Replacing the Rear Discs
Discussion
quote:
As someone with limited mechanical experience is it best leaving the job to a specialist?
I'd say yes, best leave this to somebody who knows what they're doing. Normally it's relatively straightforward to replace brakes but it's a lot harder on the wedge because of the inboard brakes.
Before you give up and pay an extortionate rate to a garage, i'd say give it a try first. as long as you have a basic mechanical awareness and sympathy i'm sure you wont break anything.(Just don't take a 10lb Club hammer in there with you!)
I've owned a P6 V8 Rover for 12 years now and found a much better way of changing the inboard rear pads and discs than quoted in the Haynes manual [First disconnect battery!!].
When you remove the four driveshaft to disc hub locking nuts(Order some new ones from Jag or Wedge automotive first)it may be possible to pull the disc off of the four studs by squeezing the caliper pistons back with the disc in place to leave enough of an angle so the discs just drop out. Although the P6 rover does not have separate handbrake pads and mechanical caliper, I'm sure removing these should not cause a problem. Good luck
Andy
I've owned a P6 V8 Rover for 12 years now and found a much better way of changing the inboard rear pads and discs than quoted in the Haynes manual [First disconnect battery!!].
When you remove the four driveshaft to disc hub locking nuts(Order some new ones from Jag or Wedge automotive first)it may be possible to pull the disc off of the four studs by squeezing the caliper pistons back with the disc in place to leave enough of an angle so the discs just drop out. Although the P6 rover does not have separate handbrake pads and mechanical caliper, I'm sure removing these should not cause a problem. Good luck
Andy
It is covered in detail in the bible and having done it several times... I'll get someone else to do it the next.
The first approach is do you or do you not leave the drive shaft in the hub carrier. If you do you need to strip the suspension but you don't need to worry about the hub nut. If you remove the shaft from the carrier you do. Also be aware that there are several types of brake discs. Go for the later Xj6 with a solid edge as the scalloped edge have been known to break and jam in the calliper. Happened to me on a sprint when I did an abrupt involuntary handbrake turn.
Other problem can be undoing the retaining nuts on the disc - I have known people welding bars onto them to get the leverage to free them.
Steve
The first approach is do you or do you not leave the drive shaft in the hub carrier. If you do you need to strip the suspension but you don't need to worry about the hub nut. If you remove the shaft from the carrier you do. Also be aware that there are several types of brake discs. Go for the later Xj6 with a solid edge as the scalloped edge have been known to break and jam in the calliper. Happened to me on a sprint when I did an abrupt involuntary handbrake turn.
Other problem can be undoing the retaining nuts on the disc - I have known people welding bars onto them to get the leverage to free them.
Steve
If your near Leicester try Simon at 'Skeggs', an independant Jaguar specialist, Tel 0116 2751109. My 350 was in for the front brakes being upgraded when I was told the rears need doing
All sorted with proper parts and the camber adjusted and it stops better than ever!
I can recommend Simon for any TVR work, he even sorts Ferrari's when the dealer has spent all the customers money getting nowhere.
Tell Simon "Mark sent you"

All sorted with proper parts and the camber adjusted and it stops better than ever!
I can recommend Simon for any TVR work, he even sorts Ferrari's when the dealer has spent all the customers money getting nowhere.
Tell Simon "Mark sent you"

I tip you might try which is how I changed my rear discs is not to remove the caliper from the diff but split it instead. It is held together with 4 x 1/2" or 13mm socket size bolts, 2 above the brake piston 2 below. There are no seals between the two halfs of the caliper as fluid is transferred via an interconnecting brake pipe,easily seen at the top of the caliper, you need to remove this pipe.Also you will need to remove the hand brake mechanism as well. Doing it this way means you don't have to struggle with the 2 large wired bolts attaching the caliper to the diff. Be warned for what ever method you choose you must have good quality ring spanners and sockets + tommy bar as clearances are very limited.
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