clutch replacement access, help please
Discussion
Hi fellow S enthusisats, I could use some information, would really appreciate having a few facts to phone my garage with tommorow morning
I recently purchased a S3 2.9 V6 88k mileage, was difficult to select reverse gear about two weeks after I collected it, but all forward gears where good, then became gradually harder to get forward gears, have put it into my local garage who where always good with last car and owner said he had done some work on TVRs years ago & would be glad to have a go.
He said clutch hydraulics activating ok so looks like a clutch replacement, but he is struggling to get access when I called to check progress, he called some TVR garages and some said take engine forward out of the way to get access other's said access from underneath, but he reckons he cant get into from the underside, can anyone advise how to access a clutch replacement?
also I have been trying to search the S series forums for almost two hours for clutch info with no luck, but there does seem to be some differing advice on what clutch to order, garage owner reckoned Granada standard, is there only one type, some posts suggested Capri 2.8, and some mentioned issues with rivets contacting the flywheel & causing slippage after a few thousand miles, would welcome any experienced advice to clarify what parts I should settle on, based in Edinburgh so not too many specialists around here, looking forward to getting it fixed now as its been two weeks waiting for garage & one week at the garage, 3 weeks of summer ive missed!
cheers
I recently purchased a S3 2.9 V6 88k mileage, was difficult to select reverse gear about two weeks after I collected it, but all forward gears where good, then became gradually harder to get forward gears, have put it into my local garage who where always good with last car and owner said he had done some work on TVRs years ago & would be glad to have a go.
He said clutch hydraulics activating ok so looks like a clutch replacement, but he is struggling to get access when I called to check progress, he called some TVR garages and some said take engine forward out of the way to get access other's said access from underneath, but he reckons he cant get into from the underside, can anyone advise how to access a clutch replacement?
also I have been trying to search the S series forums for almost two hours for clutch info with no luck, but there does seem to be some differing advice on what clutch to order, garage owner reckoned Granada standard, is there only one type, some posts suggested Capri 2.8, and some mentioned issues with rivets contacting the flywheel & causing slippage after a few thousand miles, would welcome any experienced advice to clarify what parts I should settle on, based in Edinburgh so not too many specialists around here, looking forward to getting it fixed now as its been two weeks waiting for garage & one week at the garage, 3 weeks of summer ive missed!
cheers
Oooh, where to start.
There are threads on here which may help. I am sure someone will be along to point them out.
I have not long done mine (1991 S3C 2.9 V6) and it does come out from the bottom. I really struggled to get the box past the chassis where the gearbox mount is located and ground a small piece off the side webbings to aid refitting the box.
To remove it I pushed the box rearwards as far as possible and managed to remove the clutch and flywheel in situ. This then gave me enough room to get the box out. Some have had no problems and some do have problems. My opinion is there may be chassis tolerence differences as I have had many gearboxes out of different vehicles over the years, but this one was a bit of a mare. Rear diff needs dropping to get the propshaft off prior to this (quite easy though).
From what I could find out clutch wise, the two things to check are the number of splines on the clutch plate and the physical size of the clutch bearing. I used Unipart No GCK482A/Valeo for the clutch kit with no issues on clutch to flywheel clearance. I also used gearbox oil from the local Land Rover dealer. MTF 94 used on mark 1 Freelanders Part No STC9158. Gearchange is smooth.
Clutch slave cylinder replaced - Series 3 Land Rover and 7/16th union then needed to fit the new cylinder(£10 of the bay for the cylinder).
Hope this helps? Stew.
There are threads on here which may help. I am sure someone will be along to point them out.
I have not long done mine (1991 S3C 2.9 V6) and it does come out from the bottom. I really struggled to get the box past the chassis where the gearbox mount is located and ground a small piece off the side webbings to aid refitting the box.
To remove it I pushed the box rearwards as far as possible and managed to remove the clutch and flywheel in situ. This then gave me enough room to get the box out. Some have had no problems and some do have problems. My opinion is there may be chassis tolerence differences as I have had many gearboxes out of different vehicles over the years, but this one was a bit of a mare. Rear diff needs dropping to get the propshaft off prior to this (quite easy though).
From what I could find out clutch wise, the two things to check are the number of splines on the clutch plate and the physical size of the clutch bearing. I used Unipart No GCK482A/Valeo for the clutch kit with no issues on clutch to flywheel clearance. I also used gearbox oil from the local Land Rover dealer. MTF 94 used on mark 1 Freelanders Part No STC9158. Gearchange is smooth.
Clutch slave cylinder replaced - Series 3 Land Rover and 7/16th union then needed to fit the new cylinder(£10 of the bay for the cylinder).
Hope this helps? Stew.
Hello, I am new owner of a S3C from some months ago and I also thought there was a problem with the clutch from my car and the last thing I would do,was replacing the clutch.
To resume, reverse and first gear sometimes almost impossible to engage without an horrible noise from the gearbox.
So I checked all I could check, and finally found that the rod from pedal to master cyl was not locked (pedal touch the body and do not disengage the clutch completely) and the same for the slave cyl rod.
Also the upper fixing bolt for the slave cylinder fixing was loose, which allowed the cyl to move a little .
That fixing bolt is very difficult for access.
All this mean that for all the pedal travel,there is not enough travel of the clutch lever to disengage the clutch properly.
I repaired all these little things and now I have an almost perfect gearbox.
Hope this can help you and that you can enjoy your S as much as I do.
Sorry for the bad English of a Belgian TVR fan.
Chris
To resume, reverse and first gear sometimes almost impossible to engage without an horrible noise from the gearbox.
So I checked all I could check, and finally found that the rod from pedal to master cyl was not locked (pedal touch the body and do not disengage the clutch completely) and the same for the slave cyl rod.
Also the upper fixing bolt for the slave cylinder fixing was loose, which allowed the cyl to move a little .
That fixing bolt is very difficult for access.
All this mean that for all the pedal travel,there is not enough travel of the clutch lever to disengage the clutch properly.
I repaired all these little things and now I have an almost perfect gearbox.
Hope this can help you and that you can enjoy your S as much as I do.
Sorry for the bad English of a Belgian TVR fan.
Chris
Edited by motomatchless on Tuesday 17th August 20:56
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