Wedge Fuel Sending Unit

[taimar78]

I need some help regarding the fuel sending unit in the wedge (280i US-spec in this case). The directions that accompanied the sending unit said to measure the depth of the tank. Since the bottom of the tank slants, where should the measurement be taken? Once a measurement is obtained, there's a table in the instructions that tells you how long to make the arm. One length is for bimetal and one for Euro, each citing different lengths. Since it's a US car would we use the bimetal length? So far, a measurement of the tank came to 203mm, however the list(Euro) only goes down to 279mm so that leaves us in a quandry of where to set the arm. The Bimetal list settings only go down to 381 mm depth. Any help would be greatly appreciated since the way it is now, driving the car requires fuel stops about every 40 miles!
Thanks in advance.

[wedgeinald]

I'm in a similar position (not knowing how much fuel is in the tank(s)) as my sender is not working at all.

Depending on how you drive the car you can certainly get more than 40 miles before you NEED to fill up. I reckon on a full set of tanks being somewhere about 200 miles, (i reckon £20 gets me about 100 miles roughly), so IF you fill up you should be able to safely do 150 miles before the need to fill up.

I do have a spare tank in the garage (with a spare sender in it - that is destined to go in my tank if the one in there cannot be fixed) I cuold see if we can extract that one and measure the arm etc for you might give you a ball park figure for yours?

Norman

[taimar78]

Thanks Weginald, this is actually for a friend of mine who is trying to get all this sorted out so he can comfortably drive his car.
Any help would be appreciated. I have a spare NOS tank but it doesn't have a sender in it so nothing to measure.

[jeff m]

Marshal,
If I were to try to calibrate a tank sender I would make a cardbord tank with duct tape (three sided)and sit it on the plenum or fender. I would hot wire the sender to the gauge using croc clips.
With the engine running (alt voltage) I would then try to get the best "empty" reading I could and sort of wing it from there.