poorly mazda..
Discussion
She isnt being used much at the moment, so its more my fault than hers.
Tried to start her up on the drive the other day and no joy, tick tick tick etc. Tried to trickle charge the battery - again no joy. So replaced the battery and she fired up first time.
Fast forward a couple of weeks and same problem, tick tick tick. So what are we looking at - starter motor, alternator?
The bugger is that she is uninsured and untaxed - so can't drive her at the moment...
Tried to start her up on the drive the other day and no joy, tick tick tick etc. Tried to trickle charge the battery - again no joy. So replaced the battery and she fired up first time.
Fast forward a couple of weeks and same problem, tick tick tick. So what are we looking at - starter motor, alternator?
The bugger is that she is uninsured and untaxed - so can't drive her at the moment...
Mine used to go through a battery in a couple of weeks if it wasn't used, especially if the battery itself wasn't quite 100%. I reckoned the early '90s aftermarket and immobiliser on mine would have had something to do with the amount of current drain, but ended up "solving" the problem by using the car regularly and disconnecting the battery if I wasn't.
ps. tick-tick-tick at high frequency was exactly the noise it made.
ps. tick-tick-tick at high frequency was exactly the noise it made.
Edited by Timberwolf on Monday 9th August 21:43
Yep, sounds like a flat battery again, though it might be worth checking the battery earth connection too.
Your new battery has possibly been sat on a shelf for a while, a few months possibly, and then if your new battery has had to start your car a couple of times without recieivng a good charge, then sat for a couple of weeks without use, it's possibly no longer has enough charge.
Thing is modern batteries really don't like sitting in a low state of charge foir long, so i'd suggest charge the battery and give the car a good drive, or at least take the battery off the car and charge it up properly and keep the battery indoors untilo the car is able to be used properly again.
Your new battery has possibly been sat on a shelf for a while, a few months possibly, and then if your new battery has had to start your car a couple of times without recieivng a good charge, then sat for a couple of weeks without use, it's possibly no longer has enough charge.
Thing is modern batteries really don't like sitting in a low state of charge foir long, so i'd suggest charge the battery and give the car a good drive, or at least take the battery off the car and charge it up properly and keep the battery indoors untilo the car is able to be used properly again.
whats odd is that the other battery lasted 6 months with the car being started and moved around the drive for a few mins each week.
Is the new battery buggered (it's two weeks old) or should it take a charge? The old one was charged for a fews days to no avail...
I s'pose I should be grateful if its only a 50 quid battery and not a 300 quid alternator!
Is the new battery buggered (it's two weeks old) or should it take a charge? The old one was charged for a fews days to no avail...
I s'pose I should be grateful if its only a 50 quid battery and not a 300 quid alternator!
NeoVR said:
What kind of battery did you get?.. is it a proper gel battery or a cheapo normal batt?
if its a proper gel battery it can take a fair while of driving to charge fully (something about onions and layers lol), and they do not take kindly to being put on trickle chargers either.
cheapo normal battery - I would expect it to last longer than 2 weeks to be honest - although I know it is down to me given the car is off the road etc..if its a proper gel battery it can take a fair while of driving to charge fully (something about onions and layers lol), and they do not take kindly to being put on trickle chargers either.
I dont think so.. how would I find out?
ETA a rather terse email from the battery co saying they will collect and test the battery but if it is found to not be faulty they will charge me 20 odd quid for return costs and delivery.
Given I have confirmation from my garage that the battery (after a week on trickle charge off the car) remained flat (and it wouldnt start after a jump start), I am at a bit of a loss who to trust..
ETA a rather terse email from the battery co saying they will collect and test the battery but if it is found to not be faulty they will charge me 20 odd quid for return costs and delivery.
Given I have confirmation from my garage that the battery (after a week on trickle charge off the car) remained flat (and it wouldnt start after a jump start), I am at a bit of a loss who to trust..
Edited by princeperch on Sunday 15th August 18:14
I would say deffo battery or a charge/drain problem.I didn't start mine for 2 months last year and it fired up first time.I also left the lights on at work for 9 hours (not the main headlamps) and it started ok, just a fraction slower than normal.
On the other hand, I had a dead cell once on an Audi A4 and I could have wired that to a pylon and it wouldn't have helped.
On the other hand, I had a dead cell once on an Audi A4 and I could have wired that to a pylon and it wouldn't have helped.
Prince Perch - whereabouts are you? I have a battery load tester and should be able to ascertain whether the battery is dead or not. It may hold charge and seem to be at 12.x volts but when cranking it might not be able to put out the current.
Not quite sure how to test for a current drain - in essence you need to put an ammeter in line with the battery and see if there is a large current being pulled - need beefy wires though, not sure a normal multimeter is up to it - and for God's sake don't try to crank the engine or you will fry the multimeter! Old ammeters needed plumbing inline with thick cable but I think you can get digital ones now that work in a different way - perhaps worth the investment. Most garages should be able to test for current drain (often alarm/immobiliser or the boot light not switching off).
Not quite sure how to test for a current drain - in essence you need to put an ammeter in line with the battery and see if there is a large current being pulled - need beefy wires though, not sure a normal multimeter is up to it - and for God's sake don't try to crank the engine or you will fry the multimeter! Old ammeters needed plumbing inline with thick cable but I think you can get digital ones now that work in a different way - perhaps worth the investment. Most garages should be able to test for current drain (often alarm/immobiliser or the boot light not switching off).
NiceCupOfTea said:
Prince Perch - whereabouts are you? I have a battery load tester and should be able to ascertain whether the battery is dead or not. It may hold charge and seem to be at 12.x volts but when cranking it might not be able to put out the current.
Not quite sure how to test for a current drain - in essence you need to put an ammeter in line with the battery and see if there is a large current being pulled - need beefy wires though, not sure a normal multimeter is up to it - and for God's sake don't try to crank the engine or you will fry the multimeter! Old ammeters needed plumbing inline with thick cable but I think you can get digital ones now that work in a different way - perhaps worth the investment. Most garages should be able to test for current drain (often alarm/immobiliser or the boot light not switching off).
I'm everywhere...East London, Essex and Herts. Not quite sure how to test for a current drain - in essence you need to put an ammeter in line with the battery and see if there is a large current being pulled - need beefy wires though, not sure a normal multimeter is up to it - and for God's sake don't try to crank the engine or you will fry the multimeter! Old ammeters needed plumbing inline with thick cable but I think you can get digital ones now that work in a different way - perhaps worth the investment. Most garages should be able to test for current drain (often alarm/immobiliser or the boot light not switching off).
I think thats the issue, the garage said it had 12 odd volts, but this wasnt enough under when under load to start.
This seems like it is going to be a bit of a ball ache to solve. The car is uninsured and untaxed and cant be driven..and now cant be started.
I'm in SE London - if I'm over your way in the next few days will drop you a line (ironically I was today!) if you want me to test the battery.
Alternatively, battery loads testers are fairly cheap (30 quid?) from Machine Mart and the like. If you have a decent auto factor they will check it for you gratis.
Could you borrow a 12v battery to try it in your car? That narrows it down to charging circuit or knackered battery. If you can start it with a booster, use a multimeter to check the voltage over the battery to check whether the battery is charging (should be 13.5-14 volts).
Alternatively, battery loads testers are fairly cheap (30 quid?) from Machine Mart and the like. If you have a decent auto factor they will check it for you gratis.
Could you borrow a 12v battery to try it in your car? That narrows it down to charging circuit or knackered battery. If you can start it with a booster, use a multimeter to check the voltage over the battery to check whether the battery is charging (should be 13.5-14 volts).
NiceCupOfTea said:
I'm in SE London - if I'm over your way in the next few days will drop you a line (ironically I was today!) if you want me to test the battery.
Alternatively, battery loads testers are fairly cheap (30 quid?) from Machine Mart and the like. If you have a decent auto factor they will check it for you gratis.
Could you borrow a 12v battery to try it in your car? That narrows it down to charging circuit or knackered battery. If you can start it with a booster, use a multimeter to check the voltage over the battery to check whether the battery is charging (should be 13.5-14 volts).
all good points gratefully taken on board NCOTAlternatively, battery loads testers are fairly cheap (30 quid?) from Machine Mart and the like. If you have a decent auto factor they will check it for you gratis.
Could you borrow a 12v battery to try it in your car? That narrows it down to charging circuit or knackered battery. If you can start it with a booster, use a multimeter to check the voltage over the battery to check whether the battery is charging (should be 13.5-14 volts).
Gassing Station | Mazda MX5/Roadster/Miata | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff