Film SLR newbie needs some help
Discussion
Hey guys, I'm just back from china, and instead of picking up a new lens like I originally intended I picked up two lenses and a camera, for the grand total of £0.
Anyway the camera is a Nikon F-301, and having found an old instruction manual, I seem to have got to grips with using it. I however, have no idea now when it comes to developing the photos. I'm a young'un see and was maybe 8 when I last used a film camera, and all I did then was go into boots and the film would magically turn into photos I could put in a album and never look at again.
I want to be able to take photos and put them on flick and edit them etc. Now if anyone could please treat me like a complete simpleton and explain what I do after I've taken the film out of the camera to get them on a computer, I've googled around a bit and am still confused. I realise I will probably need to buy a film scanner, but are there places that will do this for you, and I hope this doesn't sound ridiculously stupid, but isn't there a difference between the film in the camera, and the negatives that you scan? or am I being thick, any advice, or useful websites would be greatly appreciated.
(China was fantastic by the way, expect a thread with some photos soon)
Thanks
Tom
Anyway the camera is a Nikon F-301, and having found an old instruction manual, I seem to have got to grips with using it. I however, have no idea now when it comes to developing the photos. I'm a young'un see and was maybe 8 when I last used a film camera, and all I did then was go into boots and the film would magically turn into photos I could put in a album and never look at again.
I want to be able to take photos and put them on flick and edit them etc. Now if anyone could please treat me like a complete simpleton and explain what I do after I've taken the film out of the camera to get them on a computer, I've googled around a bit and am still confused. I realise I will probably need to buy a film scanner, but are there places that will do this for you, and I hope this doesn't sound ridiculously stupid, but isn't there a difference between the film in the camera, and the negatives that you scan? or am I being thick, any advice, or useful websites would be greatly appreciated.
(China was fantastic by the way, expect a thread with some photos soon)
Thanks
Tom
Take the film and get it developed. You might as well have prints whilst you are at it.
You could develop it yourself but you'd need a fair amount of equipment - better to let the pros do it.
You then take the negatives and put them through a scanner. You scan the negtives and use the software than came with the scanner to invert the resulting digital images to the correct colours. Epson sell a scanner (can't remember the number) that does this - my Mum has one.
You may even be able to get whoever develops the film to scan it for you - you'll get the images on a DVD/CD.
You can then use the digital image files just as if a digital camera had made them.
What a palaver!
You could develop it yourself but you'd need a fair amount of equipment - better to let the pros do it.
You then take the negatives and put them through a scanner. You scan the negtives and use the software than came with the scanner to invert the resulting digital images to the correct colours. Epson sell a scanner (can't remember the number) that does this - my Mum has one.
You may even be able to get whoever develops the film to scan it for you - you'll get the images on a DVD/CD.
You can then use the digital image files just as if a digital camera had made them.
What a palaver!
There are several different kinds of film, the obvious distinction being black & white vs colour.
Most people use (or used!) colour print film, which is also called colour negative film and uses a process called C41. After exposure the film is developed to make colour negatives, from which prints are made as required - ie it's a two stage process. The strip of negatives is the actual piece of film that wnet in the camera, but developed. You can 'go digital' either by scanning the negatives (but they have an orange base which requires particular software to deal with) or making prints and scanning those - but losing one generation of image quality.
Black and white film works the same way but without the colour. This is the kind of processing that could fairly easily be done at home, using a developing tank to develop the film, and an enlarger to project the image onto photographic paper to make prints. Black and white negatives are easier to scan because there's no colour cast - I've used Photoshop's Invert function with perfectly good results.
The other main kind of film is colour positive film, aka slide or transparency film (E6 process). The film is developed directly and becomes a 'slide' for projection. The bit of film in the slide mount is the same piece of film that was in the camera, just processed and chopped up. Harder to view but higher image quality, and the favourite of 1970s camera geeks for impressing (or boring) their friends with holiday photos. This is parhaps the best kind of film to use for scanning as you have the original quality and resolution.
There are other less popular kinds of film and sizes other than 35mm, but the main thing is to choose the kind of film you want first.
Whilst we are used to changing ISO 'on the fly' with digital cameras, with film this is principally determined by the film as a speed rating called ASA or DIN. 100 ASA is equivalent to 100 ISO so that's easy to grasp.
I've missed bits out but those are the basics. Now you have to figure out how to load it!
Most people use (or used!) colour print film, which is also called colour negative film and uses a process called C41. After exposure the film is developed to make colour negatives, from which prints are made as required - ie it's a two stage process. The strip of negatives is the actual piece of film that wnet in the camera, but developed. You can 'go digital' either by scanning the negatives (but they have an orange base which requires particular software to deal with) or making prints and scanning those - but losing one generation of image quality.
Black and white film works the same way but without the colour. This is the kind of processing that could fairly easily be done at home, using a developing tank to develop the film, and an enlarger to project the image onto photographic paper to make prints. Black and white negatives are easier to scan because there's no colour cast - I've used Photoshop's Invert function with perfectly good results.
The other main kind of film is colour positive film, aka slide or transparency film (E6 process). The film is developed directly and becomes a 'slide' for projection. The bit of film in the slide mount is the same piece of film that was in the camera, just processed and chopped up. Harder to view but higher image quality, and the favourite of 1970s camera geeks for impressing (or boring) their friends with holiday photos. This is parhaps the best kind of film to use for scanning as you have the original quality and resolution.
There are other less popular kinds of film and sizes other than 35mm, but the main thing is to choose the kind of film you want first.
Whilst we are used to changing ISO 'on the fly' with digital cameras, with film this is principally determined by the film as a speed rating called ASA or DIN. 100 ASA is equivalent to 100 ISO so that's easy to grasp.
I've missed bits out but those are the basics. Now you have to figure out how to load it!
Edited by Simpo Two on Tuesday 27th July 10:22
I've been playing around with some old film cameras recently and getting your pictures in digital form is really easy. I just take my undeveloped film down to Jessops and get the negatives plus all my shots scanned onto a disc, I don't bother with getting prints at that stage. Costs about £6 and you get a free roll of (pretty basic) film back too, which can't be bad. Seems they've stopped doing B&W in house (in Brighton at least) but that only means you have to wait a week to get them back rather than same day.
Here's an example of the kind of res you can expect:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/paul_phillpot/sets/72... (mostly test shots to check the cameras are working)
The only issue I've had with a couple of shots is that the scanning has cropped the image (I'm guessing it's done it to all of the shots actually, but it's only been an issue with a few) from the negative. I should have gone back and asked to get htem re-done but I've been too lazy.
You could develop B&W at home but like others have said, it's a bit of a faff and it doesn't cost that much really to get it done at a shop, I guess it depends on how much you're going to shoot and how hands on you want to get. A friend of mine develops all his B&W stuff and loves it. Colour's a different matter as I understand it, although there's a Flickr group here http://www.flickr.com/groups/diy_color/ all about DIY colour developing which will tell you more than I can.
Anyway, going old school has been fun, I wouldn't go back exclusively to film myself, but know others that have and it's a bit of fun every now and then.
Here's an example of the kind of res you can expect:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/paul_phillpot/sets/72... (mostly test shots to check the cameras are working)
The only issue I've had with a couple of shots is that the scanning has cropped the image (I'm guessing it's done it to all of the shots actually, but it's only been an issue with a few) from the negative. I should have gone back and asked to get htem re-done but I've been too lazy.
You could develop B&W at home but like others have said, it's a bit of a faff and it doesn't cost that much really to get it done at a shop, I guess it depends on how much you're going to shoot and how hands on you want to get. A friend of mine develops all his B&W stuff and loves it. Colour's a different matter as I understand it, although there's a Flickr group here http://www.flickr.com/groups/diy_color/ all about DIY colour developing which will tell you more than I can.
Anyway, going old school has been fun, I wouldn't go back exclusively to film myself, but know others that have and it's a bit of fun every now and then.
I've recently done the same - my dad gave me an old Nikon F3 and lens to play with. I didn't have high expectations - thinking the film would have expired and the camera wouldn't work but I took the film along to Boots and for £6.39 I got 25 prints and photo CD and I was pleasantly surprised with the results - sample here: http://picasaweb.google.com/115811330499016964046/...
I've never shot a roll of film where I would want to get back 24 6x4 prints and a photo CD! Certainly not if it cost £6.99 Maybe that's just me.
I've spent a fortune on film and for me the best balance between value and flexibility is as follows:
Buy a cheap film scanner on ebay second hand such as this note: cheap does not mean poor quality - this will provide excellent results.
When you shoot a roll of film, take it somewhere and ask them to PROCESS ONLY - i.e. no prints, no CD nothing but a developed roll of film.
Do a quick scan on your scanner to see if they are any good.
Scan any good ones in higher res, then if you want prints order them online or take a memory card into boots/asda/whatever.
Share them here!
I've spent a fortune on film and for me the best balance between value and flexibility is as follows:
Buy a cheap film scanner on ebay second hand such as this note: cheap does not mean poor quality - this will provide excellent results.
When you shoot a roll of film, take it somewhere and ask them to PROCESS ONLY - i.e. no prints, no CD nothing but a developed roll of film.
Do a quick scan on your scanner to see if they are any good.
Scan any good ones in higher res, then if you want prints order them online or take a memory card into boots/asda/whatever.
Share them here!
Edited by _dobbo_ on Wednesday 18th August 10:06
"Done" entirely depends on the quality of the scans - even if they are good, at the low resoltion Jessops offer you can't do much with them at all.
The "super size" scan is pretty low res and wouldn't stand being printed very large, and at an extra £4 per film you're looking at £12 per film to get not very high resolution scans.
My local place charges me £2 for processing. My scanner cost £40.
The "super size" scan is pretty low res and wouldn't stand being printed very large, and at an extra £4 per film you're looking at £12 per film to get not very high resolution scans.
My local place charges me £2 for processing. My scanner cost £40.
_dobbo_ said:
"Done" entirely depends on the quality of the scans - even if they are good, at the low resoltion Jessops offer you can't do much with them at all.
The "super size" scan is pretty low res and wouldn't stand being printed very large, and at an extra £4 per film you're looking at £12 per film to get not very high resolution scans.
My local place charges me £2 for processing. My scanner cost £40.
take it or leave itThe "super size" scan is pretty low res and wouldn't stand being printed very large, and at an extra £4 per film you're looking at £12 per film to get not very high resolution scans.
My local place charges me £2 for processing. My scanner cost £40.
t, i use fujifilm superia 400 24expHey thanks for the advice guys, just got round to getting the film developed and put on a disc, the results were better than I thought. Here are a few for you to have a little looksie at, these are the best/ones I like the most.
The one main question I now have is whether it is possible to scan them in the computer and have them as a RAW file like my digital photos would be, as opposed to just getting them as jpegs that don't like being tweaked (the photos below are just as they were taken, except maybe a crop or two) or is that kind of post-shoot manipulation possible only in the dark room?
But I'd be interested to hear your thoughts/comments on them.
1
2
3
4
5
The one main question I now have is whether it is possible to scan them in the computer and have them as a RAW file like my digital photos would be, as opposed to just getting them as jpegs that don't like being tweaked (the photos below are just as they were taken, except maybe a crop or two) or is that kind of post-shoot manipulation possible only in the dark room?
But I'd be interested to hear your thoughts/comments on them.
1
2
3
4
5
petrolveins said:
The one main question I now have is whether it is possible to scan them in the computer and have them as a RAW file like my digital photos would be, as opposed to just getting them as jpegs that don't like being tweaked (the photos below are just as they were taken, except maybe a crop or two) or is that kind of post-shoot manipulation possible only in the dark room?
In a way the prints are already 'JPGs', analogue JPGs if you like. The extra information available at the time of shooting has already been lost. For RAW files you could get a digital camera and photograph the prints, but it would be like buying a boat and smashing it up to make raft. Then smashing up the raft and making a smaller one.If you want all the benefits of digital, then... shoot digital
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