E36 around 1k - opinions please
Discussion
I'm 99% decided on an e36 as a second car to run alongside the vx. However.. I'm not entirely decided on the exact spec to be looking out for. I seem to be able to find a fair few examples on autotrader across all the specs in both auto and manual. Most are above the 100k miles mark.
MPG isn't top consideration - I don't imagine I'll do more than 4-5k miles per year.
Of all the engine choices I'm guessing that the 328 will offer me the most in terms of enjoyment, but if that comes at the cost of massive service bills etc then I'd rather avoid. Labour costs shouldn't be too much of an issue as I have a friend very handy at spannering, so really just parts.
Same with the manual/auto choice really - on a car of this age/milage is one better or worse than the other?
thanks!
MPG isn't top consideration - I don't imagine I'll do more than 4-5k miles per year.
Of all the engine choices I'm guessing that the 328 will offer me the most in terms of enjoyment, but if that comes at the cost of massive service bills etc then I'd rather avoid. Labour costs shouldn't be too much of an issue as I have a friend very handy at spannering, so really just parts.
Same with the manual/auto choice really - on a car of this age/milage is one better or worse than the other?
thanks!
528Sport said:
328's pre 1998 could have bore issues do a search for Nikasil. Any 328 built after week 10 1998 should be ok
Dave
Cheers for the replies! Most of the cars in my price bracket seem to be pre 98, although some I've seen mention steel linered blocks? I assume that's a fix for the nikasil problems?Dave
badgerade said:
528Sport said:
328's pre 1998 could have bore issues do a search for Nikasil. Any 328 built after week 10 1998 should be ok
Dave
Cheers for the replies! Most of the cars in my price bracket seem to be pre 98, although some I've seen mention steel linered blocks? I assume that's a fix for the nikasil problems?Dave
You can look at the block just above the starter if there is a threaded hole its nikasil if there is a bolt with a brass plate about the size of a 5p its the later style.
With the car warm run the engine with a door open and look at the edje of the door if its vibrating/shaking then the chances are it "could" be a faililing block, what your looking for is lumpy idle.
One school of thought is that becasue fuel is low sulphur the chances are the problem on nikasil blocks won't get any worse, personally I'd not thake that risk as firstly it will be a hassle changing the engine and secondly the cost involved.
My mother runs a 1996 328, manual. I assume it must have the Nikasil engine at that age, but it was fine when my parents bought it 6-7 years ago, and is still fine. The car has done about 130,000, and has been very good, with only moderate servicing requirements, none of which have been hugely expensive – and, just in case you’re wondering, my mother likes to press on, and my dad used to race, and was an “enthusiastic” driver... the car was also used for towing their c*r*v*n, which it did with consummate ease.
The paint is faded (it is red), but the body has no noticeable rust, and the interior is also fine (if a bit plasticky); everything works, including the a/c, etc. I drove it for the first time just recently, and while the suspension is a bit bouncy for my taste, and the clutch bites rather high, it goes very well indeed, feeling small, light and really quite quick. I drive a manual E39 530 Sport – the E36 feels a lot smaller and lighter, and probably nearly as quick, although a lot bouncier. Personally, I’d go for a manual, because I prefer them, but also because ageing auto boxes do fail sometimes, more often than the manuals, and the repair cost is not economic.
I could probably resist one, but the experience made me start to look at E36 M3s.... especially the 4-door ones... that is another story, however. 328s really are good cars.
The paint is faded (it is red), but the body has no noticeable rust, and the interior is also fine (if a bit plasticky); everything works, including the a/c, etc. I drove it for the first time just recently, and while the suspension is a bit bouncy for my taste, and the clutch bites rather high, it goes very well indeed, feeling small, light and really quite quick. I drive a manual E39 530 Sport – the E36 feels a lot smaller and lighter, and probably nearly as quick, although a lot bouncier. Personally, I’d go for a manual, because I prefer them, but also because ageing auto boxes do fail sometimes, more often than the manuals, and the repair cost is not economic.
I could probably resist one, but the experience made me start to look at E36 M3s.... especially the 4-door ones... that is another story, however. 328s really are good cars.
I run a '96 328i as a daily. Biggest unexpected bill so far was £400 for a new water pump and radiator and to have a permananently locked door opened. The only part of that I HAD to do was the radiator, which was around £200 fitted.
Nothing too scary so far on the bills front, and the car is still lovely to drive 14 years after it was built.
A good E36 328i is one of the best buys on the market imo. Mine was £1500, yet if I'd been charged 5k I would have felt aggreieved for what I got.
Nothing too scary so far on the bills front, and the car is still lovely to drive 14 years after it was built.
A good E36 328i is one of the best buys on the market imo. Mine was £1500, yet if I'd been charged 5k I would have felt aggreieved for what I got.
Do it! I bought one for somewhere near £1K a couple of weeks ago - it's an E36 328i sport with an LSD
it has a high mileage but so far so good (it's already lapped Silverstone and done a 300 mile round trip to staffordshire). parts seem relatively cheap and it's old enough to be quite DIY'able - they really are tremendous value at the moment.
it has a high mileage but so far so good (it's already lapped Silverstone and done a 300 mile round trip to staffordshire). parts seem relatively cheap and it's old enough to be quite DIY'able - they really are tremendous value at the moment.bodhi said:
I run a '96 328i as a daily. Biggest unexpected bill so far was £400 for a new water pump and radiator and to have a permananently locked door opened. The only part of that I HAD to do was the radiator, which was around £200 fitted.
Nothing too scary so far on the bills front, and the car is still lovely to drive 14 years after it was built.
A good E36 328i is one of the best buys on the market imo. Mine was £1500, yet if I'd been charged 5k I wouldn't have felt aggreieved for what I got.
Edited so it makes more sense Nothing too scary so far on the bills front, and the car is still lovely to drive 14 years after it was built.
A good E36 328i is one of the best buys on the market imo. Mine was £1500, yet if I'd been charged 5k I wouldn't have felt aggreieved for what I got.

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