Kit Cars- What shall I buy? sub £10k
Discussion
Hi There,
I was lucky enough to be taken out in a bike powered kit car recently similar to the below:
http://www.pistonheads.co.uk/sales/1891005.htm
Is buying a kit car that someone else has built a complete an utter gamble / minefield / moneypit?
I have resigned myself to the fact that there is no point in dragging my road car onto the track when for sub £10k I can have a very good track weapon and actually 'enjoy' track days without fear of binning a £30k car!
Views, feedback and ideas of what to get into for between £7k - £10k.
Many Thanks
I was lucky enough to be taken out in a bike powered kit car recently similar to the below:
http://www.pistonheads.co.uk/sales/1891005.htm
Is buying a kit car that someone else has built a complete an utter gamble / minefield / moneypit?
I have resigned myself to the fact that there is no point in dragging my road car onto the track when for sub £10k I can have a very good track weapon and actually 'enjoy' track days without fear of binning a £30k car!
Views, feedback and ideas of what to get into for between £7k - £10k.
Many Thanks
I have mainly been browsing the net for the MK stuff as it is the kind of kit car I am looking for.
I don't mind getting my hands dirty however that can only happen if I know the origination of the parts etc but hopefully the previous owner or kit builder should know.
There are a few MKs for sale, some with Pinto engines others with bike engines.
Very interesting.
Anything one should look for with MKs?
I don't mind getting my hands dirty however that can only happen if I know the origination of the parts etc but hopefully the previous owner or kit builder should know.
There are a few MKs for sale, some with Pinto engines others with bike engines.
Very interesting.
Anything one should look for with MKs?
Rags said:
Is buying a kit car that someone else has built a complete an utter gamble / minefield / moneypit?
Views, feedback and ideas of what to get into for between £7k - £10k.
1) Not if you go into it with your head and inspect the car (as you would any car). If the car looks shoddy then walk away as you would with a normal car, but anything that has been through the SVA/IVA should be good, as those inspectors can be niggly jobsworths.Views, feedback and ideas of what to get into for between £7k - £10k.
2) That MK looks good to me, as do most of the cars in that section, but for me that Sylva R1ot would be worth a look. Yes it will need an IVA test for use on the road, but if you want a track day toy then this plus a trailer could be a very good bet. The handling of the Riot is supposed to be spectacular plus it isn't yet another 7 clone.
Lost my mojo said:
A very nice car and a good price.
Buying a kit from the original builder shouild be ok, doing that you are entitled to require extensive documentation, and you will want such details as a wiring diagram, location of all the fuses, source of necesary spare parts (often an issue with non-standard engine setups) such as clutches etc.
If you are buying from a subsequent owner then much of that may be missing, and if it is, bear in mind that fixing it as and when necessary is going to be that much more difficult. If it isn't missing and the current owner is knowledgeable then that should be ok.
Much of the work I do is with OTR kit cars that people have bought on ebay etc, and about which neither they, nor the immediately previous owner, have any details. It can add a layer of nusiance value or even downright difficulty that you will want to reduce the amount you pay for it by.
If you are buying from a subsequent owner then much of that may be missing, and if it is, bear in mind that fixing it as and when necessary is going to be that much more difficult. If it isn't missing and the current owner is knowledgeable then that should be ok.
Much of the work I do is with OTR kit cars that people have bought on ebay etc, and about which neither they, nor the immediately previous owner, have any details. It can add a layer of nusiance value or even downright difficulty that you will want to reduce the amount you pay for it by.
singlecoil said:
Buying a kit from the original builder shouild be ok, doing that you are entitled to require extensive documentation, and you will want such details as a wiring diagram, location of all the fuses, source of necesary spare parts (often an issue with non-standard engine setups) such as clutches etc.
If you are buying from a subsequent owner then much of that may be missing, and if it is, bear in mind that fixing it as and when necessary is going to be that much more difficult. If it isn't missing and the current owner is knowledgeable then that should be ok.
Much of the work I do is with OTR kit cars that people have bought on ebay etc, and about which neither they, nor the immediately previous owner, have any details. It can add a layer of nusiance value or even downright difficulty that you will want to reduce the amount you pay for it by.
Thats an interesting point.If you are buying from a subsequent owner then much of that may be missing, and if it is, bear in mind that fixing it as and when necessary is going to be that much more difficult. If it isn't missing and the current owner is knowledgeable then that should be ok.
Much of the work I do is with OTR kit cars that people have bought on ebay etc, and about which neither they, nor the immediately previous owner, have any details. It can add a layer of nusiance value or even downright difficulty that you will want to reduce the amount you pay for it by.
I have seen a few MK cars advertised and some reputed 'built from factory' so will angle for one of those!
Rags said:
I have seen a few MK cars advertised and some reputed 'built from factory' so will angle for one of those!
I'm not sure I would, I expect they've built quite a few, but they would all have been to individual customer requirements and may not be properly documented. Factory built wouldn't put me off, but wouldn't necessarily excite me either. Just look for a well, and neatly built car with documentation (or at least a very conventional build) and you should be ok.
After much searching/viewing/test riding I went for a Mac#1 ZX10R Worx - this on in fact http://www.pistonheads.com/sales/1850493.htm which for all intents is brand new
The Mac's have bushed mounts which I liked - eg the engine is not bolted directly to the chassis reducing vibration and possible fatigue.
After sales back-up from the Mac guys is spot on too which counts for alot
The Mac's have bushed mounts which I liked - eg the engine is not bolted directly to the chassis reducing vibration and possible fatigue.
After sales back-up from the Mac guys is spot on too which counts for alot
Edited by bonesX on Friday 30th July 07:32
The thing about low volume manufacturing - particularly when it's left to the punters to do - is it varies. Some are works of art that would disgrace all but the best production cars. Some... aren't.
Following the introduction of the SVA/IVA (and general modernisation of the kit car industry) most are pretty sound. Basically look for someone who seems to know what they're talking about and has a suitably methodical/professional approach rather than a bodger.
Don't confine yourself to a particular make and, for that matter, I'd be tempted to suggest not confining yourself to BEC either. Turst me, a similar car with a 200-odd bhp Zetec, for example, won't be slow either. It's also worth looking into the amount of support out there and the supply of spare parts. It can be a tremendous help if you have knowledgable, helpful owners ready to lend a hand and, similarly, being able to buy most of the parts 'off the shelf' from a common source (i.e. something which has a relatively small number of donors) can be very useful. Searching around trying indentify a part from an obscur donor vehicle can be a nightmare.
It's also worth sussing out the company that made the original kit and any other suppliers - do they seem helpful? Are they likely to be around for the duration of your ownership?
Following the introduction of the SVA/IVA (and general modernisation of the kit car industry) most are pretty sound. Basically look for someone who seems to know what they're talking about and has a suitably methodical/professional approach rather than a bodger.
Don't confine yourself to a particular make and, for that matter, I'd be tempted to suggest not confining yourself to BEC either. Turst me, a similar car with a 200-odd bhp Zetec, for example, won't be slow either. It's also worth looking into the amount of support out there and the supply of spare parts. It can be a tremendous help if you have knowledgable, helpful owners ready to lend a hand and, similarly, being able to buy most of the parts 'off the shelf' from a common source (i.e. something which has a relatively small number of donors) can be very useful. Searching around trying indentify a part from an obscur donor vehicle can be a nightmare.
It's also worth sussing out the company that made the original kit and any other suppliers - do they seem helpful? Are they likely to be around for the duration of your ownership?
I'm not too fussed about losing a couple of grand on an 8k car but don't want to be forever paying out for fixing it.
That blue Indy has really taken my fancy.
Question for you guys, I don't have the luxury of a garage anymore but have underground parking etc. Do you feel that you need to be able to constantly tinker with the car or can you almost treat it like a normal sports car ie over enthusiastic oil change frequency every 3k?
That blue Indy has really taken my fancy.
Question for you guys, I don't have the luxury of a garage anymore but have underground parking etc. Do you feel that you need to be able to constantly tinker with the car or can you almost treat it like a normal sports car ie over enthusiastic oil change frequency every 3k?
Rags said:
I'm not too fussed about losing a couple of grand on an 8k car but don't want to be forever paying out for fixing it.
That blue Indy has really taken my fancy.
Question for you guys, I don't have the luxury of a garage anymore but have underground parking etc. Do you feel that you need to be able to constantly tinker with the car or can you almost treat it like a normal sports car ie over enthusiastic oil change frequency every 3k?
My only advice would be to read up on the various pros and cons of biker vs car engine KCs. It's been done to death on here so have a quick search.That blue Indy has really taken my fancy.
Question for you guys, I don't have the luxury of a garage anymore but have underground parking etc. Do you feel that you need to be able to constantly tinker with the car or can you almost treat it like a normal sports car ie over enthusiastic oil change frequency every 3k?
The other thing is that KC chassis coatings are generally appalling. Make sure the chassis and wishbones are in good condition when you buy as it's a PITA having to strip the car back for a repaint - although I guess it depends if you enjoy the tinkering??
jason61c said:
EFA said:
Buy a Caterham. Buy wisely and you will always get most of your money back. Buy very wisely and you'll turn a profit.
however if you do get a caterham you'll get an old low spec one with an average engine etc for the same amount of cash.Would this http://www.pistonheads.com/sales/1918662.htm fit your bill?
This car was a joint father/son build, and the twin of the one I have just bought from the father.
The build quality is the best you will find anywhere, never been on track, driven sensibly (tyres have no feathering at all), and all in the super lightweight Mac#1 chassis - all told 430Kg
This car was a joint father/son build, and the twin of the one I have just bought from the father.
The build quality is the best you will find anywhere, never been on track, driven sensibly (tyres have no feathering at all), and all in the super lightweight Mac#1 chassis - all told 430Kg
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