100 AMP FUSE
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Discussion

Quinny

Original Poster:

15,926 posts

295 months

Saturday 17th July 2010
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The initial message was deleted from this topic on 20 October 2011 at 23:04

spend

12,581 posts

280 months

Saturday 17th July 2010
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Those cables really should be shrink wrapped where the terminal is exposed from the holder IMHO.

It is easier to apply a spot bit of shrinkwrap if you always have a lighter (or 2) in your pocket winkhehe

crackedfinger

1,569 posts

258 months

Saturday 17th July 2010
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When I saw the state of mine I relocated it up near the alternator/ idle pulley bracket, not sure what he logic is to have it in an non-inaccessible place in the car. Not i can check it in just a few seconds smile

Johno

8,593 posts

311 months

Saturday 17th July 2010
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2 other point I may raise . . .

1 - Mr Heath sells a far better fuse design, which isn't just a metal strip which does take a battering of salt, weather, heat etc . . Worth looking at.

2 - when doing up the 8mm nut's be careful that it doesn't twist the blade fuse or put it under tension, as sometimes they can do ..

3 - don't panic if it blows and you haven't got a spare, just connect the wires together and get home, then replace.

spend

12,581 posts

280 months

Saturday 17th July 2010
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crackedfinger said:
...logic...
You can't really put the fuse between the battery & starter (draws too much) but to protect the circuit (the wire) as close to that point as possible I would guess is the logic - and obviously somewhere it can be securely mounted.

I still think wiring the alternator back to the fusebox area and removing the starter pole to alt loop makes a lot of sense TBH. A little bit more wire and time, but at least the fuse can be kept in a better environment wink

Early cars had the battery cable to starter, then cable to alt.. but the fusebox was only connected to power by wires over the engine bay to the alt... even though the fusebox sat inches away from the battery hehe

Johno

8,593 posts

311 months

Saturday 17th July 2010
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Haven't done one on my new ramps, but I'm it'll only take a few minutes as well wink

shpub

8,507 posts

301 months

Sunday 18th July 2010
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spend said:
crackedfinger said:
...logic...
You can't really put the fuse between the battery & starter (draws too much) but to protect the circuit (the wire) as close to that point as possible I would guess is the logic - and obviously somewhere it can be securely mounted.
You can - a lot of commercial vehicles do which is how I found out. Hired a tail lift box van and started it in gear and it wouldn't start again. Problem turned out to an inline fuse used to protect the starter/wiring. Shorted out the holder and the starter came back into life.

It was a 500A MEGA fuse. I use them on the LS conversions as they are a lot more reliable and allow bigger capacity alternators. I have a 150A alternator on the Cerb and it was blowing the normal 100A/125A midi fuses.

Simon says

19,442 posts

250 months

Sunday 18th July 2010
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Quinny could you not have done a video frown ........ i miss the accent hehe