Discussion
Just remember when using clay to have lots of lubrication....it really does make the job so much more simple.
Polish, depends upon your car, its age and the condition of the paintwork. Do you want something filler heavy or someting to clean and protect?
Buy some Poorboys Black Hole Glaze and then top off with something like Dodo Juice Blue Velvet or Collinite 915.
Polish, depends upon your car, its age and the condition of the paintwork. Do you want something filler heavy or someting to clean and protect?
Buy some Poorboys Black Hole Glaze and then top off with something like Dodo Juice Blue Velvet or Collinite 915.
To clay a car should take you 40-45 minutes. Regarding the polish I would go with something like Autoglym Super Resin Polish or Chemical Guys Pro Polish +, both are simple to use by hand.
A decent glaze will help the paintwork on your car but offers NO protection. Top off with a couple of coats of wax and Dodo Juice make both soft and hard waxes. Most waxes can be applied quite quickly, just have a good supply of sponge applicators and keep the hard wax warm. Collinite waxes are simple to apply as is Finish Kare Paste Wax.
A decent glaze will help the paintwork on your car but offers NO protection. Top off with a couple of coats of wax and Dodo Juice make both soft and hard waxes. Most waxes can be applied quite quickly, just have a good supply of sponge applicators and keep the hard wax warm. Collinite waxes are simple to apply as is Finish Kare Paste Wax.
Like said theres so meny combo's it all depends what you are wanting to achieve along with removal or filling the defects. If your just doing it all by hand then i recommend poorboys black hole glaze for your glaze. this will lighten any of the swirls while giving a sharp glass finish. Or go with dodo juice lime prime for a polish. Though it is a prewax cleaner, it does have micro abrasives within, so is very good to use as a one step product before using a wax. Then my wax of choice on a budget would be dodo juice blue velvet hard wax. Very easy to use and good, if you keep the paintwork topped up with it. If your not on a budget thats a different story altogether.
Regards Michael
Regards Michael
finaly back in the country.cheers for the advice ive just put a order in online for blit hammer clay auto glem super resin polish and dodo juice purple haze.
plan is when the weather is clear.
1 wash using auto glem shampoo
2 dry
3 clay
4 rinse
5 polish with srp
6 wax with dodo purple haze.
hopefully with abit of elbow grease she will come out gleaming.
plan is when the weather is clear.
1 wash using auto glem shampoo
2 dry
3 clay
4 rinse
5 polish with srp
6 wax with dodo purple haze.
hopefully with abit of elbow grease she will come out gleaming.
the bilt hammer says you dont need lub.
ive just got home and see the car.2 months worth off dirt my better half has nicely added.plus i can see how much of a rush job i did last time little bits of polish have started to appear im embarsed.just gotta wait till monday till all my new gear tips up.
ive just got home and see the car.2 months worth off dirt my better half has nicely added.plus i can see how much of a rush job i did last time little bits of polish have started to appear im embarsed.just gotta wait till monday till all my new gear tips up.
H13BSM said:
Just a word of advice buddy, don't dry the car after washing/before claying. You want the paint as wet as possible when claying. So having a wet car, and clay lube will work a treat and will minimize marring the paint from the claying stage.
Regards Michael
personally i would recommend drying the car properly then treating the flanks with a tar remover prior to claying Regards Michael
this will stop your clay getting clogged up very quickly with tar deposits
paul
If you use tar remover before claying you will need to make sure any excess tar remover is cleaned from the car before you clay because tar remover will destroy/melt your clay bar, the majority of the tar remover should evaporate but any excess in panel gaps will need to be removed
Ian
Ian
Edited by Detailed Image on Sunday 8th August 09:35
pwpro said:
H13BSM said:
Just a word of advice buddy, don't dry the car after washing/before claying. You want the paint as wet as possible when claying. So having a wet car, and clay lube will work a treat and will minimize marring the paint from the claying stage.
Regards Michael
personally i would recommend drying the car properly then treating the flanks with a tar remover prior to claying Regards Michael
this will stop your clay getting clogged up very quickly with tar deposits
paul
H13BSM said:
pwpro said:
H13BSM said:
Just a word of advice buddy, don't dry the car after washing/before claying. You want the paint as wet as possible when claying. So having a wet car, and clay lube will work a treat and will minimize marring the paint from the claying stage.
Regards Michael
personally i would recommend drying the car properly then treating the flanks with a tar remover prior to claying Regards Michael
this will stop your clay getting clogged up very quickly with tar deposits
paul
in truth had a tar remover been used they wouldn't have half the amount of mess to deal with
using something like autosmarts tardis will very quickly remove the deposits i mean literally 5 minutes per side !!
its just the right way to do things
paul
I appriciate this if again, the cars you work on are covered in tar spots, But I believe its most definitely not 'a must' everytime you detail a car. I mean the guy who started the thread never said his car was covered in tar. Tardis should be used as a spot cleaner, not a one step product. Great way to strip the lsp off though, covering the lower of the car in tardis everytime? But everyone to there own.
H13BSM said:
I appriciate this if again, the cars you work on are covered in tar spots, But I believe its most definitely not 'a must' everytime you detail a car. I mean the guy who started the thread never said his car was covered in tar. Tardis should be used as a spot cleaner, not a one step product. Great way to strip the lsp off though, covering the lower of the car in tardis everytime? But everyone to there own.
personally i remove all tar traces from every car i detail i wouldn't consider a car to be detailed properly unless this was achieved as far as any concerns regarding removal of wax etc claying will do that also
are you looking at this from a maintenance wash point of view or an annual / bi annual detailing approach ?
paul
pwpro said:
H13BSM said:
I appriciate this if again, the cars you work on are covered in tar spots, But I believe its most definitely not 'a must' everytime you detail a car. I mean the guy who started the thread never said his car was covered in tar. Tardis should be used as a spot cleaner, not a one step product. Great way to strip the lsp off though, covering the lower of the car in tardis everytime? But everyone to there own.
personally i remove all tar traces from every car i detail i wouldn't consider a car to be detailed properly unless this was achieved as far as any concerns regarding removal of wax etc claying will do that also
are you looking at this from a maintenance wash point of view or an annual / bi annual detailing approach ?
paul
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