Running with no water, two foot to move the car.

[jmorgan]

OK, probably be OK?? Need to get the car back in the garage. around 2 foot so I can push it the rest of the way in. Still having issues with me plumbing and don't want to have to fill up the coolant only to drain it again when the right stuff arrives.

[Number 7]

What about disabling the fuel/ign and moving it just on the starter motor?

7.

[simonwedge]

Won't hurt it to just start it up and move it

[jmorgan]

Didn't think of the starter but its 4ft to the work bench and needs to be edged in right. No more than a few seconds.

Think my solution is going to be a few days at least, maybe a week or more so I think I will button it up and put water back in. Be on the safe side. Thanks for the inputs anyway. Offending split/cut pipe has been removed but have had to use this vulco rubber stuff, the corrugated rad hose with a stiff wire in it. Would rather get a proper fit done with the right stuff.

[adam quantrill]

Use the wheel nut bar with a metal pole on it on a back wheel (get the correct side so it does up) you can get a lot of torque down that stud. Or if you have a hub nut socket, all the better!

[rev-erend]

I used to run without water for 30 seconds or so in a RV8 engined Cortina MK1 I built .. it worked well until it threw a rod and piston thru the block.

Starter motor or Adams method is best.

Don't chance running without water.

[adam quantrill]

You and your souped-up Fords, Alan ;^)

[jmorgan]

Yeah, shoved the H2O back in to be on the safe side. Figured extra half hour is cheaper than an engine repair.

[wooly350i]

Hi Jeff,sat next to you at hog roast.Radiator specialist told me that matrix is more likely to leak if its been left dry for too long so prob better to keep it wet as long as poss,John
We had a good run back but broke toe adjuster on rear suspension arm the following day aqnd limped home to the sound of clattering metal on every bump!

[jmorgan]

Hi John, bad luck with that suspension part. The water is in for the time being, I was thinking that the water that gets on the zorst steams off quickly so without water there would be issues. Thought I would pose the question as the car was half out the garage when I realised its a made to measure job.

Need a new hose but it needs to be custom. Seems the range rover block and pump upset the standard a tad, if any wedge is standard. The steel pipe running from the bottom hose as a joiner also has rust in it along what seems to be a seam so I need a new one of them as well. Measurements in hand, just waiting to get the information to the right person. It is usable but I had to reuse a section of pipe that has seen better days, 35mm that happily fits over the 38mm pump inlet!! Would rather do a proper job.