Chainsaw blade reshaping...
Discussion
Managed to get hold of a chainsaw that runs brilliantly (starts first pull even!) but has a minor issue (presumably why it ended up at the dump...) in that it won't cut in a straight line! Looking at the chain I'd guess that it had been used to dig a small rockery up, but despite several runs through with a sharpener, still won't cut anything like straight.
Any tips other than buying a new blade - this is a learning experience primarily!
Any tips other than buying a new blade - this is a learning experience primarily!
You'll need to keep the cutting edges at exactly the right angle for them to work properly and safely - you'll need to look the chain type up to get the info on the angle and then use the correct file size with an angle clip attached.
You'll want the cutters all at the right angle AND all filed down to match the most worn ones. And when you've done this you must use a flat file to ensure the depth gauges are also all level and at the correct height.
When servicing a saw I always sharpen the chain by hand because you can easily check it and adjust it as you go. Also - take the bar off and check it's straight that the grove isn't pinching anywhere (you'll see blueing if it is restricting the chain movement) and if it has a nose sprocket, clean it and grease it.
If you lose your angles you'll increase the chances of a kick-back, if you lose your depth gauges the same applies. If the bar is bent or wearing uneven or pinching you'll increase the chances of a tie-strap failing.... and you DO NOT want a chain coming off mid-saw.
Chains are about a tenner.
was going to email you about it G. Cheers for the tips there, will give it a good going over next week, probably get a new bar and chain too but you know me, like to know the why's and wherefore first!try these people, very helpful, I ordered one and the wrong one was delivered (totally my fault) they exchanged it no questions
http://www.mister-solutions.co.uk/
http://www.mister-solutions.co.uk/
If they cut banana shaped it normally means that the chain is sharpened badly so the that the chain is cutting more on one side than the other. As has been said it's all to do with the angle of the cutting teeth. I'd either just buy a new chain for it or drop the old chain into your local chainsaw dealer and ask them to do it for you if you're not sure.
chainsaw not cutting straight is always
A) left and right cutters not the same length. poor sharpening technique
b) the bar is not level,Use a right angle and run it along the rails one side will be higher than the other, this is caused by running a blunt saw and leaning on it to "help" it cut.
A) left and right cutters not the same length. poor sharpening technique
b) the bar is not level,Use a right angle and run it along the rails one side will be higher than the other, this is caused by running a blunt saw and leaning on it to "help" it cut.
Gave it a good going over based on Mr G's post, the bar was surprisingly true and level, but the teeth were a bit all over the place, spent a while finding the shortest tooth and made them all match that one, took a tad off the guide height too, and though it's not perfect, it now long cuts at a very slight angle as opposed to trying to make bananas out of every cut 
Still not the fastest cutter though so will replace the bar and chain, just happier spending money once I've learned why I am and how to prevent needless waste in future!
Still not the fastest cutter though so will replace the bar and chain, just happier spending money once I've learned why I am and how to prevent needless waste in future!
Davi said:
Gave it a good going over based on Mr G's post, the bar was surprisingly true and level, but the teeth were a bit all over the place, spent a while finding the shortest tooth and made them all match that one, took a tad off the guide height too, and though it's not perfect, it now long cuts at a very slight angle as opposed to trying to make bananas out of every cut
Chains seem to be pretty cheap, but I've been shopping around recently for a new 20" Stihl bar and the cheapest seems to be around the 45 quid mark from ebay or 50 quid plus from a dealer. Not massive money admittedly but also not the sort of thing I'd want to replace for the sake of it.
Trevelyan said:
Chains seem to be pretty cheap, but I've been shopping around recently for a new 20" Stihl bar and the cheapest seems to be around the 45 quid mark from ebay or 50 quid plus from a dealer. Not massive money admittedly but also not the sort of thing I'd want to replace for the sake of it.
Get an oregon bar instead. Much cheaper but still good quality bit of kit. I've looked at Oregon a few times actually but can't decide whether to try it or not. Oregon seems to divide opinion - some people love their kit, other people say it's good but not as good as Stihl. The Oregon bars go for about 20 quid less than Stihl, although there's not a lot of difference in the chain costs. I might compromise and go for a Stihl chain on the Oregon bar.
It depends on how much use you get out of the saw I suppose. If you are a heavy user in difficult conditions it might work out better economically to use an oregon bars and chains. If are an occasional domestic user then for the sake of £20 more maybe stick to the manufacturers stuff. I use both. For the dirty jobs (removing undercut/windblown trees from rivers) I use a ms260 and get through a lot of bars and chains in the course of a year so often use oregon kit. For climbing and big felling I use a 200T and a 660 with standard stihl kit.
On most saws you can turn the bar upside down when one side is worn - assuming you can't straighten it with a flat file.
If you're not confident sharpening the teeth evenly, a jig can help. People often sharpen one side differently from the other side, which can start uneven wear to both chain and bar.
Cheers,
FT.
If you're not confident sharpening the teeth evenly, a jig can help. People often sharpen one side differently from the other side, which can start uneven wear to both chain and bar.
Cheers,
FT.
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