BOV question.....Calvin
Discussion
Well, my BOV seem to work whenever it wants. The motor pulls a good vacuum, the valve is easy to move back and forth when removed, and the boost gauge says it has full boost. But, the BOV just won't kick on. The only thing I can see cleaning on the interior is the plastic valve portion. What would cause this behavoir? Does my boost gauge show the actual boost conditions? should I reset my ECU (red race)? Could it be my wastegate? You said you cleaned yours up and it works great, what did you do? Thanks, Ian
OK...So, I reset my Red Race ECU (S4). The BOV still does not activate. I noticed my vacuum pump making alot of moise. When I just have the ingnition on, without the car running, the vacuum pump runs for a second.....and then it keeps coming on and off. I wonder if I have a leak? Would this make mu turbo a little weak also? It feels that way. I thougt the vacuum would stay off after it established the connection when the car is off. Thanks for you advice.
dr.ian said:
OK...So, I reset my Red Race ECU (S4). The BOV still does not activate. I noticed my vacuum pump making alot of moise. When I just have the ingnition on, without the car running, the vacuum pump runs for a second.....and then it keeps coming on and off. I wonder if I have a leak? Would this make mu turbo a little weak also? It feels that way. I thougt the vacuum would stay off after it established the connection when the car is off. Thanks for you advice.
Check to see if the little vacuum hose you snipped to install hasn't begun to split at the end...mine did after install, so I snipped it again above the split, and it's been fine ever since.
Mike
Well, I checked the hoses. They are all good. One funny thing. The hose hat connects the little black and white valve to the cannister.....it feels like it is clogged. I can not blow any air through it, and it is way too tough for the engine to suck anything out of it. I don't know what to do. Also, does your vacuum pump run all the time when the car is off? Can the cannister line become clogged?
Sorry have been out of town attending one of my kids swim competitions for the better part of the week end.
The valve you describe is a one way check valve. When properly working it allows gasoline fumes from the charcoal canister to be sucked back in the engine as part of the emissions control system.
When working it will not allow movement of air to the canister.
The T is to inserted in between this one way check valve and the head.
To clean the BOV, remove it and place it on a good working surface.
Remove the circ clip from the hose connector/adjustment regulator.
Grip the top and bottom portion of the BOV with a rubber pad of the sort one uses to open a jar top and rotate the top in counter clockwise direction to unscrew the top. The top rib of the concentric ribs conceals the mate jointing of the top and body of the BOV. Carefully unscrew the top off keeping in mind there is a small spring in a recess and a ball that sits on top of the spring. This ball provides friction and the click stop via a disc with a detent. If the ball comes loose from a top this spring you will loose the click stop.
Once you have taken the top off, remove the clean the insides with a degreaser that leaves no or little residue and reassemble.
It may require a short break in time for the BOV to loosen up and starts working. The minimum BOV setting for a new BOV is 12 psi and you will have to increase the setting as it wears.
To check the BOV operation stick a rachet handle or some sort of tool handle in the throat of the BOV and press with a force of about 12lbs. and then apply prgressive vacumm to the hose with a vac pump. At the point the sufficent vac is applied the BOV the seal in the throat of the BOV will open up.
It is also possible for a person to provide enough suction on the hose to trigger BOV although they would have to suck on the hose very hard. Perhaps a girl friend or wife can do this while you jam the tool down the throat opening.
Did that sound right?
Calvin
The valve you describe is a one way check valve. When properly working it allows gasoline fumes from the charcoal canister to be sucked back in the engine as part of the emissions control system.
When working it will not allow movement of air to the canister.
The T is to inserted in between this one way check valve and the head.
To clean the BOV, remove it and place it on a good working surface.
Remove the circ clip from the hose connector/adjustment regulator.
Grip the top and bottom portion of the BOV with a rubber pad of the sort one uses to open a jar top and rotate the top in counter clockwise direction to unscrew the top. The top rib of the concentric ribs conceals the mate jointing of the top and body of the BOV. Carefully unscrew the top off keeping in mind there is a small spring in a recess and a ball that sits on top of the spring. This ball provides friction and the click stop via a disc with a detent. If the ball comes loose from a top this spring you will loose the click stop.
Once you have taken the top off, remove the clean the insides with a degreaser that leaves no or little residue and reassemble.
It may require a short break in time for the BOV to loosen up and starts working. The minimum BOV setting for a new BOV is 12 psi and you will have to increase the setting as it wears.
To check the BOV operation stick a rachet handle or some sort of tool handle in the throat of the BOV and press with a force of about 12lbs. and then apply prgressive vacumm to the hose with a vac pump. At the point the sufficent vac is applied the BOV the seal in the throat of the BOV will open up.
It is also possible for a person to provide enough suction on the hose to trigger BOV although they would have to suck on the hose very hard. Perhaps a girl friend or wife can do this while you jam the tool down the throat opening.
Did that sound right?
Calvin
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