Independant rear suspension modifications? Or tips needed
Discussion
I am seeking advice to lower my 60 foot times.
My car is a TVR Chimaera 450 that has run 11.63 @ 122.6 on 255 Mickey Thompson street ETs and extra power courtesy of a 150 bhp progressive nitrous system.
My best 60 foot time has been 1.86 which I know can be improved on.
The car is undergoing a full bare chassis rebuild and I have fitted a set of Nitron shockers with the rear being 3 way adjustable.
'Raceproved' driveshafts are in place, the BTR diff should be strong enough and i am saving for the CTS T5 gearbox upgrade.
The engine is getting a full rebuild with low compression forged pistons, a bespoke nitrous friendly cam and head work.
I hope to have around 300 bhp NA and to add upto 300 bhp of nitrous.
The progressive controller can be programmed for each gear.
Tips on suspension geometry and shocker settings or any ideas on other modifications to the suapension or elsewhere will be appreciated.
My car is a TVR Chimaera 450 that has run 11.63 @ 122.6 on 255 Mickey Thompson street ETs and extra power courtesy of a 150 bhp progressive nitrous system.
My best 60 foot time has been 1.86 which I know can be improved on.
The car is undergoing a full bare chassis rebuild and I have fitted a set of Nitron shockers with the rear being 3 way adjustable.
'Raceproved' driveshafts are in place, the BTR diff should be strong enough and i am saving for the CTS T5 gearbox upgrade.
The engine is getting a full rebuild with low compression forged pistons, a bespoke nitrous friendly cam and head work.
I hope to have around 300 bhp NA and to add upto 300 bhp of nitrous.
The progressive controller can be programmed for each gear.
Tips on suspension geometry and shocker settings or any ideas on other modifications to the suapension or elsewhere will be appreciated.
You need this book to get you started, that way you will build your personal knowledge rather than continue to rely on the advise of others.
http://www.amazon.com/Door-Slammers-Chassis-Dave-M...
Any serious doorslammer racer will tell you that is worth its weight in fivers.
http://www.amazon.com/Door-Slammers-Chassis-Dave-M...
Any serious doorslammer racer will tell you that is worth its weight in fivers.
Double edged question there I think...
No, the book is not for IRS, but the OP clearly states amongst other things "I am seeking advice to lower my 60 foot times" and "Tips on suspension geometry and shocker settings or any ideas on other modifications to the suapension or elsewhere will be appreciated."
The basic concepts discussed in that book will help him with his car, IRS or no IRS, and if he chooses to suffer for his art by using IRS then as his ETs get smaller he is going to struggle harder and harder to get the IRS to continue to be fit for duty in a straight line application. He will need all the help he can get.
Do you know of a better source of unbiased information about setting your car up for drag racing applications ?
No, the book is not for IRS, but the OP clearly states amongst other things "I am seeking advice to lower my 60 foot times" and "Tips on suspension geometry and shocker settings or any ideas on other modifications to the suapension or elsewhere will be appreciated."
The basic concepts discussed in that book will help him with his car, IRS or no IRS, and if he chooses to suffer for his art by using IRS then as his ETs get smaller he is going to struggle harder and harder to get the IRS to continue to be fit for duty in a straight line application. He will need all the help he can get.
Do you know of a better source of unbiased information about setting your car up for drag racing applications ?
In the states there are a lot of IRS cars running 8's and some in the 7's, mainly supras and skylines so those guys must have a handle on it.
When you think of a 4 link set up where the leverage causes the car to react as it does and give weight transfer, the same thing can be achieved by using a torque arm on the diff facing forward to "lift" the body (and aid weight tranfer/ grip) so im guessing the yanks have got a good idea how to make this work.
Keeping IRS would imo keep it more streetable too keeping the original handling as near as original would make a goos dual purpose car (if thats your goal)
Just my thoughts not scientifically binding
Tony
When you think of a 4 link set up where the leverage causes the car to react as it does and give weight transfer, the same thing can be achieved by using a torque arm on the diff facing forward to "lift" the body (and aid weight tranfer/ grip) so im guessing the yanks have got a good idea how to make this work.
Keeping IRS would imo keep it more streetable too keeping the original handling as near as original would make a goos dual purpose car (if thats your goal)
Just my thoughts not scientifically binding

Tony
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