Discussion
Well I finally found the root cause of the engine failure at the Oulton Park TVRCC trackday - a loose bolt.
Not an important bolt, just the one that holds the nose pinion onto the front of the crank
When the seloc pins fractured the nose pinion moved forward and disengaged from the halftime sprocket that drives the cam chain.
The rebuild manual says apply loctite studlock and torque to 80 ftlbs but that bolt stood on the casing in the first picture fell out of the nose pinion when I took the front cover off. I was a bit bemused that the pinion had come away with the cover then as I tilted it the bolt popped out!
The drive key is fractured and the seloc pins are snapped. Its going to be fun getting those out!
I've not taken the heads off yet so I don't know if any of the valve seats were damaged when valves were bent.
If anyone knows an easy way to get snapped seloc pins out I'm open to any and all suggestions
I'll have to start ringing the usual suspects to see if I can source a new drive plate and selocs. Everything else seems to be readily available, there is even a choice of head gasket types.
Not an important bolt, just the one that holds the nose pinion onto the front of the crank
When the seloc pins fractured the nose pinion moved forward and disengaged from the halftime sprocket that drives the cam chain.
The rebuild manual says apply loctite studlock and torque to 80 ftlbs but that bolt stood on the casing in the first picture fell out of the nose pinion when I took the front cover off. I was a bit bemused that the pinion had come away with the cover then as I tilted it the bolt popped out!
The drive key is fractured and the seloc pins are snapped. Its going to be fun getting those out!
I've not taken the heads off yet so I don't know if any of the valve seats were damaged when valves were bent.
If anyone knows an easy way to get snapped seloc pins out I'm open to any and all suggestions
I'll have to start ringing the usual suspects to see if I can source a new drive plate and selocs. Everything else seems to be readily available, there is even a choice of head gasket types.
Edited by mikesr on Sunday 22 August 22:22
If you use a screw extractor - the taper of the extractor will be forcing the seloc to expand and pushing it ever more firmly against the hole. I would get the closest size tap you can find to the hole in the centre of the seloc and run that through a couple of times - it may have enough purchase without forcing the seloc to open.
To get a pin out of a blind hole, drill a hole in the pin to be removed, drill it the same size (very slightly larger) as a dowel or piece of tough rod you have handy. Once the hole is drilled fill it with thick oil, put the dowel/rod in the hole and hit with a hammer.
Doing this will act as a hydraulic ram and should eject the pin out of the hole.
Good luck.
Doing this will act as a hydraulic ram and should eject the pin out of the hole.
Good luck.
Tanguero said:
If you use a screw extractor - the taper of the extractor will be forcing the seloc to expand and pushing it ever more firmly against the hole. I would get the closest size tap you can find to the hole in the centre of the seloc and run that through a couple of times - it may have enough purchase without forcing the seloc to open.
Yes definitely a muppet idea that one. I'm sure I will have more of them as the project progresses.Thanks to everyone for the advice and encouragement.
Next milestone is getting the heads off. Followed by a short hiatus when I see the carnage in the combustion chamber and collapse on the garage floor in a dead faint
Edited by mikesr on Monday 23 August 23:21
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