Are you a weatherer?

[rhinochopig]

It's been a long while since I've picked up scalpel - sadly a degree in ID killed off my love of scratch and kit building.

Anyhow, I love this part of the forum and enjoy reading about member's projects. However, there seems to be two camps - concours and weathered. Which are you?

For me, a *good* model should reflect an operational version of the object you are trying to realise - could be used as a miniature on a film. Obviously this is just MO.

What are your views?

[dr_gn]

I used to aim for concours (for both cars and all types of aircraft), but am now a tentative weatherer.

Concours is much easier and requires far less skill than effective weathering (which I still haven't got the hang of). It is very easy to ruin a good model by getting weathering wrong, but I couldn't accept churning out the same standard of finish after seeing the superb weathering efforts of others on modelling forums.

Edited by dr_gn on Wednesday 23 June 22:23

[SlipStream77]

I think it depends on the subject, I like to see military aircraft that look like they have been working. However, if I was building a 250GTO for example, I would probably not make it look like it had just completed Le Mans.

Tanks are subjects that most need weathering IMO, aircraft seem to be kept pretty clean generally but armour is usually muddy/dusty/scratched.

I'm new to weathering, the most I have attempted so far is a dark wash to make a white undercarriage look 'used'. I might invest in some pastels sometime.

[kenny Chim 4]

It most definitely depends on the subject. I'm primarily a figure painter and, as the bulk of those that I model are based on military characters throughout history, nearly all get weathered.

With regards to vehicles, I honestly would feel that a Tamiya rally car or tank would not look complete without at least a smattering of mud/dirt on it. This can best be applied with an airbrush but good results can also be achieved by simply flicking pigment from an old toothbrush directly on to the bodywork (use masking tape half-circles to ensure the window wiper sweep remains clear!).

In the end, it's all down to how much detail you wish to apply to your project. For example, I bought, cleaned up and fixed this 1/3 scale vampire some time ago: http://www.ahauntedgallery.com/alex1.html
However, unlike that artist, I wish to depict it as more 'realistic'.

Click to enlarge the first photo. I've found that large carnivore teeth are always a shade of light orange- think big cats- and not pure dentine white. Also, I wish to detail the produced veins by hi-lighting them with a diluted blue/green and underscoring them with a darker shade of the admittedly very pale flesh tone. The idea being to emphasise them but still make them appear to be under the 'skin'.

I am glad you have introduced this subject again as I'm always interested in other modelers opinions with regards to how far to weather- if at all!

[dr_gn]

kenny Chim 4 said:

It most definitely depends on the subject.

It also depends on what you define "weathering" as: I used to build 1/20 Tamiya F1 cars, and was happy with them in 'pristine' form. By this I mean solid colours on all individual components. At first glance this seems perfectly reasonable, since F1 cars are frequently cleaned, and more often then not comprise brand new components. However, if I were to build one now, I would definitely try some Alclad on the exhausts, and introduce some 'blueing' around the joints rather than just leave them overall silver. Similarly with the main mechanical castings: I would add a light wash to emphisise the strengthening ribs and other moulded details.

Not true "weathering" I guess, but even so, very tricky to get right.

[kenny Chim 4]

dr_gn, yes, it is in my opinion weathering re colouring exhausts etc. and using a wash to emphasise bolts on engine blocks and similar components. This has to be encouraged.

In my youth, I successfully replicated the discolouration on a bike exhaust by carefully using a combination of Tamiya clear blue and red applied to a silver base.

Back then the critical weathering 'paint' was Timiya Smoke. Now though, I use a white spirit diluted Burnt Umber oil paint wash.

[drivin_me_nuts]

See some of the stuff on the RMWeb forum and especially http://www.nevard.com/modelrailway/

being able to do it well is a real gift

[Yertis]

drivin_me_nuts said:

See some of the stuff on the RMWeb forum and especially http://www.nevard.com/modelrailway/

being able to do it well is a real gift

scalefour.org is good for that too.

I used to be very pro weathering in my models, but now I'm not so sure. If your model is a "snapshot" of the real thing at a particular point in its existence, then it could be either pristine factory fresh, or covered in muck and all scratched and battered. Both equally valid IMO.

If I were to make a model of my own Quattro, which I'm considering, should I make it just before or just after I've washed it?

I'm making a model of my brother's Audi 90q at the moment, but I've cocked up the paintwork so it's going to be weathered, which is OK in this case because I think he's washed it about once in ten years.

[dr_gn]

Yertis said:

drivin_me_nuts said:

See some of the stuff on the RMWeb forum and especially http://www.nevard.com/modelrailway/

being able to do it well is a real gift

If your model is a "snapshot" of the real thing at a particular point in its existence, then it could be either pristine factory fresh, or covered in muck and all scratched and battered. Both equally valid IMO.

Unless it was partially re-painted half way through its life as was/is the case with many military aircraft (D-Day stripes, identification bands, makeshift camo etc).

[Yertis]

dr_gn said:

Yertis said:

drivin_me_nuts said:

See some of the stuff on the RMWeb forum and especially http://www.nevard.com/modelrailway/

being able to do it well is a real gift

If your model is a "snapshot" of the real thing at a particular point in its existence, then it could be either pristine factory fresh, or covered in muck and all scratched and battered. Both equally valid IMO.

Unless it was partially re-painted half way through its life as was/is the case with many military aircraft (D-Day stripes, identification bands, makeshift camo etc).

I should have written "or any state of repair in between"

[dr_gn]

Yertis said:

dr_gn said:

Yertis said:

drivin_me_nuts said:

See some of the stuff on the RMWeb forum and especially http://www.nevard.com/modelrailway/

being able to do it well is a real gift

If your model is a "snapshot" of the real thing at a particular point in its existence, then it could be either pristine factory fresh, or covered in muck and all scratched and battered. Both equally valid IMO.

Unless it was partially re-painted half way through its life as was/is the case with many military aircraft (D-Day stripes, identification bands, makeshift camo etc).

I should have written "or any state of repair in between"

My current build is supposed to represent an Me/Bf 109 (which had already had a bit of previous). The squadron in question were noted for their use of non-standard camo patterns applied in the field. This then had a red band painted around the nose (obscuring the squadron emblem), which in turn was overpainted - in the field - with white, all over the nose/engine cover and rudder. By the time it crashed in Kent during the BoB, it was a combination of old stsandard camo, moderately weathered field applied camo and chipped and dirty white paint, over a partially covered red band. Nightmare.

[steveo3002]

i always sandpaper the tyres for a used effect , and sand the bottom edge flat so they look a bit saggy , real tyres are never that hard that the bottom doesnt sag

[slomax]

I only weather my N gauge railway. If you use a blade and some earthy/rusty colour chalks and scrape some dust off you can do some lovely things with a paint brush. Then a quick go over with a bit of hair spray and the jobs a gud'n.

[kenny Chim 4]

Absolutely right.

I doubt that there's a rail track anywhere in the world where each side of the individual rail is not showing surface rust (well, perhaps with the exception of some underground lines).

It just looks so odd to see pristine, silver tracks on some layouts without this russet weathering.

But, using chalks to create the effect, whilst commendable- doesn't the hairspray application simply blow the powder away?

[Skii]

It really does depend on the subject, but on the whole I find the process of adding a bit of wear and tear to a model a very satifying and enjoyable process.

I'm working on an Su-27UB jet at the moment in the Russian Knights markings, the real jet shows extensive weathering as well as shiny (in places) and bright paintjob which I'm really going to town with - the nose cone and vertical stabilisers are done with genuine paint chipping, whereas the leading edge chipping is painted on with citadel silver paint and a fine brush - all good fun

Edited by Skii on Thursday 1st July 14:20

[rhinochopig]

Skii said:

It really does depend on the subject, but on the whole I find the process of adding a bit of wear and tear to a model a very satifying and enjoyable process.

I'm working on an Su-27UB jet at the moment in the Russian Knights markings, the real jet shows extensive weathering as well as shiny (in places) and bright paintjob which I'm really going to town with - the nose cone and vertical stabilisers are done with genuine paint chipping, whereas the leading edge chipping is painted on with citadel silver paint and a fine brush - all good fun

Edited by Skii on Thursday 1st July 14:20

Nice model

[dr_gn]

Skii said:

It really does depend on the subject, but on the whole I find the process of adding a bit of wear and tear to a model a very satifying and enjoyable process.

I'm working on an Su-27UB jet at the moment in the Russian Knights markings, the real jet shows extensive weathering as well as shiny (in places) and bright paintjob which I'm really going to town with - the nose cone and vertical stabilisers are done with genuine paint chipping, whereas the leading edge chipping is painted on with citadel silver paint and a fine brush - all good fun

Edited by Skii on Thursday 1st July 14:20

Outstanding work as usual.