clutch change? help please whats involved

[a1rak]

Gearchange is catching at low speeds and its very difficult to select 1st when stationary. At road speeds the change is ok but feels bulky.
There is no fluid leaks and the pedal feels fine, and no clutch slip even under hard accelleration. Its just the gear selection that is crap. Pressure plate fingers maybe? What do you think?

Will most probably have to change clutch . Whats envolved, I believe you can JUST about change the clutch by moving the gearbox back. Can anyone confirm this and what has to be removed to complete the job? Ive got a 4.5 2001.

Ive got the TVR manual but I think its possible to do the job in an easier way than the manual suggests.

[JensenA]

How about this...................

http://www.thetvrsite.com/engine/4-engine/16-clutc...

[a1rak]

Thanks a million its exactly what I was looking for.

[JensenA]

a1rak said:

Thanks a million its exactly what I was looking for.

Your Welcome

[ancol]

yes you can change clutch by pulling gearbox back i did last year anyway its not too hard tbh the worst part i found was getting the car high enough to access underneath then removed exhausts from cats removed prop shaft, starter gearstick,unbolt cover underneath remove heat shield remove lambdas etc undo box bolts and undo bell housing bolts took me two or three hours cos some of bolts were bloody tight have fun

[arebrec]

JensenA said:

How about this...................

http://www.thetvrsite.com/engine/4-engine/16-clutc...

good to see Marks guide still be used and getting around a bit I see too

[HarryW]

I'd still be tempted to bleed the fluid first to see if it improves if only temporarily, got to be easier than changing the clutch

[Mr Completely]

HarryW said:

I'd still be tempted to bleed the fluid first to see if it improves if only temporarily, got to be easier than changing the clutch

Yeah, I tried that and it lasted perfectly for about 46 gearchanges before it went south again.

Do it now !

I am in exactly the same position here

but I would like to ask the cogniscenti "How the hell do you undo the prop-shaft flange nuts ?" they are cunningly concealed over the chassis support (Brilliant piece of planning there - NOT !)

Is there some sort of swan-necked open-ended spanner for this ?
My rings don't fit (oooeeerrr) and the box I tried to use, to anchor the bolt head, wouldn't fit either. Is there some sort of waisted box for anchoring the bolt head ?

Sorry to steal the thread mine's here

Flange nuts cleverly concealed bhind chassis crossmember



A little closer ...



Me bolts....

Edited by Mr Completely on Wednesday 16th June 10:39

[HarryW]

Mr Completely said:

HarryW said:

I'd still be tempted to bleed the fluid first to see if it improves if only temporarily, got to be easier than changing the clutch

Yeah, I tried that and it lasted perfectly for about 46 gearchanges before it went south again.

Do it now !

I am in exactly the same position here

..............

Maybe I'm being a bit thick here, but if bleeding the clutch fluids improved it then I'd be thinking hydraulics and changes the seals on the master/slave cylinders

[Mr Completely]

HarryW said:

.....Maybe I'm being a bit thick here, but if bleeding the clutch fluids improved it then I'd be thinking hydraulics and changes the seals on the master/slave cylinders

Sorry Harry, I stole the thread here. That is exactly what I'm doing......