Took some time BUT....996tt alarm & immobiliser by-pass.
Discussion
996tt Alarm and immobiliser by-pass
996 Alarm module over ride.
Well, after 9 hours of investigation, I have found it possible using multiple links and connections to run all the Windows, engine hood lock,front hood lock, fuel cap release, all internal lighting and Aux power without having the Alarm-Cl module in the Car. Completely removed.
My goal is to have the car running with no alarm, immobiliser, central Locking unit fitted in the car.
Not permanent but just as an exercise as to how the system is built and can be overridden.
My next task, is to work out how the immobiliser works and over ride that too.
The reason for all this is: Well, if I have got to live with a car that relies so much on technology, I want to know how to over come that technology if I get stuck in the middle of now where.
The transmitter in the key fob is not required to start the car either. I have taken out the internal remove electronics leaving a bare Key and just the tiny induction coil set in the plastic. It is this induction coil ( no batteries required0 that triggers the ignition engine lock ( immobiliser).
If I can get round this then even the Master non remote key could be used to start the car and run it.
I have been surprised by the sheer complexity that each individual system in the Car interacts with each other via the alarm module, but once out of the alarm how old fashioned the rest of the interlinks are. Still good old earth/ground switching and old fashioned relay control.
I need to know how the engine is stopped from starting. Is it by removing power to the starter relay , dme relay or fuel pump relay? So going to have another bash at it later.
I will, of course keep running the car with the alarm - Cl module fitted.
Frank
996 Alarm module over ride.
Well, after 9 hours of investigation, I have found it possible using multiple links and connections to run all the Windows, engine hood lock,front hood lock, fuel cap release, all internal lighting and Aux power without having the Alarm-Cl module in the Car. Completely removed.
My goal is to have the car running with no alarm, immobiliser, central Locking unit fitted in the car.
Not permanent but just as an exercise as to how the system is built and can be overridden.
My next task, is to work out how the immobiliser works and over ride that too.
The reason for all this is: Well, if I have got to live with a car that relies so much on technology, I want to know how to over come that technology if I get stuck in the middle of now where.
The transmitter in the key fob is not required to start the car either. I have taken out the internal remove electronics leaving a bare Key and just the tiny induction coil set in the plastic. It is this induction coil ( no batteries required0 that triggers the ignition engine lock ( immobiliser).
If I can get round this then even the Master non remote key could be used to start the car and run it.
I have been surprised by the sheer complexity that each individual system in the Car interacts with each other via the alarm module, but once out of the alarm how old fashioned the rest of the interlinks are. Still good old earth/ground switching and old fashioned relay control.
I need to know how the engine is stopped from starting. Is it by removing power to the starter relay , dme relay or fuel pump relay? So going to have another bash at it later.
I will, of course keep running the car with the alarm - Cl module fitted.
Frank
good Luck with that operation as the engine will not start with out the signal from the key being sent to the alarm control unit and then being passed onto the engine module. All injector and ignition circuits will be down as well as cranking signal but this is done inside the module. This is one of the most complex ways of disabling a car, been around for years now and not sure anyone has bypassed a porsche system yet.
Mike
Mike
Edited by sportsandclassic on Monday 19th July 10:16
good Luck with that operation as the engine will not start with our the signal from the key being sent to the alarm control unit and then being passed onto the engine module. All injector and ignition circuits will be down as well as cranking signal but this is done inside the module. This is one of the most complex ways of disabling a car, been around for years now and not sure anyone has bypassed a porsche system yet.
Mike
Mike
Your not wrong there.
I have worked out so far that the Start inhibit side is control via the start lock rela which inturn is controled by the DME. The fuel pup as we all know is switched by the Fuel pump relay which is in turn controled via....the DME. All this control it would seem is not just for securuty but also safty. For eg there is a crash input which must shut down engine services in an acident. I still dont know if there is a 3rd control.Still looking.
The DME still needs to be told from the alarm module that all is not well. There will be a signal from the alarm to the dme somewhere. Its finding it that is the problem so far.
I intend to keep posting my efforts even if it doesn't work.
However I can already see why the alarm-CL unit not functioning correctly can cause so many other faults.
My aim is no longer to completely remove the system. The unit from Design911 is only about £250. I would think an after market system would be about the same. what I want to do is understand the system so I dont have to take the Car to a garage.
So far I have found the module controls the following. and there's more still to come:
A. Interior lights (100 % control of them), including all door lights, courtesy lights, engine and hood lights, orientation lights, foot-well lights, vanity mirror lights. The rub is, most of the lighting systems are not linked together. You have got to jump out each lighting system to make them
work. Total of about 4 sub systems to jump out to get all the lighting to work.
B. Alarm sounder & Tilt unit outside of the Car.
C. The power load shut down system. ( eg 2 hrs & 5 day shut down)
D. The immobiliser.
E. The Power Windows. All the powered for the different Window functions( eg up/down/comfort down etc) are all different sub systems with individual control from the Alarm . I had to jump out 3 signals to get the Windows to work correctly. The Open door/open window operation is not controlled by the alarm-cl unit and if the fuse C3 is pulled to the alarm unit you can still open the doors with the key and start the car. But will have no other control of the windows /CL/interior lights etc. Even with the Alarn unit completely removed the dor/window functions works.
Frank
I have worked out so far that the Start inhibit side is control via the start lock rela which inturn is controled by the DME. The fuel pup as we all know is switched by the Fuel pump relay which is in turn controled via....the DME. All this control it would seem is not just for securuty but also safty. For eg there is a crash input which must shut down engine services in an acident. I still dont know if there is a 3rd control.Still looking.
The DME still needs to be told from the alarm module that all is not well. There will be a signal from the alarm to the dme somewhere. Its finding it that is the problem so far.
I intend to keep posting my efforts even if it doesn't work.
However I can already see why the alarm-CL unit not functioning correctly can cause so many other faults.
My aim is no longer to completely remove the system. The unit from Design911 is only about £250. I would think an after market system would be about the same. what I want to do is understand the system so I dont have to take the Car to a garage.
So far I have found the module controls the following. and there's more still to come:
A. Interior lights (100 % control of them), including all door lights, courtesy lights, engine and hood lights, orientation lights, foot-well lights, vanity mirror lights. The rub is, most of the lighting systems are not linked together. You have got to jump out each lighting system to make them
work. Total of about 4 sub systems to jump out to get all the lighting to work.
B. Alarm sounder & Tilt unit outside of the Car.
C. The power load shut down system. ( eg 2 hrs & 5 day shut down)
D. The immobiliser.
E. The Power Windows. All the powered for the different Window functions( eg up/down/comfort down etc) are all different sub systems with individual control from the Alarm . I had to jump out 3 signals to get the Windows to work correctly. The Open door/open window operation is not controlled by the alarm-cl unit and if the fuse C3 is pulled to the alarm unit you can still open the doors with the key and start the car. But will have no other control of the windows /CL/interior lights etc. Even with the Alarn unit completely removed the dor/window functions works.
Frank
sportsandclassic said:
Hi,
You will not be able to replicate the signal coming from the alarm module as this is digital and sent to the DME to enable the injector's and ignition circuits.... you will waste your time.
Mike
You could be right. The signal to the dme from the Alarm is on a "W" line. I'm not sure what "W" stands for as I am Electrical trained but not Auto electrical trained.You will not be able to replicate the signal coming from the alarm module as this is digital and sent to the DME to enable the injector's and ignition circuits.... you will waste your time.
Mike
I am going to put an Oscilloscope on the wire later and see what sort of signal it is.
At least I know that I can bypass most of the other common problems the alarm unit causes until an new unit can be ordered and fitted. Even then I think it requires coding. Not sure if Durametric 6 will do that. I know it does do some coding?
Frank.
Edited by Sunnysidebb on Monday 19th July 17:00
).Pope said:
Are you trying to fix something or just work out what happens if the Alarm s###s itself??
(in the latter case, why not just buy an ecu, have it coded and keep it as a spare??)
Hi thats it really, Want to know how to get out of the Sh$t WHEN the unit Sh$ts its self. ( again)(in the latter case, why not just buy an ecu, have it coded and keep it as a spare??)
My car will be hard to get a warranty within the next 2 years ( 10 year old then ) and I want to make the Car les and less reliant on internal " comfort " technology.
ABS PSM etc I do require. When it comes to having a car with no alarm and a basic form of central locking all i can say is " bring it on "
Your second point is very good. I didn't know it was possible to have 2 units coded the same . If so Good idea. They are not all that expensive. I was a little surprised at that.
Frank
Edited by Sunnysidebb on Monday 19th July 19:56
Richard Hamilton said:
The Cup cars use a completely different DME to the road cars. It is a Bosch Motorsport (MS3.1) unit, and doesn't have an immobiliser.
I would presume the cup cars are not Turbos??? GT3's or did they do Turbo Cups???I'm a bit ignorant when it come to cup Cars.
Thanks for any more info you might have.
Frank.
The GT3 Cup car is (basically) a stripped out GT3 road car built by Porsche Motorsport for the Carrera Cup series. They use GT3 engines, but with different engine management. MS3.1 is quite different to the Bosch Motronic 7.8 used on road cars. It doesn't use a MAF sensor, for a start.
Well,
I have reached the proverbila brick wall. The end.
I know how to override all the cars systems that run throught the Alarm-Cl unit apart form the immobiliser. Its digitally encoded into the DME.
So bank goes my hopes of removing the Alarm unit completely from the car and still have it running if I ever had to. I have learnt alot about the system though. So not a total waste of time.
Frank
ps, now if I could use a simulator to replicate the immobiliser code???
I have reached the proverbila brick wall. The end.
I know how to override all the cars systems that run throught the Alarm-Cl unit apart form the immobiliser. Its digitally encoded into the DME.
So bank goes my hopes of removing the Alarm unit completely from the car and still have it running if I ever had to. I have learnt alot about the system though. So not a total waste of time.
Frank
ps, now if I could use a simulator to replicate the immobiliser code???
Zip106 said:
Is the B & B particularly quiet, or have you just let the guests get on with it?
YOU HAVE TOO MUCH TIME ON YOUR HANDS!
YOU HAVE TOO MUCH TIME ON YOUR HANDS!
No, I have been burning the candle at both ends and almost near a devorce over the car
Just kiddin, but she is a little pi$$ed of with me at the moment.
Frank
Hi,
I know this is an old thread but I'm installing a 996 tt into an early car. I have an engine and engine wiring loom but no ecu/dme or wiring from dme to engine. My question is what would be the most cost effective way of getting the engine to run. I can get a standalone and a custom wiring loom but that would prove very expensive so am looking at other options . As has been said the engine immobiliser and ecu are coded to the engine and I don't have this info.
Thanks in advance
Dave
I know this is an old thread but I'm installing a 996 tt into an early car. I have an engine and engine wiring loom but no ecu/dme or wiring from dme to engine. My question is what would be the most cost effective way of getting the engine to run. I can get a standalone and a custom wiring loom but that would prove very expensive so am looking at other options . As has been said the engine immobiliser and ecu are coded to the engine and I don't have this info.
Thanks in advance
Dave
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