bracket. Second, adjust all the cables, along with the two fulcrums that mount to the tranny. Be sure to tighten down all the locknuts. Also, make sure the ball ends on the rods that run from the fulcrums to the transmission shift levers aren't binding against each other. Ball ends should be positioned so that the ball part is located in about the same place in each socket, so that if you rotate the threaded rod around its length until one ball end is centered, the other end is centered as well. Third, make sure the fulcrums pivot freely, but don't have a lot of vertical play. Fourth, make sure that the bolt the fulcrums pivot on is tight, but not so tight that the axle is distorted and the fulcrums stick. Using threadlocker on the bolt is a good idea. Fifth, make sure the shifter cables are in good condition. If you have an M400 shift mechanism (two fulcrums on top of the tranny, two shift cables running out of the tunnel, no intermediate rod running from the gearshift lever to the back of the tunnel), the cables are susceptible to heat damage from the front turbo, and run so close to the water pump pulley that they will get damaged if not properly secured in place.
Before you pull the tranny, here are a few things to check. First, check to make sure that the bracket for the gear shift mechanism is firmly bolted to the tunnel, and that the gear shift is firmly bolted to the bracket. Second, adjust all the cables, along with the two fulcrums that mount to the tranny. Be sure to tighten down all the locknuts. Also, make sure the ball ends on the rods that run from the fulcrums to the transmission shift levers aren't binding against each other. Ball ends should be positioned so that the ball part is located in about the same place in each socket, so that if you rotate the threaded rod around its length until one ball end is centered, the other end is centered as well. Third, make sure the fulcrums pivot freely, but don't have a lot of vertical play. Fourth, make sure that the bolt the fulcrums pivot on is tight, but not so tight that the axle is distorted and the fulcrums stick. Using threadlocker on the bolt is a good idea. Fifth, make sure the shifter cables are in good condition. If you have an M400 shift mechanism (two fulcrums on top of the tranny, two shift cables running out of the tunnel, no intermediate rod running from the gearshift lever to the back of the tunnel), the cables are susceptible to heat damage from the front turbo, and run so close to the water pump pulley that they will get damaged if not properly secured in place.
Edited by Jim O. on Thursday 10th June 02:57
hi jimo i will try all you said could it cause a problem lifting the ride height as car was originaly 70 mm from the floor when i bought it and now its at std road settings the engine is also ridgid mounted into the chassi may it help to re mount on rubbers as std to give some movement the problem ive got is not evident if you lift the rear wheels clear of the floor you can run the car up to limiter through the gears with no issues but when car on the ground you struggle above 2500 rpm to change gear checked out clutch no signs of drag ????????????????????
5paulmv said:
hi jimo i will try all you said could it cause a problem lifting the ride height as car was originaly 70 mm from the floor when i bought it and now its at std road settings the engine is also ridgid mounted into the chassi may it help to re mount on rubbers as std to give some movement the problem ive got is not evident if you lift the rear wheels clear of the floor you can run the car up to limiter through the gears with no issues but when car on the ground you struggle above 2500 rpm to change gear checked out clutch no signs of drag ????????????????????
If I'm reading your message correctly, it sounds to me more and more that you either have a gearbox problem, or a clutch problem. How do you know that the clutch isn't dragging? It's very easy for the clutch to drag just a little, so that the input shaft in the transmission is still turning and making shifting difficult, but not enough to move the car. (DANGER - do the following test at your own risk!) Find somewhere safe (like a straight closed road), get above 2500 rpm, press in the clutch, and try to shift. Hold the shifter against the obstruction, and carefully turn off the motor. Don't lock the steering wheel, and you may lose your power brakes, so don't go too fast and be prepared. Does the shifter slide into gear? If it does, it's probably the clutch. Otherwise, it's either the gearbox itself, or the shift linkage. If you went through all the checks and adjustments on the linkage and it's working OK, then it's probably the gearbox. BTW, what gearbox fluid are you using? Is it the proper one specified for this transmission?Neither the ride height nor the solid engine mounts should have anything to do with the shift linkages.
hi jimo gona try what you sugested as brakes arnt servo assisted and stering lock wont come on tried something similar already and when car jammes out of gear at revs when slowing down on revs to about 1500 rpm car pops into gear again so does this sound like clutch drag as never had this experiance before only ever come across slip
hi seem to have hit the problem took out clutch drive plate and found on close inspection with magnifi glass its sheerd 2 of the fingers that hold the sinterd section on hence causing clutch drag just got to put wheels on and run car to be certain and re adjust gear linkage getting good at taking motor out now twice in a week was a long day yesterday 12 hours on the drive but needs must
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