Wall-Mounted Toilet - How Tight Should the Bolts Be?
Discussion
Pretty tight.
If it broke (were you actually s itting on it, or just tightening your nuts at the time?) something's not right - I didn't exactly swing on ours using a three foot bar but it's 'one hand full force on a 1/2" square drive ratchet tight', if that makes sense.
Also check the wall is dead flat, you are using the sheet of spongey material you use between the pan and the wall so no part of the pan touches the tiles/wall anywhere, and that the threaded bar and nuts all have their protective plastic/nylon covers. I had a hell of a job stopping our top-hat-shaped washers from rotating as I tightened the pan down - the ones I used had a lip that had to stay upright to take the weight of the pan.
I'm guessing you have metal to ceramic contact somewhere - it's just working out where.
eta - our wallhanger is duravit I think, and I'm still cautious about sitting on it, probably 'cos I fitted it
but elsewhere in the house we've got a couple of starck-rip-off sinks from china via ebay - and they had to go back twice as the clay around the mounting holes had hairline cracks from the firing where the clay had shrunk a bit - if that'd been a wall hung toilet it would have been seriously dangerous if it fell off.
You could have had a dodgy one first time round?
If it broke (were you actually s itting on it, or just tightening your nuts at the time?) something's not right - I didn't exactly swing on ours using a three foot bar but it's 'one hand full force on a 1/2" square drive ratchet tight', if that makes sense.
Also check the wall is dead flat, you are using the sheet of spongey material you use between the pan and the wall so no part of the pan touches the tiles/wall anywhere, and that the threaded bar and nuts all have their protective plastic/nylon covers. I had a hell of a job stopping our top-hat-shaped washers from rotating as I tightened the pan down - the ones I used had a lip that had to stay upright to take the weight of the pan.
I'm guessing you have metal to ceramic contact somewhere - it's just working out where.
eta - our wallhanger is duravit I think, and I'm still cautious about sitting on it, probably 'cos I fitted it
but elsewhere in the house we've got a couple of starck-rip-off sinks from china via ebay - and they had to go back twice as the clay around the mounting holes had hairline cracks from the firing where the clay had shrunk a bit - if that'd been a wall hung toilet it would have been seriously dangerous if it fell off. You could have had a dodgy one first time round?
Edited by andy43 on Sunday 22 August 13:19
Phooey said:
Interesting topic this. I am about to order 2 wall hung toilets from Kohler - you buy the pan and the frame (which includes cistern) separately - the other option was to have 'back to wall' toilets, which sit on the floor.
Are these wall hung toilets a pita?
O' yes !!!!! even if its a mighty solid wall. Seen a few hung that bounce like crazy ! Are these wall hung toilets a pita?
Kindersley said:
Phooey said:
Interesting topic this. I am about to order 2 wall hung toilets from Kohler - you buy the pan and the frame (which includes cistern) separately - the other option was to have 'back to wall' toilets, which sit on the floor.
Are these wall hung toilets a pita?
O' yes !!!!! even if its a mighty solid wall. Seen a few hung that bounce like crazy ! Are these wall hung toilets a pita?
dfen5 said:
What sort of bolts? Rawl expanders or chem' fixed studs?
andy43 said:
It should be a specific threaded bar attached to a steel frame eg geberit/grohe etc. If he's using red rawlplugs and a couple of number 10s with penny washers, that'll be the problem.
I'm using threaded studs which came with the whole thing, which attach through the metal frame which is buried in the wall. There's a plasterboard covering which goes between the pan and the frame, but that wasnt there when the pan broke and I'm guessing that may have been the problem.PITA
I would install a conventional one if I hadnt already fitted the frame and cistern. 
You could go back to the wall 
The cistern and frame will still work ok if at the right height.
We bought a wallhung bog with geberit frame for upstairs, mounted to a seriously chunky timber framed dormer. Floppy as anything on the trial fit. Whole frame moved, no matter what I did, as the timber flexes and allows a bit of 'give' - multiplied by a factor of ten it's an obvious few mm by the time you get to the movement at the front edge of the bog seat.
Same bog now moved to downstairs, bolted (and I mean BOLTED!) to the wall and floor and anything in between.
Note hardibacker board is more rigid and less likely to compress than plasterboard. We've got that, hard up against the steel bog hanging frame with travertine on flexible wooden floor tile adhesive.
And it still moves. Only a couple of mm - you can't feel it as you lower yourself down, but you can see the movement (of the bog, of the bog!) if you're knelt down in front of it as someone fat sits on it. :cough: Apparently
The cistern and frame will still work ok if at the right height.We bought a wallhung bog with geberit frame for upstairs, mounted to a seriously chunky timber framed dormer. Floppy as anything on the trial fit. Whole frame moved, no matter what I did, as the timber flexes and allows a bit of 'give' - multiplied by a factor of ten it's an obvious few mm by the time you get to the movement at the front edge of the bog seat.
Same bog now moved to downstairs, bolted (and I mean BOLTED!) to the wall and floor and anything in between.
Note hardibacker board is more rigid and less likely to compress than plasterboard. We've got that, hard up against the steel bog hanging frame with travertine on flexible wooden floor tile adhesive.
And it still moves. Only a couple of mm - you can't feel it as you lower yourself down, but you can see the movement (of the bog, of the bog!) if you're knelt down in front of it as someone fat sits on it. :cough: Apparently
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