Underfloor heating...
Discussion
Considering it for the open plan kitchen/sitting room in an extension. The whole room will be about 4.5 metres wide by about 9 metres so about 40m2, of which most will be new build (the existing part is pine floorboards with void underneath.
I'm redoing the GCH system as well as rewiring. With conventional radiators about 3 or 4 small ones would cover the space and cost would be about:As part of the rest of the GCH replacement I would expect this to come in at £250 to £350.
What sort of figure am I likely to be loking at for wet underfloor heating? 2/3 of it will be new build, so we can set teh screed lower as required, but 1/3 has to deal with floorboards and presumably insulating underneath them. I'd like a seperate control for this room, but nothing too fancy, just a basic digital programmable timer. As a ballpark am I likely to be looking at to get me to a point where I can tile over the floor £500, £1k, £2k???
I'm redoing the GCH system as well as rewiring. With conventional radiators about 3 or 4 small ones would cover the space and cost would be about:As part of the rest of the GCH replacement I would expect this to come in at £250 to £350.
What sort of figure am I likely to be loking at for wet underfloor heating? 2/3 of it will be new build, so we can set teh screed lower as required, but 1/3 has to deal with floorboards and presumably insulating underneath them. I'd like a seperate control for this room, but nothing too fancy, just a basic digital programmable timer. As a ballpark am I likely to be looking at to get me to a point where I can tile over the floor £500, £1k, £2k???
Polypipe do several different ufh systems, dependant on what you want. We've just used the solid board and foam boards in our bungalow, the solid in the kitchen under tiles and the foam in the front room under engineered oak laminate. We've only had chance to try out the kitchen one, but it's lovely.
For new build they do a system that is integrated with the floor screed, go onto www.polypipe.co.uk and check them out.
They do design from working drawings, give them a ring for your local stockist/installer.
Lorraine wanted to keep a radiator in the front room, so we have both.
The cats love it when its on, we get to sit in our chairs! while they sit on the floor.
For new build they do a system that is integrated with the floor screed, go onto www.polypipe.co.uk and check them out.
They do design from working drawings, give them a ring for your local stockist/installer.
Lorraine wanted to keep a radiator in the front room, so we have both.
The cats love it when its on, we get to sit in our chairs! while they sit on the floor.
Are you planning on removing all of the existing radiators and replacing them with underfloor heating or are you wanting to run rads in one part of the house and underfloor heating in the rest?
I ask because getting the two to work together will require careful planning and may not work in your house.
Underfloor systems run at a lower tempurature to rads so combining the two poses problems.
I've outlined a few points for consideration here: http://www.singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/underf...
As for running a wet system over a timber suspended floor. Yes it is possible.
I said it on the other thread and I'll repeat it here. You need to get some independant advice from a competant person.
I ask because getting the two to work together will require careful planning and may not work in your house.
Underfloor systems run at a lower tempurature to rads so combining the two poses problems.
I've outlined a few points for consideration here: http://www.singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/underf...
As for running a wet system over a timber suspended floor. Yes it is possible.
I said it on the other thread and I'll repeat it here. You need to get some independant advice from a competant person.
mk1fan said:
Are you planning on removing all of the existing radiators and replacing them with underfloor heating or are you wanting to run rads in one part of the house and underfloor heating in the rest?
I ask because getting the two to work together will require careful planning and may not work in your house.
Underfloor systems run at a lower tempurature to rads so combining the two poses problems.
I've outlined a few points for consideration here: http://www.singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/underf...
As for running a wet system over a timber suspended floor. Yes it is possible.
I said it on the other thread and I'll repeat it here. You need to get some independant advice from a competant person.
I'll be combining rads with the UFL, so yes, realise from reading around that UFH works with about 40C of water so this will pose an issue. Also having the added complication of a split in the room of new concrete floor and old timber boards is going to add complexity. I'm just trying to get a ballpark figure for this currently, but suspect it's going to be in the 1 to 2k region. I'll get a professional installer in for a chat to get an idea of costs and what's involved as this is likely to go over my budget.I ask because getting the two to work together will require careful planning and may not work in your house.
Underfloor systems run at a lower tempurature to rads so combining the two poses problems.
I've outlined a few points for consideration here: http://www.singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/underf...
As for running a wet system over a timber suspended floor. Yes it is possible.
I said it on the other thread and I'll repeat it here. You need to get some independant advice from a competant person.
JR said:
Why do you want the underfloor heating? If it's for extra space you could replace the rads and timber floor in the existing room with a conc beam and pot floor and extend the underfloor heating into that room as well. The boiler issue may be tricky.
It's not the space. It's a big area opening onto the garden with bifold doors and I want it tiled - so heating these in an economical way is the main aim and no radiators is just an added bonus :-)CIS121 said:
I'll be combining rads with the UFL, so yes, realise from reading around that UFH works with about 40C of water so this will pose an issue. Also having the added complication of a split in the room of new concrete floor and old timber boards is going to add complexity. I'm just trying to get a ballpark figure for this currently, but suspect it's going to be in the 1 to 2k region. I'll get a professional installer in for a chat to get an idea of costs and what's involved as this is likely to go over my budget.
We fitted underfloor heating throughout our barn when we converted it.
Its fantastic, doesn't take long to heat up and gives a nice even warmth through the rooms. We also chose it for our house due to the lack of suitable wall space for radiators in some of the rooms.
I would choose it over a normal radiator system any day if I was putting a heating system into another house I was going to live in.
Its fantastic, doesn't take long to heat up and gives a nice even warmth through the rooms. We also chose it for our house due to the lack of suitable wall space for radiators in some of the rooms.
I would choose it over a normal radiator system any day if I was putting a heating system into another house I was going to live in.
There are various methods of underfloor heating - done properly it is by the far best method - draught free without any obtrusive radiators.
However electric underfloor can be VERY expensive to run, so what you need is water pipes in the concrete. AFAIK the usual method in Europe is to fit pipes in a thin concrete screed, this provides quick response times when using gas, but there is little in the way of energy storage.
In New Zealand water pipes are fitted in a four inch concrete slab, as this can store a lot of energy we can use a hot water heat pump run during the day. The heat pump puts five or six times the amount of energy into the slab as it uses in running.
With the relative costs and colder day temperatures in the UK air sourced heat pumps may not cost much less to run than using gas but here they are very effective.
However electric underfloor can be VERY expensive to run, so what you need is water pipes in the concrete. AFAIK the usual method in Europe is to fit pipes in a thin concrete screed, this provides quick response times when using gas, but there is little in the way of energy storage.
In New Zealand water pipes are fitted in a four inch concrete slab, as this can store a lot of energy we can use a hot water heat pump run during the day. The heat pump puts five or six times the amount of energy into the slab as it uses in running.
With the relative costs and colder day temperatures in the UK air sourced heat pumps may not cost much less to run than using gas but here they are very effective.
We've replaced all our floorboards with 1" thick plywood. Can wet underfloor heating be installed on top of this? We kind of discounted it as research suggests the pipes have to be put under the plywood (between the joists) and the 1" + thickness of the wood flooring would make it too thick for the flooring to be effective.
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