removing marks left from bird poo
Discussion
I have a large bird poo mark on the roof of my car, and a few splatter marks on my spoiler.
It seems to have eaten into the laquer. Car was only painted in May too
I've tried T Cut and Autoglym super resin polish but they don't seem to have made much of a difference.
Do I need a harsher cutting compound or is the mark destined to be permanent?
It seems to have eaten into the laquer. Car was only painted in May too

I've tried T Cut and Autoglym super resin polish but they don't seem to have made much of a difference.
Do I need a harsher cutting compound or is the mark destined to be permanent?
Edited by Marf on Saturday 24th July 13:06
Be VERY careful taking abrasives to the paintwork.
If the mark has etched deeply into the lacquer you may well find that trying to sand it out will either leave you with a noticable hollow - unless you feather over a large area - or (with pearls & metallics) you will go through the lacquer onto the base coat, in which case its game over & in the case of roof and bonnet a complete panel respray will be needed.
If the mark has etched deeply into the lacquer you may well find that trying to sand it out will either leave you with a noticable hollow - unless you feather over a large area - or (with pearls & metallics) you will go through the lacquer onto the base coat, in which case its game over & in the case of roof and bonnet a complete panel respray will be needed.
Stuart, please remove your link - it's not a free-for-all in here.
As for 1st thing you do is launch into G3 - not on my Honda or any other "soft" paint you wouldn't be!
Far too abrasive a compound, even with a medium grade foam pad, let alone a wool or firm foam - I'd want some paint left for future corrections.
And I'd hope with a serious enough etching, after G32 doesn't remove it, you'd be using a paint gauge to measure the potential thickness of clearcoat/singlestage remaining before contemplating wet sanding and more G3?
I'd like to think you measured first before doing anything, then checking between stages, once the area has cooled to ambient temp again, how much you've removed.
Whilst your regime is well intentioned, I'm very concerned some members might read that and think it's a walk in the park, and end up costing themselves a respray of the whole panel, and blowing in of surrounding ones, if need be.
As for 1st thing you do is launch into G3 - not on my Honda or any other "soft" paint you wouldn't be!
Far too abrasive a compound, even with a medium grade foam pad, let alone a wool or firm foam - I'd want some paint left for future corrections.
And I'd hope with a serious enough etching, after G32 doesn't remove it, you'd be using a paint gauge to measure the potential thickness of clearcoat/singlestage remaining before contemplating wet sanding and more G3?
I'd like to think you measured first before doing anything, then checking between stages, once the area has cooled to ambient temp again, how much you've removed.
Whilst your regime is well intentioned, I'm very concerned some members might read that and think it's a walk in the park, and end up costing themselves a respray of the whole panel, and blowing in of surrounding ones, if need be.
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t' (it's actually urine) should be removed asap after it's been left!