Manifold Question
Discussion
I'm planning to take the engine and box out in a few weeks. One of the jobs is to replace both manifolds. The question I have - is it better to fit both manifolds to the engine with the engine out - dropping the engine in with both manifolds fittted, or have them in situ dropping the engine in without them fitted?
This will be a first time job for me so any useful tips would be appreciated....
This will be a first time job for me so any useful tips would be appreciated....
rev-erend said:
Make sure you fit ARP manifold bolts - they do not rust and are smaller so easier to do up the akeward ones underneath.
Have to agree, they are a lot better than standard ones.Act do a set with some shake proof washers, useful as I noticed they had come loose on the racer.
rev-erend said:
As Blain say ...
Also - there is not the space to remove/add the engine with the manifolds attached.
Make sure you fit ARP manifold bolts - they do not rust and are smaller so easier to do up the akeward ones underneath.
Not sure what ARP means but I was looking at some Stainless bolts from a supplier, his advice was to insert some S/S studs into the head and secure the manifolds using the supplied S/S nuts. Easier to do up and they won't rust. Any views?Also - there is not the space to remove/add the engine with the manifolds attached.
Make sure you fit ARP manifold bolts - they do not rust and are smaller so easier to do up the akeward ones underneath.
GV said:
rev-erend said:
As Blain say ...
Also - there is not the space to remove/add the engine with the manifolds attached.
Make sure you fit ARP manifold bolts - they do not rust and are smaller so easier to do up the akeward ones underneath.
Not sure what ARP means but I was looking at some Stainless bolts from a supplier, his advice was to insert some S/S studs into the head and secure the manifolds using the supplied S/S nuts. Easier to do up and they won't rust. Any views?Also - there is not the space to remove/add the engine with the manifolds attached.
Make sure you fit ARP manifold bolts - they do not rust and are smaller so easier to do up the akeward ones underneath.
I think we are talking about these
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ARP-Mettalic-gaskets-Nord-lo...
They are stainless, the link about includes gaskets, but they do just the bolts, if required.
I prefer to do the gaskets that RPI do.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ARP-Mettalic-gaskets-Nord-lo...
They are stainless, the link about includes gaskets, but they do just the bolts, if required.
I prefer to do the gaskets that RPI do.
Dont buy studs. Please, dont. Fitting manifold studs to a wedge will turn you into a dribbling window-licker before you've even got the first header on!
They are damn tight with bolts, and I think if you fit studs, you'd probably have to lift the engine and remove the mountings to get them over the studs, and then the lower rows of nuts probably wouldnt go over the studs because of how the primary pipes bend.
When I built the Vixen, I tried studs, and very quickly went back to cap headed bolts for this reason, and that was only a Crossflow engine and there was plenty of bodywork/chassis clearance, it was just the piping that was severely in the way.
Bolts.
They are damn tight with bolts, and I think if you fit studs, you'd probably have to lift the engine and remove the mountings to get them over the studs, and then the lower rows of nuts probably wouldnt go over the studs because of how the primary pipes bend.
When I built the Vixen, I tried studs, and very quickly went back to cap headed bolts for this reason, and that was only a Crossflow engine and there was plenty of bodywork/chassis clearance, it was just the piping that was severely in the way.
Bolts.
ed_crouch said:
Dont buy studs. Please, dont. Fitting manifold studs to a wedge will turn you into a dribbling window-licker before you've even got the first header on!
They are damn tight with bolts, and I think if you fit studs, you'd probably have to lift the engine and remove the mountings to get them over the studs, and then the lower rows of nuts probably wouldnt go over the studs because of how the primary pipes bend.
When I built the Vixen, I tried studs, and very quickly went back to cap headed bolts for this reason, and that was only a Crossflow engine and there was plenty of bodywork/chassis clearance, it was just the piping that was severely in the way.
Bolts.
No one has said studs, if you look at the link I posted, there are bolts but will a reduced size head, so make a lot easier to get a spanner on them.They are damn tight with bolts, and I think if you fit studs, you'd probably have to lift the engine and remove the mountings to get them over the studs, and then the lower rows of nuts probably wouldnt go over the studs because of how the primary pipes bend.
When I built the Vixen, I tried studs, and very quickly went back to cap headed bolts for this reason, and that was only a Crossflow engine and there was plenty of bodywork/chassis clearance, it was just the piping that was severely in the way.
Bolts.
What about bolt - studs? This might sounds a little crazy but I did his on my 400SX a few years ago because someone had plainly stripped the thread one of manifold bolt head threads. This is what I did:
1. Tapped the hole out with an M10 tap.
2. Put in a very standard M10 bolt
3. On the bolt is a nut - so after the bolt bottoms in the hole I can tighten the nut onto the maifold.
It doesn't look sexy but it does the job, and I can take it out easily enough.
1. Tapped the hole out with an M10 tap.
2. Put in a very standard M10 bolt
3. On the bolt is a nut - so after the bolt bottoms in the hole I can tighten the nut onto the maifold.
It doesn't look sexy but it does the job, and I can take it out easily enough.
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