preventative maintenance - what do you do to your car?

[buzzer]

I have started / contributed to a couple of threads lately about doing preventative maintenance on my cars... What do you do/have done to your car as preventative maintenance?

I guess servicing is preventative maintenance in a way, things like changing oil, coolant and brake fluid etc, but i mean things that you do over and above this. As an example:-

BMW 728i -

Water pump changed as the plastic impeller fails

Changed the auto transmission fluid (its sealed for life - but i changed it anyway)

Squirted Waxoyle into the boot area above the inner an outer wheel arch as this is where rust starts

stripped and re-built the brake calipers as they are prone to sticking when the miles pile on

Drilled a small hole in the fuel filler cap to prevent the fuel tank cracking (vacuum builds up as fuel is used and the tank "sucks" in and as the vacuum releases the tank flexes - this causes stress fractures in the tank seams)


Audi TT

Changed the cam belt and water pump at 50k miles as these fail

removed and cleaned the sump as the oil strainer can block

Changed the clutch fluid

Link below with some pictures of the Audi TT maintenance

http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...

[Gizmo!]

I washed it a couple of months ago...

[Greenwich Ross]

I don't rag the living st out of it from cold and, after a spirited run, allow the engine to cool before I switch it off.

[Crusoe]

waxoil all the exposed metal bolts and connections in the engine bay is about the only thing I do that isn't required.

[Twincam16]

Always wait for the injector, oil-check and fast-idle to stop before moving off, especially when cold.

Always do a full service every 6000 miles (the handbook sets minor/major intervals at 6000/12,000 mile intervals, but I'd rather change/check everything at once.

[Vidal Baboon]

Twincam16 said:

Always wait for the injector, oil-check and fast-idle to stop before moving off, especially when cold.

Always do a full service every 6000 miles (the handbook sets minor/major intervals at 6000/12,000 mile intervals, but I'd rather change/check everything at once.

I bought a Mercedes 190 Cosworth with around 201,000miles on the clock.
Compression was great, minimal wear on the cams etc, etc...

I looked back through the history for which it had receipts for an oil change nigh on every 6000miles. Fascinating to read back through & a testiment to regular oil changes.


I always try to let my car warm up before taking it above 3500rpm, or wide openings of the throttle.


Something i'd be keen to try out is a sacrifical anode. I've seen it used on the propeller shafts on boats & only once come across it on a car (Audi A4)

• Change the antifreeze every year- i'm sure I remember it being suggested to change them for winter & summer use. But that's probably overkill?

• Brake Fluid every two years- surprising how easily it gets forgotten.

• Smooth driving- correct gear for the road conditions- no point labouring the engine.

• Keep drain holes clear of crap

Edited by Vidal Baboon on Wednesday 14th July 11:02

[anonymous-user]

Greenwich Ross said:

I don't rag the living st out of it from cold and, after a spirited run, allow the engine to cool before I switch it off.

Genuine question: how does that work?

Doesn't the cooling system aim to maintain an optimum temperature at all times when the engine is running? Leaving the engine running is just keeping it as warm as it would be when you're driving around?

[Greenwich Ross]

MSTRBKR said:

Greenwich Ross said:

I don't rag the living st out of it from cold and, after a spirited run, allow the engine to cool before I switch it off.

Genuine question: how does that work?

Doesn't the cooling system aim to maintain an optimum temperature at all times when the engine is running? Leaving the engine running is just keeping it as warm as it would be when you're driving around?

No idea, mate, but the manual even mentions it and who am I to argue with Stuttgart's finest?

Edit: Maybe it's to allow the cooling system itself to cool down? I'm sure one of the clever chaps here will enlighten us shortly.

Edited by Greenwich Ross on Wednesday 14th July 11:15

[ExPat2B]

MSTRBKR said:

Greenwich Ross said:

I don't rag the living st out of it from cold and, after a spirited run, allow the engine to cool before I switch it off.

Genuine question: how does that work?

Doesn't the cooling system aim to maintain an optimum temperature at all times when the engine is running? Leaving the engine running is just keeping it as warm as it would be when you're driving around?

Actually if have ever used real gauges rather than the damped "idiot needle" that most cars have, you will note a wide variation in the oil and coolant tempreatures and pressures. It is wise to allow a period of cooling ( typically 5 mins of gentle driving ) after extreme use before switching the engine off, as other wise the car tends to "cook" its fluids when oil and water stops flowing when the engine is switched off. ( This is why on some cars they run the fan even when ignition is switched off to cool the car, and why car that are developing an overheating problem will spit fluids when the engine is switched off ) On cars with a turbo, the high turbo temps ( over 400 degrees ) will destroy the oil in the turbo when the flow stops, causing premature failure due to poor lubrication. Thus the car should idled allowing oil to continue to flow through the turbo until it reaches 120 degrees C or so ( safe temp for oil ), this can be as long as ten minutes or so if you had the turbo glowing !

[Vidal Baboon]

MSTRBKR said:

Greenwich Ross said:

I don't rag the living st out of it from cold and, after a spirited run, allow the engine to cool before I switch it off.

Genuine question: how does that work?

Doesn't the cooling system aim to maintain an optimum temperature at all times when the engine is running? Leaving the engine running is just keeping it as warm as it would be when you're driving around?

It certainly recommended on turbocharged applications, the turbo can continue to spin whilst the engine is shut down (so spinning turbo shaft with no oil pressure = wear)
I've also read oil can bake onto components.

I've also been told, that by letting the engine gradually warm up/cool down, it helps the engine expand and contract together.

I was told to think back to school with the bi-metallic strip


When you heated them up rapidly they will bend, apparently the same can happen to an engine where you have cast iron block & aluminium head.

However, this could all just be horse ste

Edited by Vidal Baboon on Wednesday 14th July 11:38

[Simbu]

MSTRBKR said:

Greenwich Ross said:

I don't rag the living st out of it from cold and, after a spirited run, allow the engine to cool before I switch it off.

Genuine question: how does that work?

Doesn't the cooling system aim to maintain an optimum temperature at all times when the engine is running? Leaving the engine running is just keeping it as warm as it would be when you're driving around?

I make a habit of doing this on my car - it allows the gubbins in the turbocharger to cool - switching off the engine when the turbo has just been used can cause oil to bake onto the bearings, increasing wear. Or so i've been told.

[anonymous-user]

I knew about the turbo thing but idling to allow the engine itself to cool sounds like a false economy to me.

[ExPat2B]

Things that I do that are above and beyond the service schedule, but I have discovered are time and energy efficent in the long run. Please bear in mind I keep my cars for a very long time and do all work myself.

when I get a car, no matter how good the previous service schedule, I year Zero it - this means to take every consumable item and replace it. Coolant, Clutch fluid, Brake fluid, Oil, Gearbox oil, Diff oil, fuel filter, Oil filter, Air filter, Aux drive belt, Sparkplugs, power steering fluid and belt. Since they wont need doing again for a very long time, I try to use uprated fluids where possible - Dot5.1 brake fluid, and Royal Purple gear and power steering fluid.


Also clean the Throttle body, and the idle air control valve, and clean crank case ventilation systems.

Everthing load bearing I dissassemble, gets re-assembled with new bolts and copper grease and torqued up correctly. Oil drain plug and copper crush washer is renewed.

I then clean, check and spray with sealant all electrical connections.

I remove battery, de-rust the tray, and replace with a plastic tray.

When I change the brake pads I also :

Clean the entire underarch area and deal with any incipent rust with wire brsuh, fertan and Por15.
Clean the brake lines and coat with clear waxoil.
Lubricate the sliders with red brake grease
Clean the caliper piston.
Replace the anti squeal shims and springs.
Copper grease the back of alloys to prevent corrosion.
Torque wheel nuts up with torque wrench.

Adjustments and checks.

Adjust all pedals properly, to engagme immediately with no slack.
Adjust handbrake and footbrake levels.
It when gets a 4 wheel geometry check once a year, or if I feel something is wrong.
Check throttle body fully opens and adjust cable to be correct.

I have probably missed a lot, but that is the list of things that I do, that don't get done at a main dealer with a "Full Service History"

[was8v]

MSTRBKR said:

idling to allow the engine itself to cool sounds like a false economy to me.

Lots of engines (inc the TT's 1.8T) have an electric auxiliary water pump that will continue to pump coolant around after you switch off to serve this very purpose.

[Vidal Baboon]

ExPat2B said:

Things that I do that are above and beyond the service schedule, but I have discovered are time and energy efficent in the long run. Please bear in mind I keep my cars for a very long time and do all work myself.

when I get a car, no matter how good the previous service schedule, I year Zero it - this means to take every consumable item and replace it. Coolant, Clutch fluid, Brake fluid, Oil, Gearbox oil, Diff oil, fuel filter, Oil filter, Air filter, Aux drive belt, Sparkplugs, power steering fluid and belt. Since they wont need doing again for a very long time, I try to use uprated fluids where possible - Dot5.1 brake fluid, and Royal Purple gear and power steering fluid.


Also clean the Throttle body, and the idle air control valve, and clean crank case ventilation systems.

Everthing load bearing I dissassemble, gets re-assembled with new bolts and copper grease and torqued up correctly. Oil drain plug and copper crush washer is renewed.

I then clean, check and spray with sealant all electrical connections.

I remove battery, de-rust the tray, and replace with a plastic tray.

When I change the brake pads I also :

Clean the entire underarch area and deal with any incipent rust with wire brsuh, fertan and Por15.
Clean the brake lines and coat with clear waxoil.
Lubricate the sliders with red brake grease
Clean the caliper piston.
Replace the anti squeal shims and springs.
Copper grease the back of alloys to prevent corrosion.
Torque wheel nuts up with torque wrench.

Adjustments and checks.

Adjust all pedals properly, to engagme immediately with no slack.
Adjust handbrake and footbrake levels.
It when gets a 4 wheel geometry check once a year, or if I feel something is wrong.
Check throttle body fully opens and adjust cable to be correct.

I have probably missed a lot, but that is the list of things that I do, that don't get done at a main dealer with a "Full Service History"

we are not worthy!

[ExPat2B]

MSTRBKR said:

I knew about the turbo thing but idling to allow the engine itself to cool sounds like a false economy to me.

You don't have to idle to cool the engine, just drive gently for a few minutes. Most people do this normally as they drive into a residential area to reach their house and slow down.

However, if you are on an enthusiastic trip in the alps, shooting up and down steep passes, if you stop at a beauty stop with a hot engine, it is wise to allow it to cool down at idle for 5 mins to prevent cooking the fluids, or overheating and spitting coolant everywhere/burst headgasket.

[buzzer]

ExPat2B said:

when I get a car, no matter how good the previous service schedule, I year Zero it - this means to take every consumable item and replace it. Coolant, Clutch fluid, Brake fluid, Oil, Gearbox oil, Diff oil, fuel filter, Oil filter, Air filter, Aux drive belt, Sparkplugs, power steering fluid and belt. Since they wont need doing again for a very long time, I try to use uprated fluids where possible - Dot5.1 brake fluid, and Royal Purple gear and power steering fluid.

Same as me

[Smiler.]

Don't let the mrs near it.

Come on!

[dylan0451]

bought my G reg mx5 last year, setup for track, ran faultlessly, clearly i decided being 20 odd years old car, and about to become a daily driver it needed a spruce up

filters - oil + filtermag to collect ferrous from bearings/fuel filter/air filter cleaned
gearbox - replaced with low mileage unit for stronger syncros. GL4 synth oil flush, twice. all seals replaced. top turret seals + rubbers changed, oil refilled
diff - double flush with a fully syn oil, replaced with a highline mineral. mounts changed for poly ones.
shafts - cv's with any monnement changed, all regreased, new boots if showing wear. prop replaced for lower mileage one as uj's worn
coilovers - rebuilt, new seals, oil, rods etc. spring rates changed for road
exhaust - new manifold gasket, all sections cleaned and resealed
body - cleaned and undersealed, drain points unblocked if required
brakes - fluid changed, discs changed, pads changed. sliders regreased, handbrake adjusted
engine - new water pump, cambelt, tensioner, spark plugs, leads, thermostat, clutch, flywheel, sump cleaned
cooling - new rad, oat flush + renew, stat
other - uprated headlights + bulbs, silicon wipers

looking back at that list i wonder if i should have just done things as i needed to do them seeing as i've probably spent the value of the car on itself. still, lot to be said for reliability i guess

[Twincam16]

MSTRBKR said:

I knew about the turbo thing but idling to allow the engine itself to cool sounds like a false economy to me.

The user's manual for my old 924 recommended that the engine isn't left idling after a run at all, and switching it off straight away was the best way to cool it. I've always followed that procedure with N/A engines although I understand that leaving a turbocharged engine idling for 1-2 minutes after stopping was best to cool the vanes.

But what about supercharged engines? Surely they've also got vanes to cool but running the engine would surely put more pressure on them?