Lantra failed MOT... How can i resolve?
Discussion
My Lantra just failed its MOT, Don#t really want to sell as it only has 55k on the clock, anyway here is the reasons for failure
Reason(s) for refusal to issue Certificate
1- Nearside Front Front constant velocity joint gaiter split (2.5.C.1a
2- Offside Front Tyre tread depth below requirements of 1.6mm (4.1.E.1)
3- Offside Rear Trailing arm has excessive play in a pin/bush (2.4.G.3)
4- Nearside Rear Wheel cylinder leaking (3.6.A.1) **DANGEROUS**
5- Service brake efficiency below requirements (3.7.A.9)
6- Parking brake efficiency below requirements (3.7.A.10)
1 - I know how to do this
2 - Tyre Change
3 - ??
4 - Drum Cylinder?
5 - Normal brake pad?
6 - Parking brake pad?
Any help would be appreciated
Cheers
Lee
Reason(s) for refusal to issue Certificate
1- Nearside Front Front constant velocity joint gaiter split (2.5.C.1a
2- Offside Front Tyre tread depth below requirements of 1.6mm (4.1.E.1)
3- Offside Rear Trailing arm has excessive play in a pin/bush (2.4.G.3)
4- Nearside Rear Wheel cylinder leaking (3.6.A.1) **DANGEROUS**
5- Service brake efficiency below requirements (3.7.A.9)
6- Parking brake efficiency below requirements (3.7.A.10)
1 - I know how to do this
2 - Tyre Change
3 - ??
4 - Drum Cylinder?
5 - Normal brake pad?
6 - Parking brake pad?
Any help would be appreciated
Cheers
Lee
For 3, the trailing arm bush will be split or worn, so you'll need to undo relavant suspension components to get the trailing arm out, so the bush can be changed.
The brake cylinder will need changing, not hard, but make sure you don't snap/round off any bolts or nuts. Try using flare spanners. Clean the drum out with boiling water, and make sure you give it a good sanding with some emery paper. If it's really been pissing out, you might have to change the shoes, which will mean doing it on both sides. If it's just a little bit, then you might get away with cleaning them with boiling water and roughing them up with some emery paper.
The parking brake will probably be a result of the cylinder leaking and causing the pads to have no friction.
The brake cylinder will need changing, not hard, but make sure you don't snap/round off any bolts or nuts. Try using flare spanners. Clean the drum out with boiling water, and make sure you give it a good sanding with some emery paper. If it's really been pissing out, you might have to change the shoes, which will mean doing it on both sides. If it's just a little bit, then you might get away with cleaning them with boiling water and roughing them up with some emery paper.
The parking brake will probably be a result of the cylinder leaking and causing the pads to have no friction.
ldjh1985 said:
3- Offside Rear Trailing arm has excessive play in a pin/bush (2.4.G.3)
You either need to replace the bush or if they are not available seperatly the suspension arm. Replacing a complete arm is normaly a whole lot easier than changing a bush.ldjh1985 said:
4- Nearside Rear Wheel cylinder leaking (3.6.A.1) **DANGEROUS**
5- Service brake efficiency below requirements (3.7.A.9)
6- Parking brake efficiency below requirements (3.7.A.10)
5 and 6 are probably all related to 4! If you have a wheel cylinder leaking so heavily it can be spotted on the MOT ie without taking the drum off, then the brake shoes will be coated in brake fluid. 5- Service brake efficiency below requirements (3.7.A.9)
6- Parking brake efficiency below requirements (3.7.A.10)
You need to strip out the rear drums, replace the shoes on both sides and NS wheel cylinder, you might also find the cylinder on the Off side has had it too.
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