Brake Options - 4.5
Discussion
Well I've managed to rack up 200 miles or so since I got the old plastic bath tub on the road.
So far so good, but I've got a nasty judder under braking that shakes the steering wheel (and my fillings!)
I suspect the front discs are uneven as they are quite spotted & pitted.
I had a go with emery cloth - but no improvement
Had the wheels balanced too
Toying with the idea of getting them skimmed - there is a garage just down the road who will do it with the discs in situ for 50 + vat per disc.
I would then fit new pads
Looking at the discs they look in reasonable nick (very small lip - but they could have been skimmed before), but when I run my finger across the disc they feel thicker in the middele rather than the outer edges. Is this normal?
Plan B would be new discs and pads, but there seems to be so many choices - looking for a std set-up as I'm an easy going driver (normally have the 2 little ones in the back.)
Which TVR parts supplier is the best (& cheapest!) in this instance?
What a bloody fantastic car tho - I love it!
Cheers
Nick
So far so good, but I've got a nasty judder under braking that shakes the steering wheel (and my fillings!)
I suspect the front discs are uneven as they are quite spotted & pitted.
I had a go with emery cloth - but no improvement
Had the wheels balanced too
Toying with the idea of getting them skimmed - there is a garage just down the road who will do it with the discs in situ for 50 + vat per disc.
I would then fit new pads
Looking at the discs they look in reasonable nick (very small lip - but they could have been skimmed before), but when I run my finger across the disc they feel thicker in the middele rather than the outer edges. Is this normal?
Plan B would be new discs and pads, but there seems to be so many choices - looking for a std set-up as I'm an easy going driver (normally have the 2 little ones in the back.)
Which TVR parts supplier is the best (& cheapest!) in this instance?
What a bloody fantastic car tho - I love it!
Cheers
Nick
Shed clearout looming. When I get a spare 5 minutes I'm going to list some Cerb 4.5 alloy brake bells in the classifieds.
They've still got the old rotors attached but whip them off and buy yourself a new set of bolts and AP 330mm grooved ones (plus you'll need 4mm caliper-spacers) and you'll be away.
I'll also be putting up a set of Mintex 1144s with around 8.5mm of pad material left. I've never had any problem with them. If you kill them in one track day it would still be worth £20
They've still got the old rotors attached but whip them off and buy yourself a new set of bolts and AP 330mm grooved ones (plus you'll need 4mm caliper-spacers) and you'll be away.
I'll also be putting up a set of Mintex 1144s with around 8.5mm of pad material left. I've never had any problem with them. If you kill them in one track day it would still be worth £20
I had this on both my 4.5 Cerbs, almost certainly warped discs.
Replacement discs cost a fortune - and they do it again. However I found that Tuscan S discs - which also happen to be cross drilled, are a direct fit, half the price, give better stopping and don't warp
It's a no brainer!
Replacement discs cost a fortune - and they do it again. However I found that Tuscan S discs - which also happen to be cross drilled, are a direct fit, half the price, give better stopping and don't warp
It's a no brainer!
Jasper Gilder said:
I had this on both my 4.5 Cerbs, almost certainly warped discs.
Replacement discs cost a fortune - and they do it again. However I found that Tuscan S discs - which also happen to be cross drilled, are a direct fit, half the price, give better stopping and don't warp
It's a no brainer!
Ths Tuscan S discs in place of the separate rotors and bells? The latter are a much better race derived vrake, but like you I have shudder issues with them. The Tuscan ones can suffer from cracking and are not as effective on track days and the like. Replacement discs cost a fortune - and they do it again. However I found that Tuscan S discs - which also happen to be cross drilled, are a direct fit, half the price, give better stopping and don't warp
It's a no brainer!
thanks for all the replies everyone
I thought the only option was to fit the single piece Tuscan discs as they AP ones were no longer available?
Very confused now...
DaveR said:
Shed clearout looming. When I get a spare 5 minutes I'm going to list some Cerb 4.5 alloy brake bells in the classifieds.
They've still got the old rotors attached but whip them off and buy yourself a new set of bolts and AP 330mm grooved ones (plus you'll need 4mm caliper-spacers) and you'll be away.
I'll also be putting up a set of Mintex 1144s with around 8.5mm of pad material left. I've never had any problem with them. If you kill them in one track day it would still be worth £20
So can I just buy the rotors & bolts from AP and fit to my existing bells? If so where & how much?They've still got the old rotors attached but whip them off and buy yourself a new set of bolts and AP 330mm grooved ones (plus you'll need 4mm caliper-spacers) and you'll be away.
I'll also be putting up a set of Mintex 1144s with around 8.5mm of pad material left. I've never had any problem with them. If you kill them in one track day it would still be worth £20
I thought the only option was to fit the single piece Tuscan discs as they AP ones were no longer available?
Very confused now...
Your looking at about £450 for a pair of 330mm rotors from AP( they don't do the original size anymore ), I bought a pair last year along with carbon Lorraine pads. I have to say the brakes are not as good or sharp as they were on the old rotors and unknown pads??
There is another company about that do the same size rotors with correct PCD etc, about £300.
There is another company about that do the same size rotors with correct PCD etc, about £300.
Under no circumstances change your disks until you have checked your drag link bushes. I spent a year and over £500 trying to correct brake judder. Skimmed disks, replaced pads, replace disks. Nothing solved the problem completely. Local garage and MOT staion both took a look. Research confirmed that warped disks are very rare. I then replaced the drag link bushes and all was solved.
I think the original rubber suspension bushes should be treated as consumables and replaced from time to time.
I think the original rubber suspension bushes should be treated as consumables and replaced from time to time.
DaveR said:
Shed clearout looming. When I get a spare 5 minutes I'm going to list some Cerb 4.5 alloy brake bells in the classifieds.
They've still got the old rotors attached but whip them off and buy yourself a new set of bolts and AP 330mm grooved ones (plus you'll need 4mm caliper-spacers) and you'll be away.
I'll also be putting up a set of Mintex 1144s with around 8.5mm of pad material left. I've never had any problem with them. If you kill them in one track day it would still be worth £20
Cheers Dave - look forward to receiving the bells! Brake upgrade here I come! They've still got the old rotors attached but whip them off and buy yourself a new set of bolts and AP 330mm grooved ones (plus you'll need 4mm caliper-spacers) and you'll be away.
I'll also be putting up a set of Mintex 1144s with around 8.5mm of pad material left. I've never had any problem with them. If you kill them in one track day it would still be worth £20
I have some AP 4 pot tvr calipers CP660 calipers pair brand new with new pads, pins rattle plates etc and some brand new tvr 304mm x 30mm, 72mm centre bore, PCD 114mm and stamped with PDC 29 AZ RP5330-2C. discs
Wanted to upgrade the calipers on my ZT but won't clear the wheels, but now as i'm after a cerbera best if i sell them and put the money towards a 4.5
£500 or make me an offer
Wanted to upgrade the calipers on my ZT but won't clear the wheels, but now as i'm after a cerbera best if i sell them and put the money towards a 4.5
£500 or make me an offer
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