Grinding feel through steering wheel? Mondeo ST220
Discussion
I am getting a grinding / grating feel through the steering wheel of my ST220 (6 speed), at speeds of 40mph upwards.
There is also an intermittent steering wobble, it literally comes and comes when it wants. but the grinding is quite noticeable, especially at motorway speeds on smooth roads. There is also a slight bearing noise which the tempo increases with speed, as does the grinding.
I have replaced all the wheel bearings and the discs incase but to no affect, so I’m thinking perhaps the CV joints are worn and I can feel resistance through the wheel?
There is also an intermittent steering wobble, it literally comes and comes when it wants. but the grinding is quite noticeable, especially at motorway speeds on smooth roads. There is also a slight bearing noise which the tempo increases with speed, as does the grinding.
I have replaced all the wheel bearings and the discs incase but to no affect, so I’m thinking perhaps the CV joints are worn and I can feel resistance through the wheel?
Random noises/vibrations etc. can be hard to diagnose, especially without hearing them. CV joints will often make more noise if cornering, but not always so yes it could be a CV joint. I've had problems with engine mounts causing the sort of vibrations & noise that I think you may be describing so I would check those (especially the gear box mount) before spending any money on other things.
Recently I had an awful couple of weeks tracking down a noise on my van which turned out to be a new wheel bearing that started clicking only when hot about a month after being installed, but I take it that you changed the bearings because of your noise so the noise was there before & after?
ETA. I wouldn't have thought that the steering wobble is related to the noise, unles you have a loose wheel or something similar.
Recently I had an awful couple of weeks tracking down a noise on my van which turned out to be a new wheel bearing that started clicking only when hot about a month after being installed, but I take it that you changed the bearings because of your noise so the noise was there before & after?
ETA. I wouldn't have thought that the steering wobble is related to the noise, unles you have a loose wheel or something similar.

Edited by 109 Bob on Saturday 3rd July 09:02
I'll come clean and say I replaced the wheel bearings a few months ago, so yes one could be failing again, however I'll also be honest and say the grinding only came as a result of the front brakes smoking badly after a nice sunday drive. Perhaps the heat has boiled the grease in the hub or the CV joint, hence the roughness? The question is, if so, how do I tell what component its coming from!

BliarOut said:
What colour is your PAS fluid?
Dirty dark colour.*Al* said:
Poor wearing tyres? feathered tyres can cause noise.
All tyres are wearing perfectly.finlo said:
Try oiling the steering column bush where it passes through the bulkhead.
These dry out and groan/grind and were the subject of a TSB a few years ago HTH.
Already done it These dry out and groan/grind and were the subject of a TSB a few years ago HTH.

Dirty and dark is a sign that the seals could be failing in the rack, or the flexible pipes are breaking down internally as PAS fluid doesn't discolour in use.
You can do a rough and ready change using a turkey baster drawing the old fluid up through the reservoir. Use and repeat till it's clean. If you find detritus in the old fluid it may be a sign that a rebuild is due at some point. There are some companies I would suggest you avoid but I can't name them due to PH name and shame rules.
Kiley Clinton in Birmingham however are excellent should you need a recon.
You can do a rough and ready change using a turkey baster drawing the old fluid up through the reservoir. Use and repeat till it's clean. If you find detritus in the old fluid it may be a sign that a rebuild is due at some point. There are some companies I would suggest you avoid but I can't name them due to PH name and shame rules.
Kiley Clinton in Birmingham however are excellent should you need a recon.
BigMonk said:
I'll come clean and say I replaced the wheel bearings a few months ago, so yes one could be failing again, however I'll also be honest and say the grinding only came as a result of the front brakes smoking badly after a nice sunday drive. Perhaps the heat has boiled the grease in the hub or the CV joint, hence the roughness? The question is, if so, how do I tell what component its coming from!
Very possibly heat related, the first thing I would do is check the bearings. Go for a drive & while still hot jack the front up & take off wheel, calliper & disc so that you can spin the bearing by hand free of any interference. Turn the bearing by hand & feel for any roughness, the bearing should feel smooth when you turn it, so any clicks or roughness is a good indication the bearing is naff. Obviously be careful when working with hot metal parts. 
Also to test a bearing you can jack one front corner off the ground, get in & with all windows closed start the car, put it in 4th or 5th & let the clutch out so in essence you are driving with one wheel off the ground, accelerate until the speedo reads 40 mph & listen for any bearing noises, when finished lower that corner & do the same with the other front wheel.
I prefer the first method personally but it wouldn't harm to try spinning the wheels up as in method two first.
Edited by 109 Bob on Saturday 3rd July 10:58
BliarOut said:
Dirty and dark is a sign that the seals could be failing in the rack, or the flexible pipes are breaking down internally as PAS fluid doesn't discolour in use.
I appreciate what you’re saying, but it’s always been dark for as long as I can remember, and I’ve checked my works pool Mondeos and they are all the same. I can’t see them all being faulty.BigMonk said:
BliarOut said:
Dirty and dark is a sign that the seals could be failing in the rack, or the flexible pipes are breaking down internally as PAS fluid doesn't discolour in use.
I appreciate what you’re saying, but it’s always been dark for as long as I can remember, and I’ve checked my works pool Mondeos and they are all the same. I can’t see them all being faulty.
Does your car have external UJ's? They're a good candidate for steering stiffness and graunching.And that's why I know which companies to avoid!
This is a well known common problem and dealt with free by Ford under a TSB, (number elludes me!) Basically, the poster who suggested oiling and greasing the column near the bulkhead is dead right, that's what they do and it cures this well known problem. What age and how many miles is it, mine did it at about 80k and 5 years old.
I fixed it myself, it took about 20 mins, but the dealer offered to do it FOC......wanted to charge until I mentioned the TSB and he looked it up, then was free!
If your dealer doesnt knwo about it, get a new dealer. Mondeo Enthusiast's Group online will provide more detailed info, I'm sure. ('MEG')
I fixed it myself, it took about 20 mins, but the dealer offered to do it FOC......wanted to charge until I mentioned the TSB and he looked it up, then was free!
If your dealer doesnt knwo about it, get a new dealer. Mondeo Enthusiast's Group online will provide more detailed info, I'm sure. ('MEG')
BliarOut said:
BigMonk said:
BliarOut said:
Dirty and dark is a sign that the seals could be failing in the rack, or the flexible pipes are breaking down internally as PAS fluid doesn't discolour in use.
I appreciate what you’re saying, but it’s always been dark for as long as I can remember, and I’ve checked my works pool Mondeos and they are all the same. I can’t see them all being faulty.
Does your car have external UJ's? They're a good candidate for steering stiffness and graunching.And that's why I know which companies to avoid!
Just to re-iterate, the steering isn't stiff, but something somewhere is sending a grinding feeling through it. It feels the same as when a wheel bearing is on its way and gets tight, making it difficult to turn round tight corners. The confused is that it appears completely silent till you're doing 40mph and cornering has no affect.
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something is going if the fluid isn't red but it might go on for decades 