A little help from my friends!! almost there!!!
Discussion
Finally got the car back together after engine rebuild and the car is making the right noises but not firing!! After a little investigation I'm sure I have got the plugs the wrong way round for the injectors. so the car isnt firing correctly. Is there any chance that someone can confirm what the corresponding numbers for coils and injectors.
The engine is a 3ltr
Spark plug / coil 1 = Injector No.
Spark plug / coil 2 = Injector No.
Spark plug / coil 3 = Injector No.
Spark plug / coil 4 = Injector No.
Spark plug / coil 5 = Injector No.
Spark plug / coil 6 = Injector No.
Thanks in advance
Nicksy
The engine is a 3ltr
Spark plug / coil 1 = Injector No.
Spark plug / coil 2 = Injector No.
Spark plug / coil 3 = Injector No.
Spark plug / coil 4 = Injector No.
Spark plug / coil 5 = Injector No.
Spark plug / coil 6 = Injector No.
Thanks in advance
Nicksy
ok!
No red face as I had the injectors match the spark plugs so all cool with that! With the crank sensors, on my car the loom has no excess play on the length, there is no way that I can get the top and bottom plugs mixed up!
Any other ideas?
New plugs and all gaps set and then double checked.
Car cranks fine with no fuel, when fuel added you get the slow down with the crank as the ECU is working out what's going on. mixture of normal and black smoke????
Its got to be something simple
Nicksy
No red face as I had the injectors match the spark plugs so all cool with that! With the crank sensors, on my car the loom has no excess play on the length, there is no way that I can get the top and bottom plugs mixed up!
Any other ideas?
New plugs and all gaps set and then double checked.
Car cranks fine with no fuel, when fuel added you get the slow down with the crank as the ECU is working out what's going on. mixture of normal and black smoke????
Its got to be something simple
Nicksy
I'll second the thought about the trigger wheel on the wrong keyway - that seems like an error that is specific to this engine, so if you aren't familiar with the Duratec, you can easily get it wrong. Even our engine builder, who has built hundreds of high performance engines messed this up on the first Duratec engine he built. After I installed it, the engine wouldn't start, we eventually figured out the problem, and I had to pull off the timing chain cover and move the trigger wheel to the other position. If I remember correctly, to find the problem we removed the crank sensor, put the engine at TDC, and while slowly turning the engine with a socket on the crank bolt, counted the number of teeth before the skipped-tooth by watching through the crank sensor hole. Unfortunately, I don't remember what the count is supposed to be, and I don't have any engines handy to check - maybe someone can help here?
Did you do any wiring? Replace any of the connectors, or even remove a connector so you can slide some heat sheathing over the wires? I did this once, got the pins for the crank or cam sensor reversed, and the car wouldn't start...
Did you do any wiring? Replace any of the connectors, or even remove a connector so you can slide some heat sheathing over the wires? I did this once, got the pins for the crank or cam sensor reversed, and the car wouldn't start...
Thanks Jetstream and Jim O!!!
It was a little struggle to get the end plate off, got it all back together and it started on the button. Happy days!!!
Just got a little water leak from under the car to stop and then down to the MOT centre and then we are back on the road. It has been a long time coming, but it’s going to be worth the wait.
See you all very soon, thanks to everyone for your help.
Nicksy

It was a little struggle to get the end plate off, got it all back together and it started on the button. Happy days!!!
Just got a little water leak from under the car to stop and then down to the MOT centre and then we are back on the road. It has been a long time coming, but it’s going to be worth the wait.

See you all very soon, thanks to everyone for your help.
Nicksy
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