E36 323 Advice
Discussion
I've noticed one of these up for sale near to me and I'm quite tempted by it. It's a '98 model, manual with 120K, FSH, tax and MOT and at £1700 it seems like a lot of car for the money.
This would be my first RWD car and the plan would be to run it for around a year, learn how to drive RWD properly, then sell, for hopefully, around the same as I buy it for and move onto something more exciting. If I really like it, I might even keep it as a track car in place of my current Saxo VTS.
Aside from being an old BMW and needing to check the body work thoroughly, is the 323 a good car?
I've read that you can just bolt a 325 inlet manifold on to it and make an extra 20BHP - is this really the case?
Also, do these engines suffer from VANOS / Nikasil problems?
Is there anything else I should bear in mind?
Thanks in advance
This would be my first RWD car and the plan would be to run it for around a year, learn how to drive RWD properly, then sell, for hopefully, around the same as I buy it for and move onto something more exciting. If I really like it, I might even keep it as a track car in place of my current Saxo VTS.
Aside from being an old BMW and needing to check the body work thoroughly, is the 323 a good car?
I've read that you can just bolt a 325 inlet manifold on to it and make an extra 20BHP - is this really the case?
Also, do these engines suffer from VANOS / Nikasil problems?
Is there anything else I should bear in mind?
Thanks in advance
M50 manifold will do something in the region of 20bhp, it'll be very similar to the earlier 325 in spec, but with a single pipe exhaust.
'98 was after they got nikasil sorted, so the engine should be fine. There are no major problems with them, just little service bits, bushes etc
check for rust on the front and rear arches and decided whether to stick with it, or get new arches cut in if you want.
'98 was after they got nikasil sorted, so the engine should be fine. There are no major problems with them, just little service bits, bushes etc
check for rust on the front and rear arches and decided whether to stick with it, or get new arches cut in if you want.
I've got one - a '96 323i - as you've seen.
I think your example's a little pricey fo the age and mileage.
The engines are pretty bombproof.
I've had the manifold change done together with a big bore throttle body. It's not a simple swap though.
I bought the fully re-engineered solution from Alpina527 on the E36coupe forum (and, in fact, got him to fit it too as he's only 15 miles from me). For a car without traction, it was a bit shy of £500 all in.
Night and day difference above 4500rpm though.
Aside from that, you just need to inspect it carefully (as with any older performance car) to make sure that thre are no service items coming up to add to your bills. I got the seller of my car to replace rear discs and pads, front pads and one new tyre - then paid him £1300. 103k on the clock.
It has been to two BMW indies and they both, entirely unsolicted, remarked that it was the straightest example they'd seen for ages. One specialist said it was the first car in ages to put a smile on his face - which is quite something when the 323 is very much toward the mid-lower end of the range.
So, my recommendation would be to buy carefully and haggle hard. They need to be bought with the head rather than the heart. And, obviously, a 91-95 325i will save you faffing about with the manaifold.
I think your example's a little pricey fo the age and mileage.
The engines are pretty bombproof.
I've had the manifold change done together with a big bore throttle body. It's not a simple swap though.
I bought the fully re-engineered solution from Alpina527 on the E36coupe forum (and, in fact, got him to fit it too as he's only 15 miles from me). For a car without traction, it was a bit shy of £500 all in.
Night and day difference above 4500rpm though.
Aside from that, you just need to inspect it carefully (as with any older performance car) to make sure that thre are no service items coming up to add to your bills. I got the seller of my car to replace rear discs and pads, front pads and one new tyre - then paid him £1300. 103k on the clock.
It has been to two BMW indies and they both, entirely unsolicted, remarked that it was the straightest example they'd seen for ages. One specialist said it was the first car in ages to put a smile on his face - which is quite something when the 323 is very much toward the mid-lower end of the range.
So, my recommendation would be to buy carefully and haggle hard. They need to be bought with the head rather than the heart. And, obviously, a 91-95 325i will save you faffing about with the manaifold.
TheEnd said:
check for rust on the front and rear arches and decided whether to stick with it, or get new arches cut in if you want.
What's the scope for 'unrolling' the arches, i.e. flaring them so that wider tyres/track can be used but without resorting to barryboy kits?Is there enough raw material built in? (If yes) what kind of costs do you think I'd be looking at? (Would probably only do rears)
What's wrong with Barryboy kits!
In must cases, the internal arch return is folded flush, then the entire arch is pulled out. (maybe the return is cut off)
It's a bit of a body shop job, but hard to say what you gain, as the majority of people do it so they can get "stretch", "poke" and "stance"
In must cases, the internal arch return is folded flush, then the entire arch is pulled out. (maybe the return is cut off)
It's a bit of a body shop job, but hard to say what you gain, as the majority of people do it so they can get "stretch", "poke" and "stance"
TheEnd said:
What's wrong with Barryboy kits!
In must cases, the internal arch return is folded flush, then the entire arch is pulled out. (maybe the return is cut off)
It's a bit of a body shop job, but hard to say what you gain, as the majority of people do it so they can get "stretch", "poke" and "stance"
In must cases, the internal arch return is folded flush, then the entire arch is pulled out. (maybe the return is cut off)
It's a bit of a body shop job, but hard to say what you gain, as the majority of people do it so they can get "stretch", "poke" and "stance"
I just want to fit 10mm spacers so that my rear tyres stay away from the zorst!The 325i would be my preference over the 323i really, but as this is so close to me it could be a good option.
£500 for the manifold swap is worth bearing in mind, if I was only going to keep it for a year I might not bother with the hassle. But then again an extra 20BHP
So price may be slightly high then. It seems difficult to gauge price as the market is scattered with poorly modified examples etc. This particular one is Black with Black leather interior, lots of BMW service history and *looks* clean. If it's a good one I guess I could try for £1200
£500 for the manifold swap is worth bearing in mind, if I was only going to keep it for a year I might not bother with the hassle. But then again an extra 20BHP
So price may be slightly high then. It seems difficult to gauge price as the market is scattered with poorly modified examples etc. This particular one is Black with Black leather interior, lots of BMW service history and *looks* clean. If it's a good one I guess I could try for £1200
V8Mate said:
... so that my rear tyres stay away from the zorst!
Is that what was causing the wear on your R888's then?I've owned my '98 E36 323i since a few months old and I cannot recommend it enough. I love it and although I have owned other more expensive cars in the past 12 years, they have come and gone.
I have to say that although priceless to me, I am a little surprised that they can command that kind of price.
Mines only has 78K miles and I would have said about a grand.
I have to say that although priceless to me, I am a little surprised that they can command that kind of price.
Mines only has 78K miles and I would have said about a grand.
PetrolHeadSeb said:
V8Mate said:
... so that my rear tyres stay away from the zorst!
Is that what was causing the wear on your R888's then?
I've got one, along with two E36 328s.
The 323 is actually a sweeter engine than the 325s or 328s, but lacks a bit of mid range when compared with a 328.
Putting a 328 exhaust and having it remapped goes a long way to bridging the gap. I haven't spent the money doing the manifold swap on any of them yet - The remap and exhaust made more difference to the car for how I use it than the manifold would have done.
I might change the manifold on the track 328 though, as that spends most of its life above 4,000rpm.
It's easier to fine a decent 323 than 325 or 328. Most 325s are quite tatty now, and a lot of the 328s have not been looked after/chavved.
The 323 is actually a sweeter engine than the 325s or 328s, but lacks a bit of mid range when compared with a 328.
Putting a 328 exhaust and having it remapped goes a long way to bridging the gap. I haven't spent the money doing the manifold swap on any of them yet - The remap and exhaust made more difference to the car for how I use it than the manifold would have done.
I might change the manifold on the track 328 though, as that spends most of its life above 4,000rpm.
It's easier to fine a decent 323 than 325 or 328. Most 325s are quite tatty now, and a lot of the 328s have not been looked after/chavved.
Yep - mine has had a new block at some point in its life. It has resulted in some parts not being as its original build date though, which has been a pain.
Your bhp argument makes some sense, but when driven sensibly, you'll get better fuel consumption for that same power level in the 323.
Mine is petty much track use only (though not trailered to the track) but the OP seems to want something he can use day-to-day.
Your bhp argument makes some sense, but when driven sensibly, you'll get better fuel consumption for that same power level in the 323.
Mine is petty much track use only (though not trailered to the track) but the OP seems to want something he can use day-to-day.
Seb - can we turn this thread into a 'things to do to a 323i' thread? 
Good
Q: Did all E36 coupes have electric front windows? I want to dump the motor and kit for the front windows but need to retain the ability to open and close them. Are there manual window mechanisms out there in scrap yards? Or is there a cleverer solution?
Good
Q: Did all E36 coupes have electric front windows? I want to dump the motor and kit for the front windows but need to retain the ability to open and close them. Are there manual window mechanisms out there in scrap yards? Or is there a cleverer solution?
V8mate said:
Why are these only £68 a side and these £250 (for a set)?
And is there a £500 solution to achieving Gaz Gold (GGA) suspension performance?
The £68 look like they alter your castor at the same time as camber.And is there a £500 solution to achieving Gaz Gold (GGA) suspension performance?
What about http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/BMW-E36-325i-DOHC-92-99-PILL...
As has been said, with E36 suspension you need to go all the way or keep it cheap and cheerful. The middle rung stuff might make an improvement on the road, but isn't worth the money on the track. Mine will run on its £239 coilovers until they fall apart!
JimexPL said:
V8mate said:
Why are these only £68 a side and these £250 (for a set)?
And is there a £500 solution to achieving Gaz Gold (GGA) suspension performance?
The £68 look like they alter your castor at the same time as camber.And is there a £500 solution to achieving Gaz Gold (GGA) suspension performance?
What about http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/BMW-E36-325i-DOHC-92-99-PILL...
As has been said, with E36 suspension you need to go all the way or keep it cheap and cheerful. The middle rung stuff might make an improvement on the road, but isn't worth the money on the track. Mine will run on its £239 coilovers until they fall apart!
there is another camber trick of getting longer bolts for the bottoms of the shocks, between the back on the kingpin/hub and the shock and spacing them out with washers.
standard bolts are 20mm, i forget the thread / M size, 10.9 tensile strength i think, but a M*x25mm with 2 2mm and 1 1mm washer will clamp up fine, and you just put however many washers you need behind the shock to push the bottom out.
The washer pack means the longer bolt won't ground out etc
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