S type R or XK8 for reliability?
Discussion
If you do a search on here you might find something on the STR and a lot on the XK8.
In general terms you will find the 4.0 XK8 has a few potential engine issues if not already sorted by its previous owners. The 4.2 solves many of these.
Dont know much or seen much about STR, but given the 4.2 engine the 4.0 issues should be sorted. Brakes probably Brembo's - expensive at Jag dealer using jag parts. The STR I would be more expensive to run, service, insure I would expect.
In terms of the XK8 the Jaguar World book (150 pages £7.99 currently at WH Smiths) provides the most up to date review of the models, buyers guides , mods etc. The club/forum to join is the XKEC
Having had both the S type (but not R) and XKR they are very different cars from a practicality and feel point of view.
In general terms you will find the 4.0 XK8 has a few potential engine issues if not already sorted by its previous owners. The 4.2 solves many of these.
Dont know much or seen much about STR, but given the 4.2 engine the 4.0 issues should be sorted. Brakes probably Brembo's - expensive at Jag dealer using jag parts. The STR I would be more expensive to run, service, insure I would expect.
In terms of the XK8 the Jaguar World book (150 pages £7.99 currently at WH Smiths) provides the most up to date review of the models, buyers guides , mods etc. The club/forum to join is the XKEC
Having had both the S type (but not R) and XKR they are very different cars from a practicality and feel point of view.
The V8 engine was introduced with the XK8 and XJ8 in 1997. Some early examples suffered from Nicasil bore coating errosion due to a combination of short trips combined with the use of high sulphur fuel. The Sulphur content of fuel was reduced in Jan 2000 and Jaguar revised the engine in the same year and fitted steel liners along with a revised waterpump and secondary timing chain tensioners. Several engines were changed under warranty for the later steel lined type and even if you find a Nicasil lined engine in an early car the chances are if it's survived the 10 years since high Sulphur fuel dissapeared from the forecourt it'll go on until old age or neglect kills it.
It's essential to change even the revised secondary timing chain tensioners for the third generation metal bodied type as any plastic bodied tensioner may fail and cut down the 10k mile service intevall to somthing like 7/8k if you want the engine to last. You'll also need to ensure the later design of waterpump is fitted as well as the early ones tend to loose the impellers. Look inside the header tank with the engine cold and at modest rpm, and you should see a flow of coolant through the tank.
Gearboxes and 'diffs are "sealed for life" and no oil changes are called for in the service schedule. Lots of them have failed at even quite modest mileages to lubrication breakdown, so it's important to have the oil changed on a semi-regular basis in both components - it can be done although it's a tricky procedure and the transmission oil is expensive - but still much cheaper than a new gearbox.
Jaguars are heavy cars and driven hard will eat fuel, tyres, brakes and suspension components. On the other hand, looked after, well maintained and driven sensibily most late 90's onward cars should see 100k or more without any significant grief, and return over mid 20's MPG too.
It's essential to change even the revised secondary timing chain tensioners for the third generation metal bodied type as any plastic bodied tensioner may fail and cut down the 10k mile service intevall to somthing like 7/8k if you want the engine to last. You'll also need to ensure the later design of waterpump is fitted as well as the early ones tend to loose the impellers. Look inside the header tank with the engine cold and at modest rpm, and you should see a flow of coolant through the tank.
Gearboxes and 'diffs are "sealed for life" and no oil changes are called for in the service schedule. Lots of them have failed at even quite modest mileages to lubrication breakdown, so it's important to have the oil changed on a semi-regular basis in both components - it can be done although it's a tricky procedure and the transmission oil is expensive - but still much cheaper than a new gearbox.
Jaguars are heavy cars and driven hard will eat fuel, tyres, brakes and suspension components. On the other hand, looked after, well maintained and driven sensibily most late 90's onward cars should see 100k or more without any significant grief, and return over mid 20's MPG too.
cerbielee said:
Cheers for that Steve, the more info i can get the better! do i look inside the header tank with cap off??????? or is that stupid??
Cheers again,
ATB Lee
Cheers again,
ATB Lee
OK to do from a cold start, but FFS don't take the cap off when the engine is warm - you'll see a little turbulence in the coolant with some revs on if the pump is OK. Hopefully the coolant will be the Jaguar long life one - bright orange in colour. Take off the oil filler cap with the engine idling and hot. You want to see little or no internal pressure in the engine, any heavy fuming or excess pressure suggests an overdue oil change or blocked part throttle breather at best or excessive piston blowby at worst. You should see bright clean metal inside the filler cap and on the dipstick, heavy orange or brown tarry deposits indicate lack of maintainence in the past.
Any gearbox over 60k on its original oil fill is on borrowed time - the supercharged cars have a different gearbox but the same still applies - get an oil change done. Oil for the non supercharged cars is expensive - around £8/litre. Same applies to the 'dff. 60k service is a big expense across the range, plugs are expensive too and if you buy a 3.0 S Type the inlet manifold has to come off to change them. Plenty of independents and after market parts suppliers serve the Jaguar market 'tho, you're not stuck with your local main stealer for maintainence.
Secondary timing chain tensioners on the v8 are a weak spot. They should be changed for the later metal bodied type even if they look OK. Often this is all that's needed and can be done for around £400, but some garages insist on changing the whole timing chain set at a cost of up to £1200 or so.
Look for uneven front tyre wear, that's a symptom of worn bushes, any odd clunks or thumps from the suspension needs investigating - some parts are expensive, look for stone chips on the nose of an XK they are very succecptable to damage, drivers seats tend to suffer from wear, S Type header tanks can split. XKs suffer from floorpan corrosion, XJs rot round the wheel arches and front subframe mounts, S Types are pretty good rust wise.
Check out Honest John and Warranty Direct for more info.
Generally Ford era Jaguars are pretty reliable, but with any older car it's essential to do your research and buy the very best well cared for example you can find. Buying and running a neglected one on the cheap usually ends in tears.
Jaguar steve said:
cerbielee said:
Cheers for that Steve, the more info i can get the better! do i look inside the header tank with cap off??????? or is that stupid??
Cheers again,
ATB Lee
Cheers again,
ATB Lee
OK to do from a cold start, but FFS don't take the cap off when the engine is warm - you'll see a little turbulence in the coolant with some revs on if the pump is OK. Hopefully the coolant will be the Jaguar long life one - bright orange in colour. Take off the oil filler cap with the engine idling and hot. You want to see little or no internal pressure in the engine, any heavy fuming or excess pressure suggests an overdue oil change or blocked part throttle breather at best or excessive piston blowby at worst. You should see bright clean metal inside the filler cap and on the dipstick, heavy orange or brown tarry deposits indicate lack of maintainence in the past.
Any gearbox over 60k on its original oil fill is on borrowed time - the supercharged cars have a different gearbox but the same still applies - get an oil change done. Oil for the non supercharged cars is expensive - around £8/litre. Same applies to the 'dff. 60k service is a big expense across the range, plugs are expensive too and if you buy a 3.0 S Type the inlet manifold has to come off to change them. Plenty of independents and after market parts suppliers serve the Jaguar market 'tho, you're not stuck with your local main stealer for maintainence.
Secondary timing chain tensioners on the v8 are a weak spot. They should be changed for the later metal bodied type even if they look OK. Often this is all that's needed and can be done for around £400, but some garages insist on changing the whole timing chain set at a cost of up to £1200 or so.
Look for uneven front tyre wear, that's a symptom of worn bushes, any odd clunks or thumps from the suspension needs investigating - some parts are expensive, look for stone chips on the nose of an XK they are very succecptable to damage, drivers seats tend to suffer from wear, S Type header tanks can split. XKs suffer from floorpan corrosion, XJs rot round the wheel arches and front subframe mounts, S Types are pretty good rust wise.
Check out Honest John and Warranty Direct for more info.
Generally Ford era Jaguars are pretty reliable, but with any older car it's essential to do your research and buy the very best well cared for example you can find. Buying and running a neglected one on the cheap usually ends in tears.
Thanks again Steve
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