Zetec Turbo

[singlecoil]

After considering a number of alternatives, I have decided that a turbocharged Zetec installation is the ideal set-up for a project that is already under way. The project itself is to build a seven which will eventually be sold, hopefully as the first of a series. So this is a commercial undertaking, and one that it is intended to repeat.

I build, repair and modify kit cars for other people as a full time business so have gained some experience of the right and wrong ways of putting a kit car together. I will be using a modified proprietary chassis with my own bodywork.

I have chosen the Zetec for a number of reasons-
It’s possible to buy a brand new unit for less than a £1,000
Suitable forged pistons and rods are available
It will fit the MT75 gearbox
The exhaust manifold is on the nearside
It’s a good engine

The turbocharger is needed to bring the power output up to 250bhp or thereabouts.

I have studied the subject in some depth, from what I have learned so far, I am thinking of progressing along these lines-

New Zetec, existing rods and pistons removed and replaced with forged items for a compression ratio of 8:1, with ARP bolts, various sellers on Ebay

Spencer Ashley inlet manifold for around £225, it takes the standard Zetec fuel rail.

Emerald ECU

A charge cooler might be easier to accommodate than an intercooler

Not sure about the turbo, maybe a T4? Also not sure about the exhaust manifold.

If anyone has any thoughts about any of the above, or links to websites that deal with it, or anybody that sells the stuff required then I would be grateful.

[Boosted LS1]

I can probably help you with this. Cast turbo manifolds take about 4 weeks to make and are flanged for T3 framed turbo's. As for tubby choice look at the flow charts. I've used T3's and Gt28's for pushing past 300 hp. I can mount the turbo above or below the manifold but usually they are top mounted. I use an adaptor plate if using a gt28 turbo.

[singlecoil]

Boosted LS1 said:

I can probably help you with this. Cast turbo manifolds take about 4 weeks to make and are flanged for T3 framed turbo's. As for tubby choice look at the flow charts. I've used T3's and Gt28's for pushing past 300 hp. I can mount the turbo above or below the manifold but usually they are top mounted. I use an adaptor plate if using a gt28 turbo.

Thanks for the reply, I have sent you a couple of emails about this but must have been using the wrong address. I took my guess about the turbo from the fact that the Audi 1.8t come with a T3 and the usual upgrade is a T4. I realise there is a good deal more to it than that, though.

Would you need to know whether the turbo was going above or below before ordering the manifold? I think there should be room above but would be a bit concerned about the heat, being quite close to a GRP bonnet

[Boosted LS1]

I've had problems with my emails but think it's sorted now but I've no way of really telling. As for the manifold, nearly every one has the turbo on top. On my zetec web page you'll see a gt28 mounted onto an engine which may give you an idea of where everything fits. HTH.

[Pumaracing]

For a lowly 250 bhp you aren't going to have to do anything very fancy with the turbo installation. Running some calcs in one of my simulation programmes you'll only need about 12 psi on a standard solid lifter Zetec engine and a T3 will be more than adequate. I doubt you'll need to go as low as 8:1 on the CR either. High 8's should be fine on a 16V engine with good cylinder turbulence.

16V engines can generally stand about 1 point higher on the CR for a given usage than 8V ones.

[singlecoil]

Boosted LS1 said:

I've had problems with my emails but think it's sorted now but I've no way of really telling.

I will send you an email through your profile in the next 15 minutes.

Pumaracing said:

For a lowly 250 bhp you aren't going to have to do anything very fancy with the turbo installation. Running some calcs in one of my simulation programmes you'll only need about 12 psi on a standard solid lifter Zetec engine and a T3 will be more than adequate. I doubt you'll need to go as low as 8:1 on the CR either. High 8's should be fine on a 16V engine with good cylinder turbulence.

16V engines can generally stand about 1 point higher on the CR for a given usage than 8V ones.

Should I build in a bit of future proofing though, just in case someone wants to go beyond the 250 (a figure I chose for mainly marketing reasons)?

[Pumaracing]

singlecoil said:

Should I build in a bit of future proofing though, just in case someone wants to go beyond the 250 (a figure I chose for mainly marketing reasons)?

Well everything is a compromise and the lower the CR the less tractable the engine will be off boost. Designing the engine to take more power in the future will just make it a bit less pleasant to drive in 250 bhp form. The easiest ways to offer alternatives would be a thicker headgasket or different pistons for higher output applications. However for any significant power change you'd probably need a bigger turbo anyway which means other things are going to need altering and it becomes a non trivial exercise.

[stevieturbo]

Have to say, it seems an incredibly odd way to go about something you want to sell for profit.

Choose a n/a engine...and then have to spend a fortune on it, to enable the fitment of a turbo setup.

£1k engine + £1k forged bits + £xxx turbo manifold + £xx intake + £xxx ecu and wiring etc + £xxx suitable clutch + £xxx turbocharger

Now you see where I'm going with that ?

Now surely a common sense approach would be one where you can buy a complete used turbo front cut from a car, for say £1-2k ? Maybe even with a gearbox included ?
Or perhaps even with the factory ecu and wiring included ?

Then you dont need to buy any forged parts, or any turbocharger, or any manifold etc etc

It would be a lot easier to adapt an existing turbo engine to vit the MT75, if you insisted on retaining it, than starting from scratch building a turbo system, just because an engine that needs thousands spent on it to go turbo, fits a particular gearbox ?

As for turbos, the old T-series turbos are crap and ancient. The more modern GT series as Mike says, or some of the different makes that either VAG now use, or many of the Jap makers would be far better in every respect.

Even the Cossie fraternity have now moved on from these old turbos....well, slowly, but they are.

[singlecoil]

stevieturbo said:

Have to say, it seems an incredibly odd way to go about something you want to sell for profit.

I'm afraid I can't help the way it seems to you.


I will look into your point about the turbo types though.

Edited by singlecoil on Wednesday 14th July 14:42

[stevieturbo]

A good, easy to source and reliable unit is the Mitsi TD04 found on most UK Subarus.

It will cope with 250 quite easily, and it spools very early.

Best bit is, they are so common, shouldnt have much trouble finding one for £100 or so.

Even the Nissan 200 GT28 is a good unit, albeit you will pay a lot more for it.

[RobCrezz]

stevieturbo said:

A good, easy to source and reliable unit is the Mitsi TD04 found on most UK Subarus.

It will cope with 250 quite easily, and it spools very early.

Best bit is, they are so common, shouldnt have much trouble finding one for £100 or so.

Even the Nissan 200 GT28 is a good unit, albeit you will pay a lot more for it.

Most on the 200s are T28s, not GT28. T28 is not a bad turbo though, and quite cheap.