bonnet paranoia

[RWX3L]

Over the last few weeks i have had cause to open my bonnet more often than usual, and this has casued the locking springs to become weak. This all become apparent on a local bumpy road in Hertfordshire when i glimpsed the flexing of the bonnet, bringig the car to a gentle but hurried halt the bonnet swung open, fortunately without any damage (ok maybe my underwear).

I'm now paranoid that this may happen again. Should i look to istall straps (and are these in keeping with a 72 1600m), or does anyone have any other suggestions.

[djc100]

There was a good set up at the Pre 80's.
Someone had fitted short quick release straps under the bonnet - so it could open approx 3 inch but no further without releasing the strap(s). Invisible from the outside.

Wish I had taken a pic. - I intend to fit something similar.

Are you sure it's the catch and not the spring on the release handle - the latter is easy to change / strengthen.

R's
David

[Adrian@]

The bonnet pins as such only height adjusters to the scuttle and the bonnet HAS to close correctly prior to these being closed. BUT the lever arms have springs inside the cabin that hold the mechanism closed and they can fail (NOT Taimar's and S's). The height setting is adjusted by undoing the 3/8 UNF locknut within the spring and spinning out the pin with a flat-head screw driver ...my advice would be to remove the pins and check that the bonnet is closing first, IF NOT then set the bonnet on the car R/L and UP/down on the bonnet frame ensuring that the bushes are correctly mounted to the chassis and the frame bush is spaced correctly by putting a long 3/8 UNF set bolt onto the chassis slotted mount with a nyloc and washer internally and a washer and locknut outside the slotted mount allowing the bonnet frame free movement R/L THEN release the internal nut and set the bonnet F/R and UP/down (related to shell), ONCE this is set, mark it up and cut the set bolt to get 1 washer outside of the frame bush and fill the void between the locknut with washers and the frame bush (limiting R/L movement but allowing the bonnet to pivot). Mark the centre point of the body mech on the scuttle and transfer that to the centre point of the spring pin bracket and adjust it R/L then put the pin back in and try closing and adjust F/R THEN height to body.
Adrian@

Added to say...that in the past, for confidence, I have drill the hole out on the end of the bonnet mech and added a brake wire (from a tow bar) and attached this to the metal stay next to the bonnet pin, which will allow the bonnet to open about 8-10 inches, prior to releasing.

Edited by Adrian@ on Thursday 22 July 09:01