Getting the right fit for a roadie
Discussion
I've been looking at the idea of a road bike, sometime in the near future. The Boardman's have really caught my eye - decent frame, good looking and top equipment. I'm 5'8, with a 29" inside leg and generally proportional build (I dont have monkey arms etc). I tried a small frame which is a 50cm, with a 54cm top tube. The medium is a 53cm with a 55.5cm top tube and a longer head stem.
On the small, I can get the seat a couple of inches above the bars on the stems highest setting but on the medium they are about level. I found that the medium felt like a bit of stretch to the bars but then I am comparing it to my mountain bike.
Do I need to be stretched out across a road frame?
My MTB is a really old one with flat bars so its more like hybrid geometry.
The Halfords bod said the medium looked a better fit, but then I didnt really trust his judgement as he didnt really know what he was talking about when I was asking him about certain things
On the small, I can get the seat a couple of inches above the bars on the stems highest setting but on the medium they are about level. I found that the medium felt like a bit of stretch to the bars but then I am comparing it to my mountain bike.
Do I need to be stretched out across a road frame?
My MTB is a really old one with flat bars so its more like hybrid geometry.
The Halfords bod said the medium looked a better fit, but then I didnt really trust his judgement as he didnt really know what he was talking about when I was asking him about certain things
At 5'8'' I'd be looking at a 52cm really, so in between the two. Obviously it depends on your body shape though, the only way to know is to test the bike!
The way to fit is like this, and bear in mind this is an oversimplification but is a good starting point.
adjust the saddle height until with the pedal at the bottom of your stroke your leg is slightly bent.
Having done that, get someone to hold the bike up for you as you put both feet on the pedals and sit on the seat. Put your hands on the brake lever hoods and look down at the front wheel axle. It should be hidden behind the handlebars from your point of view. If it's in front, then the top tube is too short, and if it's behind the top tube is too long.
Bear in mind this can be adjusted with a different length stem.
The seat can also be moved front and back, although this should be done to tune the angle of your hips over the bottom bracket.
The best thing to do is to get an experienced bike shop to help you with fit, but remember that frame sizing varies from brand to brand.
The way to fit is like this, and bear in mind this is an oversimplification but is a good starting point.
adjust the saddle height until with the pedal at the bottom of your stroke your leg is slightly bent.
Having done that, get someone to hold the bike up for you as you put both feet on the pedals and sit on the seat. Put your hands on the brake lever hoods and look down at the front wheel axle. It should be hidden behind the handlebars from your point of view. If it's in front, then the top tube is too short, and if it's behind the top tube is too long.
Bear in mind this can be adjusted with a different length stem.
The seat can also be moved front and back, although this should be done to tune the angle of your hips over the bottom bracket.
The best thing to do is to get an experienced bike shop to help you with fit, but remember that frame sizing varies from brand to brand.
I am 5'11" and 32" inside leg and the medium fits me perfectly. My wife is 5'4" and 31" inside leg and has the small frame.
It took a few short rides for our bikes to feel spot on but this was achieved just with saddle movement. I'm sure a pro fitting would get it even better but we are comfortable on hard 3 hour rides so that's good enough.
I would think your starting point would be the small, possibly with a stem extension.
This fitting advise above is spot on.
It took a few short rides for our bikes to feel spot on but this was achieved just with saddle movement. I'm sure a pro fitting would get it even better but we are comfortable on hard 3 hour rides so that's good enough.
I would think your starting point would be the small, possibly with a stem extension.
This fitting advise above is spot on.
For detailed initial sizing, you can go to
http://www.competitivecyclist.com/
Get to the page where you put in all of your measurements and they send you a complete spec on your bike, in the case of the road bikes, they send you three different fits as well.
http://www.competitivecyclist.com/
Get to the page where you put in all of your measurements and they send you a complete spec on your bike, in the case of the road bikes, they send you three different fits as well.
try this.
ask for a hex key. loosen the seat. turn the seat round so its facing the wrong way, tighten it back up, then turn the seat post round so the seat faces the right way.
it will look odd but its actually very comfy and it pitches you an inch or so further forward as some road bikes use a seat post with a long layback. i find riding like this quite comfy and it also brings your body more upright so breathing is a bit easier.
ask for a hex key. loosen the seat. turn the seat round so its facing the wrong way, tighten it back up, then turn the seat post round so the seat faces the right way.
it will look odd but its actually very comfy and it pitches you an inch or so further forward as some road bikes use a seat post with a long layback. i find riding like this quite comfy and it also brings your body more upright so breathing is a bit easier.
Rob13 said:
I've been looking at the idea of a road bike, sometime in the near future. The Boardman's have really caught my eye - decent frame, good looking and top equipment. I'm 5'8, with a 29" inside leg and generally proportional build (I dont have monkey arms etc). I tried a small frame which is a 50cm, with a 54cm top tube. The medium is a 53cm with a 55.5cm top tube and a longer head stem.
You have the same proportions as me (short legs, normal size body), but I have 30" inseam. I ride a 52cm CAAD9 and it fits perfectly. The 54 was too big and the 50cm was too small and it felt cramped.Rob13 said:
On the small, I can get the seat a couple of inches above the bars on the stems highest setting but on the medium they are about level. I found that the medium felt like a bit of stretch to the bars but then I am comparing it to my mountain bike. Do I need to be stretched out across a road frame?
Ignore the standover height / saddle height, and concentrate on getting the correct size toptube and reach to the bars. I'd suggest you try out a 52cm bike even if it means going to a different manufacturer. And yes you will be more stretched out on the road bike compared to your MTB, it's done for wind resistance.And good advice for the competetivecyclist fit calculator, it's good to get all the figures down and then you can tailor your fit around that. Remember that stems, seatposts and bars can be changed to make small adjustments here and there but the frame has to be the right size in the first place otherwise you will just get sick of it and stop riding.
TL:DR - go and ride a whole bunch of 52cm bikes until you find one you really like.
The guy in halfords is wrong telling you you need a medium.Is your inside leg your pant inseam?If so your body dimensions are identical to mine.You should be concentrating on the reach which is top tube and seat angle which affects the reach to the bars.Stackheight which is the length of the headtubelength plus topcap and spacers(this determines bar drop/height.)I particularly like the Boardman range as well as they are excellent value for money.I would never consider a medium in your height as i think its too big.Check out http://www.roadcyclinguk.com/forum/forummessages.a... Small would be the way to go look at what the people our height had to say in the other forum.
Rob I built custom frames for many years and road raced ,the old steel frames you would have a 54cm frame but the fashion now is to have lots of seat pin showing,I suggest the smaller frame.Off the shelf bikes always come with short stems so this can be changed at a later date when you get more used to the bike.A comfy position is the fastest position over distance so dont be to stretched out
pablo said:
try this.
ask for a hex key. loosen the seat. turn the seat round so its facing the wrong way, tighten it back up, then turn the seat post round so the seat faces the right way.
it will look odd but its actually very comfy and it pitches you an inch or so further forward as some road bikes use a seat post with a long layback. i find riding like this quite comfy and it also brings your body more upright so breathing is a bit easier.
Wow.. this is just messed up.. Actually DONT do this. Seat pins can be had with zero setback, but if you get the right frame size from the go, with a custom fitted stem length, you will be set to go.ask for a hex key. loosen the seat. turn the seat round so its facing the wrong way, tighten it back up, then turn the seat post round so the seat faces the right way.
it will look odd but its actually very comfy and it pitches you an inch or so further forward as some road bikes use a seat post with a long layback. i find riding like this quite comfy and it also brings your body more upright so breathing is a bit easier.
Also, I would try to find a better bike store if the idiots arent even suggesting a finetune of stemlength. Any good bikestore will always swap stems free of charge after a few rides.
Withe regards to amount of pin showing, alot of frames are sloping geometry (as in toptube slopes slightly) thus show alot of seatpost. With classic geometry frames the toptubes are horizontal and therefore compromises standover height. Well it shouldnt really as you sort out stem and seatpost layback to get the fit correct.
Edited by LRdriver II on Friday 2nd July 07:39
From what I recall of Boardman sizes you are in between.
You can sort out both reach and handlebar drop with a stem change/flip.
The smaller one will feel racier, i.e. more agile/less stable. Handlebars may be lower, but you can use a more rearward seat position which will take the load off your arms and back.
A lot depends on your structural fitness (core strength & flexibility). If you can't touch your toes easily maybe avoid the smaller size.
You can sort out both reach and handlebar drop with a stem change/flip.
The smaller one will feel racier, i.e. more agile/less stable. Handlebars may be lower, but you can use a more rearward seat position which will take the load off your arms and back.
A lot depends on your structural fitness (core strength & flexibility). If you can't touch your toes easily maybe avoid the smaller size.
you should choose on what fits and looks right when sitting on it a small frame wont feel any racier unless it has different goemetry.Putting a longer stem only works up to a certain point,as a base the smaller frame is correct for a 28 inside leg.Seat and head angles on most off the shelf frames change every 2"
itsnotarace said:
Rob13 said:
I've been looking at the idea of a road bike, sometime in the near future. The Boardman's have really caught my eye - decent frame, good looking and top equipment. I'm 5'8, with a 29" inside leg and generally proportional build (I dont have monkey arms etc). I tried a small frame which is a 50cm, with a 54cm top tube. The medium is a 53cm with a 55.5cm top tube and a longer head stem.
You have the same proportions as me (short legs, normal size body), but I have 30" inseam. I ride a 52cm CAAD9 and it fits perfectly. The 54 was too big and the 50cm was too small and it felt cramped.Rob13 said:
On the small, I can get the seat a couple of inches above the bars on the stems highest setting but on the medium they are about level. I found that the medium felt like a bit of stretch to the bars but then I am comparing it to my mountain bike. Do I need to be stretched out across a road frame?
Ignore the standover height / saddle height, and concentrate on getting the correct size toptube and reach to the bars. I'd suggest you try out a 52cm bike even if it means going to a different manufacturer. And yes you will be more stretched out on the road bike compared to your MTB, it's done for wind resistance.And good advice for the competetivecyclist fit calculator, it's good to get all the figures down and then you can tailor your fit around that. Remember that stems, seatposts and bars can be changed to make small adjustments here and there but the frame has to be the right size in the first place otherwise you will just get sick of it and stop riding.
TL:DR - go and ride a whole bunch of 52cm bikes until you find one you really like.
I'd always prefer a slightly undersize to a slightly oversize road frame.
The geometry on the Boardman is more race bike than sportive bike so having the bars a few inches lower than your saddle is right. I think they still offer carbon sportive bikes from Carrera and Viner for £1k if you want a more 'sit up and beg' position.
It will feel nice and chuckable compared to a bike that's slightly too big and you can always buy a slightly longer looking stem at a later date (I wouldn't automatically expect Halfords to have an equivilant longer stem in to swap - they're not a road shop).
The geometry on the Boardman is more race bike than sportive bike so having the bars a few inches lower than your saddle is right. I think they still offer carbon sportive bikes from Carrera and Viner for £1k if you want a more 'sit up and beg' position.
It will feel nice and chuckable compared to a bike that's slightly too big and you can always buy a slightly longer looking stem at a later date (I wouldn't automatically expect Halfords to have an equivilant longer stem in to swap - they're not a road shop).
mrandy said:
you should choose on what fits and looks right when sitting on it a small frame wont feel any racier unless it has different goemetry.Putting a longer stem only works up to a certain point,as a base the smaller frame is correct for a 28 inside leg.Seat and head angles on most off the shelf frames change every 2"
I hate to argue with a framebuilder, but surely the smaller bike with the longer stem has the rider weight further forward, and also has a shorter wheelbase?remember that "bike fitting" is not all about just comfort.
A good fitting can improve your endurance, power and speed as well as reducing aches and pains.
Khushy
PS - if you do get a Boardman - once purchased, IMMEDIATELY take it to a proper bicycle shop and have them put it together properly - their "assembly" can sometimes be SHOCKING!
Khush
A good fitting can improve your endurance, power and speed as well as reducing aches and pains.
Khushy
PS - if you do get a Boardman - once purchased, IMMEDIATELY take it to a proper bicycle shop and have them put it together properly - their "assembly" can sometimes be SHOCKING!
Khush
HundredthIdiot said:
mrandy said:
you should choose on what fits and looks right when sitting on it a small frame wont feel any racier unless it has different goemetry.Putting a longer stem only works up to a certain point,as a base the smaller frame is correct for a 28 inside leg.Seat and head angles on most off the shelf frames change every 2"
I hate to argue with a framebuilder, but surely the smaller bike with the longer stem has the rider weight further forward, and also has a shorter wheelbase?The road pros ride very shallow angle frames almost like touring bikes, comfort is the most important factor when choosing a road bike
Anyhow Rob let us know how you get on
frame geometry and fit has changed alot in the last ten years.Given frame sizes for one manufacturer say a 52cm might be very different to another.The only true way of comparing modern compact design frames nowadays, is to measure the effective top tube length(horizontal)& a seat angle which will both give a reach and lastly headtube length including headset top cap and spacers.This is only the true way of comparing frames now.The shorter the headtube the lower the bars under the saddle wiil be.Lastly alot as other posters have mentioned it all boils down to what you want to do ,if you are going to race going small will be better and if you are flexible too makes a difference, with the bars in a lower position.Measuring seattubes and given frame sizes is meaningless.As it doesnt give you the information you need to choose a frame.
Edited by peter caro on Saturday 3rd July 07:25
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