Drive Shaft Removal
Discussion
Hi
Well its MOT time for my Cerb and one of the C/V boots on my drive shaft has a split in it.
Ive got the car jacked up and ive removed the 3 nuts and bolts that hold the hub onto the wish bone ends, i was hopeing to lift the whole hub and brake assembly clear and slide the drive shaft out, but the hand brake cable is stopping me from doing this.
Is it possible to remove the drive shaft this way ( am i not holding my mouth right ? )
Or have i got to remove the brake assembly and remove the hand brake cable.
as always many thanks in advance for your replys
Gray
Well its MOT time for my Cerb and one of the C/V boots on my drive shaft has a split in it.
Ive got the car jacked up and ive removed the 3 nuts and bolts that hold the hub onto the wish bone ends, i was hopeing to lift the whole hub and brake assembly clear and slide the drive shaft out, but the hand brake cable is stopping me from doing this.
Is it possible to remove the drive shaft this way ( am i not holding my mouth right ? )
Or have i got to remove the brake assembly and remove the hand brake cable.
as always many thanks in advance for your replys
Gray
Edited by Gray_101 on Tuesday 7th September 18:50
You can remove the drive shaft completely without taking off the hub.
It's easiest to do this job from under the car.
If you remove the bolts (the ones you open with an 8mm allen key) and give the drive shaft a tap (possibly a hard one) of a mallet it will separate from the hub, or the diff if that's the end you've opened.
There won't be any oil / grease leaking out.
You'll need to split the CV-joint to get the old boot off and the new one on so make sure to make a note of how it comes apart.
Clean the CV-joint fully while it's apart (wash with paraffin or similar) and re-grease with new CV-joint grease.
HTH.
It's easiest to do this job from under the car.
If you remove the bolts (the ones you open with an 8mm allen key) and give the drive shaft a tap (possibly a hard one) of a mallet it will separate from the hub, or the diff if that's the end you've opened.
There won't be any oil / grease leaking out.
You'll need to split the CV-joint to get the old boot off and the new one on so make sure to make a note of how it comes apart.
Clean the CV-joint fully while it's apart (wash with paraffin or similar) and re-grease with new CV-joint grease.
HTH.
Ive not removed any of the allen bolts, that must be were im going wrong.
if i remove the ones on the diff ( they look easier to get at ) will the drive shaft come out of the hub ? or do i have to remove the allen bolts on the hub aswell ?
if i remove the ones on the diff ( they look easier to get at ) will the drive shaft come out of the hub ? or do i have to remove the allen bolts on the hub aswell ?
Edited by Gray_101 on Tuesday 7th September 19:51
Gray_101 said:
Ive not removed any of the allen bolts, that must be were im going wrong.
if i remove the ones on the diff ( they look easier to get at ) will the drive shaft come out of the hub ? or do i have to remove the allen bolts on the hub aswell ?
Nah mate, there is a cir-clip stopping the CV joint slipping off the spines at both ends.if i remove the ones on the diff ( they look easier to get at ) will the drive shaft come out of the hub ? or do i have to remove the allen bolts on the hub aswell ?
IMHO you need to remove the drive shaft complete, that way you have easy access to both boots (You are replacing both ???) plus you may find you need to 'pull' the CV off the drive shaft, one of mine almost fell off the other needed to be pulled.
You have to remove 6 allen bolts at each end to get the driveshaft off. To get room to manoeuvre it out from behind the hub, it is easiest to undo the two bolts that attach the hub to the lower arm, then the whole hub will pivot up on the top arm without messing up any alignment.
Once the driveshaft is off there is a circlip that you will need to undo to take the CV joint off the splines. The boot will then slip off and the new one can go on. As mentioned above clean the old grease out and repack with fresh.
I just had to replace one on Blackpool promenade after snapping it on the first 1/4 mile run. I hope yours involves less sand!
Once the driveshaft is off there is a circlip that you will need to undo to take the CV joint off the splines. The boot will then slip off and the new one can go on. As mentioned above clean the old grease out and repack with fresh.
I just had to replace one on Blackpool promenade after snapping it on the first 1/4 mile run. I hope yours involves less sand!
Gray_101 said:
Cheers guys, i reckon i now know what to do 
.
Im going to replace all 4 boots, cause if ones split the others will soon follow.
O/T ( Mark did you get your tappets adjusted ok ?)
Yes thanks Graham, all were within spec, thanks for your help .Im going to replace all 4 boots, cause if ones split the others will soon follow.
O/T ( Mark did you get your tappets adjusted ok ?)
Regarding the boots, I ordered 4 x FCB2196 including grease and clips from the local motor factors, 3Ltr Granada parts IIRC, £27.28 inc.
Depends on how neat you want to fix the clips ? I bought the boot clamp pliers @ £17...you can never have enough tools
and for info the part number for the pliers was LAS-4136.
Tanguero said:
You have to remove 6 allen bolts at each end to get the driveshaft off. To get room to manoeuvre it out from behind the hub, it is easiest to undo the two bolts that attach the hub to the lower arm, then the whole hub will pivot up on the top arm without messing up any alignment.
Once the driveshaft is off there is a circlip that you will need to undo to take the CV joint off the splines. The boot will then slip off and the new one can go on. As mentioned above clean the old grease out and repack with fresh.
I just had to replace one on Blackpool promenade after snapping it on the first 1/4 mile run. I hope yours involves less sand!
So what happened Tanguero ?Once the driveshaft is off there is a circlip that you will need to undo to take the CV joint off the splines. The boot will then slip off and the new one can go on. As mentioned above clean the old grease out and repack with fresh.
I just had to replace one on Blackpool promenade after snapping it on the first 1/4 mile run. I hope yours involves less sand!
How much bhp have you got and what did it snap. Did you do a full repair on blackpool front ?
Gray_101 said:
So what happened Tanguero ?
How much bhp have you got and what did it snap. Did you do a full repair on blackpool front ?
The BNG sprint, it was a smooth concrete surface covered in a layer of fine dry sand. No grip at all I say to myself. So I lower the rear tyre pressure a bit (14psi on R888s with 360bhp) and get lined up at the start line, the light goes green. I do a granny start to get her moving then floor it. She starts to shift quite nicely then there's big BANG and no drive at all How much bhp have you got and what did it snap. Did you do a full repair on blackpool front ?
I end up getting towed to the collecting paddock at the far end of the promenade where a bit of poking reveals that the drivers side drive shaft has snapped right at the outboard splines.
Perry from Dulfords was there with his Tuscan racer and a truck of bits and very kindly offered me his spare driveshaft (same as the Cerb) before I even got towed back to the main paddock. Some bloke I don't know lent me an axle stand and someone else found a pair of circlip pliers and I carry a reasonable tool kit so my wife and I managed to swap driveshafts on the Blackpool front with sand blowing everywhere.
I missed the second practice and first timed run but got back out for the rest of the runs and ended up winning my class.
Dulford Automotive/TVR Car Parts get a huge vote of thanks from me (Perry even let me hang onto the driveshaft to drive back home and courier it back to him!!!) Its people like this that make sprinting such a great experience.
Tanguero said:
Gray_101 said:
So what happened Tanguero ?
How much bhp have you got and what did it snap. Did you do a full repair on blackpool front ?
The BNG sprint, it was a smooth concrete surface covered in a layer of fine dry sand. No grip at all I say to myself. So I lower the rear tyre pressure a bit (14psi on R888s with 360bhp) and get lined up at the start line, the light goes green. I do a granny start to get her moving then floor it. She starts to shift quite nicely then there's big BANG and no drive at all How much bhp have you got and what did it snap. Did you do a full repair on blackpool front ?
I end up getting towed to the collecting paddock at the far end of the promenade where a bit of poking reveals that the drivers side drive shaft has snapped right at the outboard splines.
Perry from Dulfords was there with his Tuscan racer and a truck of bits and very kindly offered me his spare driveshaft (same as the Cerb) before I even got towed back to the main paddock. Some bloke I don't know lent me an axle stand and someone else found a pair of circlip pliers and I carry a reasonable tool kit so my wife and I managed to swap driveshafts on the Blackpool front with sand blowing everywhere.
I missed the second practice and first timed run but got back out for the rest of the runs and ended up winning my class.
Dulford Automotive/TVR Car Parts get a huge vote of thanks from me (Perry even let me hang onto the driveshaft to drive back home and courier it back to him!!!) Its people like this that make sprinting such a great experience.
I walked down the sprint track on Saturday morning, while blackpool council was trying to clean up the sand, and im not surprised you did a granny start. i thought the track was a bit on the narrow side and them concrete walls wouldnt forgive any mistake. and hoped there would nt be any tears before bed time for any fellow TVR owners.
But i gather it was a good day, shame i missed it.
BTW Raceproved do extra strong drive shafts. and if there lightened fly wheels are any thing to go by, i bet there the muts nuts
Edited by Gray_101 on Thursday 9th September 21:43
Rufus Roughcut said:
Regarding the boots, I ordered 4 x FCB2196 including grease and clips from the local motor factors, 3Ltr Granada parts IIRC, £27.28 inc.
Depends on how neat you want to fix the clips ? I bought the boot clamp pliers @ £17...you can never have enough tools and for info the part number for the pliers was LAS-4136.
Mark did you get the boot clamp pliers from motor factors ?Depends on how neat you want to fix the clips ? I bought the boot clamp pliers @ £17...you can never have enough tools
and for info the part number for the pliers was LAS-4136.I need to get a pair quick as the cars in for its MOT on wednesday
Yep, I bought the boot clamp pliers from the local motor factors, they are made by Laser.
They're not up there with snap on tools, however as a budget tool they are good, today I've used them when replacing the steering rack gators.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Laser-4136-CV-Boot-Clamp-Coo...
They're not up there with snap on tools, however as a budget tool they are good, today I've used them when replacing the steering rack gators.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Laser-4136-CV-Boot-Clamp-Coo...
Gassing Station | Cerbera | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff