Griff 500 driveshafts
Discussion
The advanced search funtion has been down for sometime..... this might help 
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a... Function Sticky
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a... Function Sticky
Ant. said:
Sierra Cosworth. Think Raceproved do uprated ones....
If you are looking at keeping the car long term I would most certainly look at the raceproved versions as Ant has suggested:http://www.raceproved.com/shop/view-product/hi-tor...
MPoxon said:
Ant. said:
Sierra Cosworth. Think Raceproved do uprated ones....
If you are looking at keeping the car long term I would most certainly look at the raceproved versions as Ant has suggested:http://www.raceproved.com/shop/view-product/hi-tor...
Johno said:
Can I ask why ?
If something breaks on my car as I intend to keep it long term I personally do not mind spending a little extra on an upgraded part (if there is one available) over a standard part. Of course this all depends on the particular parts in question. You here of a lot of tuned cars sheering driveshafts due to the increased torque but a number of standard ones have as well. In this case I would go for the upgraded Raceproved drive shafts.
All personal choice I think.
Sticky tyres is what normally breaks the standard ones. Shearing them while or shortly after tyre warming before a sprint is quite common epecially if B list tyres are used besause they have more grip than normal roadgoing tyres.
I replcaed the broken ones on my cerb with the raceproved ones and never broke one
I replcaed the broken ones on my cerb with the raceproved ones and never broke one
Ant. said:
I have always wondered at what torque output a V8 can snap standard Ford driveshafts, but I guess there are other factors like tyres (grip) that also play a part..
425 lb/ft on tripple 8's with uprated AP race clutch haven't, in my case...but I think it has a lot more to do with how smooth you are on the pedals, and how aggressive your clutch bite is.E.T.A.
I'm probably living on borrowed time as my stock trannie is still intact as well...both will be uprated as and when i out live my borrowed time
Edited by Bluebottle on Monday 13th September 08:33
Its good to hear the raceproved shafts are holding up well.
Also to hear a standard T5 can take a lot of abuse.
I aim to put over 600 lb/ft through mine next year on the strip with very sticky Mickey Thompsons so i half expect something to give.
Bluebottle, can i ask what you aim to upgrade to once the gearbox does let go? I am planning a CTS rebuild.... not cheap
Also to hear a standard T5 can take a lot of abuse.
I aim to put over 600 lb/ft through mine next year on the strip with very sticky Mickey Thompsons so i half expect something to give.
Bluebottle, can i ask what you aim to upgrade to once the gearbox does let go? I am planning a CTS rebuild.... not cheap
dbv8 said:
Its good to hear the raceproved shafts are holding up well.
Also to hear a standard T5 can take a lot of abuse.
I aim to put over 600 lb/ft through mine next year on the strip with very sticky Mickey Thompsons so i half expect something to give.
Bluebottle, can i ask what you aim to upgrade to once the gearbox does let go? I am planning a CTS rebuild.... not cheap
Ditto Also to hear a standard T5 can take a lot of abuse.
I aim to put over 600 lb/ft through mine next year on the strip with very sticky Mickey Thompsons so i half expect something to give.
Bluebottle, can i ask what you aim to upgrade to once the gearbox does let go? I am planning a CTS rebuild.... not cheap
, I'll get CTS to rebuild the T5 with the uprated Quaffe internals which seems to be reseanably robust as its used in the Tuscan Challenge (although not all drivers make them last, comes back to my comment about pedal abuse 
)I think 600 lb/ft may be a little extreme even for CTS
. Whilst no one will tell me what they can take i would have thought 500 would be getting to the limitI know Steve Heath says a lot of good things about the CTS and is probably a lot stronger than any rating so i am confident there.
We will see if the driveshafts cope. I guess it all depends on my clutch and how big a 'hook up' i get on the start line. BTW my clutch is only a cerametallic single plate from John Eales rated at 500lb/ft so may need to upgrade this at the same time i get the gearbox done.
My power will be fed in fairly mildly at first due to the use of a decent nitrous progressive controller. But as i strive for better times this will be adjusted more aggresssively as long as i can retain traction
We will see if the driveshafts cope. I guess it all depends on my clutch and how big a 'hook up' i get on the start line. BTW my clutch is only a cerametallic single plate from John Eales rated at 500lb/ft so may need to upgrade this at the same time i get the gearbox done.
My power will be fed in fairly mildly at first due to the use of a decent nitrous progressive controller. But as i strive for better times this will be adjusted more aggresssively as long as i can retain traction
MPoxon said:
Johno said:
Can I ask why ?
If something breaks on my car as I intend to keep it long term I personally do not mind spending a little extra on an upgraded part (if there is one available) over a standard part. Of course this all depends on the particular parts in question. You here of a lot of tuned cars sheering driveshafts due to the increased torque but a number of standard ones have as well. In this case I would go for the upgraded Raceproved drive shafts.
All personal choice I think.
Just don't think they're necessary on a std (or mildly tuned) car unless you're using sticky tyres as per Jes's and BB's comments about abusing them as well.
Just cos they're available doesn't mean you need to upgrade them . . . But as you say, each to their own.
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