Discussion
Whats the best way to restore the rails and get rid of surface corrosion without taking the car to bits? Getting under and rubbing down then spraying with anything recommended?
Maybe theres a thread elsewhere for this, apologies for asking but I've not had to do this before. Normally just get in and drive
Regards
Maybe theres a thread elsewhere for this, apologies for asking but I've not had to do this before. Normally just get in and drive
Regards
Killer Rhubarb said:
Whats the best way to restore the rails and get rid of surface corrosion without taking the car to bits? Getting under and rubbing down then spraying with anything recommended?
Regards
Pretty much as you say - scrape, sand, treat, paint (and where desired/appropiate waxoyl). Jack the car as high as you can, remove the wheels and anything else in the way (exhausts?) and get stuck in!Regards
Hopefully none of your tools will go through the chassis!
Be prepared to spend some time under there and get paint in your hair and small bits of Cerb in your eyes and up your nose!
Worth it in the end though.
There's a product called Galvafroid that's great for painting onto bear metal to stop it rusting.
It's sort of like a paint-on version of galvanising (but obvoiusly on the outside only).
It's a fairly thin product but if you paint over it with something thicker like Hammerite it'll do a pretty decent job.
It's sort of like a paint-on version of galvanising (but obvoiusly on the outside only).
It's a fairly thin product but if you paint over it with something thicker like Hammerite it'll do a pretty decent job.
Funny that you mention this as I'm currently doing this myself. So far I've Jizered the underside down with a little help from a scotch pad and sash brush to get it all nice and clean. Then tonight I'll be rubbing back the worse part of the chassis back using a wire brush attachment mounted to my electric drill. Once I've done this it'll all get a nice coat of a paint called POR15. Quite expensive but gets rave reviews! I've got some pictures at home so will put them up tonight for you if I get the chance. What's surprised me the most thou was just how good my chassis is already !
Edited by M3John on Thursday 8th July 12:39
POR15 is great, just make sure the surface is clean that you are painting it on. They do some Marine clean stuff that gets it really clean. Oh and wear gloves/overalls. It really doesn't come off skin for weeks.
My corners were starting to get some surface rust so it was attacked with derust stuff, then por15, then hammerite to get it black again, then it's been waxoiled as well.
When I was having new manifolds fitted I had the engine bay chassis bits cleaned, por15'd and painted as well whilst they had access to it.
It's worth keeping an eye on it every 6 months or sooner.
My corners were starting to get some surface rust so it was attacked with derust stuff, then por15, then hammerite to get it black again, then it's been waxoiled as well.
When I was having new manifolds fitted I had the engine bay chassis bits cleaned, por15'd and painted as well whilst they had access to it.
It's worth keeping an eye on it every 6 months or sooner.
Killer Rhubarb said:
M3John said:
So far I've Jizered the underside down
I just do this when I drive it!Seriously though mate excellent, I could use some pointers from a veteran. Step by step pics would be nice
ThanksRegards
am a newbe to Cerb ownership sir. They are fairly primative cars to work on though. I've just whipped the engine out of mine for some work to be done on it. 
In fact i might have some pictures here give me 5 minutes...
Before :
After :
...and remember this is only after a light dusting of Jizer and a very quick jet wash. I'll photograph it all as i'm going so more pictures will appear on here within a week or two.
By the way, this is the paint i used and where i got it from:
FROST
M3J.
After :
...and remember this is only after a light dusting of Jizer and a very quick jet wash. I'll photograph it all as i'm going so more pictures will appear on here within a week or two.
By the way, this is the paint i used and where i got it from:
FROST
M3J.
Edited by M3John on Thursday 8th July 13:14
Another brief update for you,
After cleaning the chassis using Jizer and elbow grease as in the pictures above, i used a wire brush attachment to go in my 240v drill and cleaned the chassis down even more like this :
For some bizarre reason i thought i had more pictures of it but, all i can find at the minute is the shots of the front Outriggers.
...And to be honest i was rather pleased with the condition of it. Had a nice poke around and it's good & solid under there. What i did notice though was, after i cleaned it down with the wire brush, was that my chassis wasn't silver at all - i have in fact a white chassis ! From what i can gather this is a good thing.
So, on to the application of the POR15 paint that i said i bought. Now it does seem very good gear but if you do use it be sure to...
A: Get plenty of cheep-ish paint brushes. As i found that normal paint brush spirits don't shift it. Or...
B: Do it all in one sitting as any paint residue thats left around the edge of the tin will weld the lid to the tin and it'll be forever more as one !
C: Cover up as once its on your skin/in your hair, its a real paint to get out.
After paint applied :
It may appear to be quite `generously` applied and that was the intention ! Wanted to get under there the least times possible to be honest. In the last few pictures you'll notice the heat shield around the transmission tunnel looking quite torn. Well tonights task was to get under there (with my horrific back pains i'm having at the minute) and repair all of that and dress up the inner wings with some special material. I've been using `plummer's tape`. A kind of adhesive tin foil to dress it up then i applied some of THIS STUFF i bought from ebay. Yes it is expensive but boy is it good gear ! I'll grab some pictures of the finished engine bay once its done for you.
Enough blabbering
from me. I hope i've inspired you enough now to have a crack at yours !
M3J.
.....oh and fingers crossed i'll have the engine and `box back in by Friday night!
After cleaning the chassis using Jizer and elbow grease as in the pictures above, i used a wire brush attachment to go in my 240v drill and cleaned the chassis down even more like this :
For some bizarre reason i thought i had more pictures of it but, all i can find at the minute is the shots of the front Outriggers.
...And to be honest i was rather pleased with the condition of it. Had a nice poke around and it's good & solid under there. What i did notice though was, after i cleaned it down with the wire brush, was that my chassis wasn't silver at all - i have in fact a white chassis ! From what i can gather this is a good thing.
So, on to the application of the POR15 paint that i said i bought. Now it does seem very good gear but if you do use it be sure to...
A: Get plenty of cheep-ish paint brushes. As i found that normal paint brush spirits don't shift it. Or...
B: Do it all in one sitting as any paint residue thats left around the edge of the tin will weld the lid to the tin and it'll be forever more as one !
C: Cover up as once its on your skin/in your hair, its a real paint to get out.
After paint applied :
It may appear to be quite `generously` applied and that was the intention !
Wanted to get under there the least times possible to be honest. In the last few pictures you'll notice the heat shield around the transmission tunnel looking quite torn. Well tonights task was to get under there (with my horrific back pains i'm having at the minute) and repair all of that and dress up the inner wings with some special material. I've been using `plummer's tape`. A kind of adhesive tin foil to dress it up then i applied some of THIS STUFF i bought from ebay. Yes it is expensive but boy is it good gear ! I'll grab some pictures of the finished engine bay once its done for you.Enough blabbering
from me. I hope i've inspired you enough now to have a crack at yours !M3J.
.....oh and fingers crossed i'll have the engine and `box back in by Friday night!
M3John said:
What's surprised me the most thou was just how good my chassis is already !
Hi John,We are doing a big engine out and chassis restore at the moment and felt the same when I saw my chassis!
Considering it is an early car (96) I was thinking it'd be a lot of work. Instead we found the main chassis to be pretty much mint and the outriggers only showing light surface rust.
It all looks great now after doing exactly the same as you have done but with different products.
We used Vactan after seeing it recommended on here then reading up about it. It's a marine grade rust converter.
Then a load of Eastwood Extreme Chassis Black HIGH GLOSS.
It is quite a nice thing to get done considering some of the chassis I've seen pics of on here.
Good luck with the engine on Friday John
. I'd like to say that your posts have been really inspiring and I admire your positive approach to the problems you have encountered so far. Perfect for Cerb ownership!If its of any interest to anybody there is a company called chassis clean in Cheshire that do this sort of work for you. They did a chimeara for me a few years ago and its still looks good. It cost me about £350 and was turned around in 3to 4 days.Im going to get the cerb booked in and Ill post some pics when it is done
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