Discussion
Amplifier in the boot just below the fuse box.
Car PC in the boot above the fuel tank.
Single DIN flip out touch screen in the radio slot.
I have installed additional wiring to extend the ECU serial plug back to the PC in the boot and bring a GPS receiver and Bluetooth dongle into the cabin under the parcel shelf. There is also a microphone input brought forward to the drivers 'A' pillar and a couple of spare USB connectors under the cubbyhole for a keyboard if needed and a micro card reader for camera cards.
There is a wireless network card in the PC for accessing it from my study while the car is in the drive and I have wired a separate rf remote control for turning the PC on and off or rebooting it without going out to the car.
The PC is running Centrafuse as an integrated front end. That hosts PC Navigator 10 for navigation, its own Bluetooth phone integration, the ECU diagnostic software and 500Gb music (not that I ever listen to it), picture and video browsing.
Car PC in the boot above the fuel tank.
Single DIN flip out touch screen in the radio slot.
I have installed additional wiring to extend the ECU serial plug back to the PC in the boot and bring a GPS receiver and Bluetooth dongle into the cabin under the parcel shelf. There is also a microphone input brought forward to the drivers 'A' pillar and a couple of spare USB connectors under the cubbyhole for a keyboard if needed and a micro card reader for camera cards.
There is a wireless network card in the PC for accessing it from my study while the car is in the drive and I have wired a separate rf remote control for turning the PC on and off or rebooting it without going out to the car.
The PC is running Centrafuse as an integrated front end. That hosts PC Navigator 10 for navigation, its own Bluetooth phone integration, the ECU diagnostic software and 500Gb music (not that I ever listen to it), picture and video browsing.
morebeanz said:
Blimey! That sounds quite a rig!
Is a PC in the car really necessary?
No, not necessary at all. Is a PC in the car really necessary?

Just the easiest way of integrating navigation, live trafic info, hands free phone, 500Gb of music, video playback for sprinting, GPS car tracking, ECU diagnostics and (shortly to come) data logging.

ETA - Easiest at least partly because there is bugger all room up front to hide any of it.
When I was doing the interior and had it all out I threaded a cord the length of the transmission tunnel under the console. It makes it dead easy to pull additional wires through as needed.
Edited by Tanguero on Tuesday 3rd August 14:09
Byker28i said:
Too much weight 
I have a JVD dvd head unit, with the DAB radio add on box velcroed to the passenger floor on top of the ecu. I then have a pioneer underseat subwoofer under the helmet holder. I picked up a spare helmet holder and trimmed the bottom to fit.
Good point about the ECU space, and it would avoid the threading through the console pain.
I have a JVD dvd head unit, with the DAB radio add on box velcroed to the passenger floor on top of the ecu. I then have a pioneer underseat subwoofer under the helmet holder. I picked up a spare helmet holder and trimmed the bottom to fit.
Can you not just tap in to the main feed to the fuse box? If I recall that is about that size.
The main live feed run is from the battery, through the bulkhead above the passenger footwell, along the door sill, up over the wheel arch into the boot then across the boot behind the fuel tank.
The main live feed run is from the battery, through the bulkhead above the passenger footwell, along the door sill, up over the wheel arch into the boot then across the boot behind the fuel tank.
Edited by Tanguero on Saturday 9th October 10:28
Didn't know it existed? I will probably be pulling around 35A, nothing massive its only a small amplifier and will use the same feed for the trickle charger, but need to make sure its fused at the front? I'm guessing it goes through the 100A fuse up front?
And while we are on the subject, before I start working on the car, how to I get the door cards off?
And while we are on the subject, before I start working on the car, how to I get the door cards off?
Edited by tejr on Saturday 9th October 11:12
The fuse panel is only held in with one bolt. Undo that and you can ease the whole thing forward. DISCONNECT THE BATTERY FIRST!
The main feed is fairly obvious. I can't remember if there was a spare spade or solder pad - but I didn't have any trouble taking an amplifier feed from it. You can route your cable either out beside the back light or go up the other way and out by the top of the wheel arch. Tripple jointed elbows are an advantage.
I put an additional fuse between the amp and the main feed. The big fuse is in the charging circuit only and does not protect the main fuse box feed.
The door cards come off when you undo the countersunk hex screws that hold them on...
The main feed is fairly obvious. I can't remember if there was a spare spade or solder pad - but I didn't have any trouble taking an amplifier feed from it. You can route your cable either out beside the back light or go up the other way and out by the top of the wheel arch. Tripple jointed elbows are an advantage.
I put an additional fuse between the amp and the main feed. The big fuse is in the charging circuit only and does not protect the main fuse box feed.
The door cards come off when you undo the countersunk hex screws that hold them on...
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