Rear Drive shafts
Discussion
Well of to pick up the new engine this weekend, to slowly build up with replacement ancillaries etc before heaving the old lump out.
It's going to be a tuned 4.5, but still need to do a few bits to the car too keep on road safely so a few question come to mind
Want to upgrade the rear brakes to match the SEAC composite 4 pots I have on the front, but need to know what's been tried and recomended and also can the disks be replaced by just undoing the drive shafts at the diff end to get to the bolts ?
Which leads onto the drive shafts, apparently when I bought my 350 from the dealer they put new driveshafts in , but only the thinner ones and not the original fitment (cheap or what ?) so every year I normally break a couple of uj at bad moments (probably not helped by the 17's ?) So where can I get the thicker original type ones or maybe the BBW used an even better one ?
also looking to unprade the airflow meter and efi, any one know if the Range rover 4.6 unti would be a suitable replacement / upgrade ?
First on the list this month will be the stainless exhaust though to at least make mine sound like a bbw to get used to it !!!
Sorry so many questions, but BBW fest is coming and need to arrive in a stealthy BBW.
It's going to be a tuned 4.5, but still need to do a few bits to the car too keep on road safely so a few question come to mind
Want to upgrade the rear brakes to match the SEAC composite 4 pots I have on the front, but need to know what's been tried and recomended and also can the disks be replaced by just undoing the drive shafts at the diff end to get to the bolts ?
Which leads onto the drive shafts, apparently when I bought my 350 from the dealer they put new driveshafts in , but only the thinner ones and not the original fitment (cheap or what ?) so every year I normally break a couple of uj at bad moments (probably not helped by the 17's ?) So where can I get the thicker original type ones or maybe the BBW used an even better one ?
also looking to unprade the airflow meter and efi, any one know if the Range rover 4.6 unti would be a suitable replacement / upgrade ?
First on the list this month will be the stainless exhaust though to at least make mine sound like a bbw to get used to it !!!
Sorry so many questions, but BBW fest is coming and need to arrive in a stealthy BBW.
You have to unbolt the calipers and the driveshafts to remove the rear discs, also you might want to measure the camber side to side before you undo everything as this is adjusted by shims under the driveshaft. So you can take the opportunity to make adjustments or at least ensure everything is correct when you put it all back together.
As for the thicker driveshafts, these are very rare although I have heard the factory will sell you a pair for around 500 quid...
The driveshaft itself wasn't much increased but the much larger UJ that came with it is the real advantage. Probably the easiest route is to take your existing drive shafts to someone like Dave Mac propshafts in Coventry and get them to make you up a new set re-using your existing stub axles.
I'd guess this'll be around the 300 quid mark, or you could try and find a 2nd hand set.......
I've been looking for the last 3 years.
Best of luck
Matt
As for the thicker driveshafts, these are very rare although I have heard the factory will sell you a pair for around 500 quid...
The driveshaft itself wasn't much increased but the much larger UJ that came with it is the real advantage. Probably the easiest route is to take your existing drive shafts to someone like Dave Mac propshafts in Coventry and get them to make you up a new set re-using your existing stub axles.
I'd guess this'll be around the 300 quid mark, or you could try and find a 2nd hand set.......
I've been looking for the last 3 years.
Best of luck
Matt
As for bigger rear brakes... don't bother. I've been running these as standard on the 520 for years. There is an upgrade available but all it does is change the existing disv for a ventilated one. EBC due a grooved standard replacement but I have never felt the need. There is an upgrdae that uses four pots but the last time I enquired it was over 2500 pnds...
Tower view made some under floor cooling ducts that do the job. I use Mintex 1144 pads. Seem fine.
The rear anti roll bar has been made but I haven't fitted it yet because I redesigned the front and rear suspension due to some other more pressing problems. The front Turret mounts had bent about 20 mm upwards. I have designed some different mounts and the stud fitting has been replaced with proper bush mounts that also make the the shock more vertical and work a lot better. Also means that I can remove the front shock in about 5 minutes without taking the front suspension apart. Tower View can do a kit if needed. Need to be good at welding though as the new mounts and braces require welding to the chassis. The old turret mount is chopped out.
The rear suspension has been changed with a different spring and shock and this has solved the problems that I had intended the rear anti-roll bar to address. The car is really planted on a smooth circuit but hates bumps when driven hard as there is very little movement in the suspension due to the 600lb springs I'm running. The roll problem that I had has gone judging by the photos and video I have so the rear ARB is not needed so far. Still testing at the moment but the new suspension is a real improvement.
So that with a rebuilt 8 throttle body engine, diff, gearbox, clutch basically describes what I did over the winter.
>> Edited by shpub on Tuesday 23 March 09:25
The rear anti roll bar has been made but I haven't fitted it yet because I redesigned the front and rear suspension due to some other more pressing problems. The front Turret mounts had bent about 20 mm upwards. I have designed some different mounts and the stud fitting has been replaced with proper bush mounts that also make the the shock more vertical and work a lot better. Also means that I can remove the front shock in about 5 minutes without taking the front suspension apart. Tower View can do a kit if needed. Need to be good at welding though as the new mounts and braces require welding to the chassis. The old turret mount is chopped out.
The rear suspension has been changed with a different spring and shock and this has solved the problems that I had intended the rear anti-roll bar to address. The car is really planted on a smooth circuit but hates bumps when driven hard as there is very little movement in the suspension due to the 600lb springs I'm running. The roll problem that I had has gone judging by the photos and video I have so the rear ARB is not needed so far. Still testing at the moment but the new suspension is a real improvement.
So that with a rebuilt 8 throttle body engine, diff, gearbox, clutch basically describes what I did over the winter.
>> Edited by shpub on Tuesday 23 March 09:25
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