Kerela - Anybody been?
Discussion
I'm thinking of going to Kerela in Jan 2011, (2 week break etc..). I just wondered if anybody has been and whether it was good/bad. Where did you stay for example and any other words of advice...I'm looking for a relaxing 2 week break with the OH, budget yet undecided but kinda know what ball park it's in. (i think)
Thanks
Thanks
Edited by rsole on Tuesday 14th September 21:23
Travelled through Kerala a couple of years ago with a few friends after attending a mate's wedding in Bangalore. Flew down to the south to Kovalam, then up through Varkala (quiet beach resort - very relaxing!) then further north - struggling to remember names I'm afraid! - for a couple of days on the backwaters. That was fun by day, but at nighttime the mosquitos got tiresome! I think we left the boat at Allepey and headed east up to Kumily (centre of the spice production) from which we had a long day travelling through the Periyar National Park (saw no tigers or elephants, but lots of leaches - euurgghh!). Then back west to Cochin before flying back to Bangalore. I've also been through Rajasthan, which is fantastic, but Kerala is more relaxing, and the higher level of education and lifestyle there is quite obvious. If you're thinking of going, just go! It's all great!
I've been to Kerala twice - in January 2004 and January 2005 when the weather is tropical. The first time was via an auction site so the accommodation wasn't great but for £600, for two of us, I wasn't complaining. That was near Lighthouse Beach. We were there a week and got the local "tuk-tuk" (or whatever they call them there) driver to take us to a local wood yard where, for a few rupees (mainly to feed bananas to the elephant), you got to ride on an elephant. Also visited the Neyyar Dam (park) and a local tea plantation and took a relaxing backwaters tour. Thoroughly enjoyed it - totally safe to wander at will (unlike African countries)but try to avoid taxis who all drive like idiots.
In 2005 we went to the Kovalam Beach Resort for 2 weeks, although even in the space of a year they were starting to chuck up hotels to the detriment of the charm and appeal of the area. Good or bad? You decide. Had a fantastic time and went to the Neyyar Dam again and once again used the local tuk-tuk drivers to take us on mini-tours of the area along the coast like Poovar. They seemed to have got wise to the bartering in the space of a year but it's still all pocket change, not air fares. Neyyar Dam has a crocodile "zoo" with mugger crocs taken from the local area but animal welfare isn't their best point. They also had Asian lions when we went though safety isn't their best point.
The mistake we made was doing a 3 day tour to the Periyar Natural Park - this involved a trip by car up the coast and an overnight stay on a very hot and mosquito-clad rice boat at Allepey. It was a great day trip round the backwaters but we were clearly on the Kia Picanto of rice boats compared to some of the luxo-barges running up and down. Ours had a cook and the food was good but we never did find the switch for the fan which made the night very uncomfortable and humid but watching the geckos slice into the mosquitos was something to pass the time. Found the switch the next morning behind the bed.
January is their religious season so you got woken by loads of knackered old speakers at 5am chanting Indian stuff of doubtless huge religious significance, lost on the average pagan traveller. We then went on to stay overnight at a hotel (Treetops IIRC) near Periyar and took in a local Kathakali dance/theatre thing, where blokes play the women and it's all very technical.
Periyar itself was a bit of a letdown - lots of people, not many animals to see bar monkeys running about the hotel car-park trees and around the reception of the park. The DVD is as close to the animals as you get. A good set of binoculars would be desirable to watch the otters working the river bank which was our highlight. Then it was a long and very rough and bumpy trip back along Indian roads where traffic sort of meanders and flows and by rights, there should be lots of accidents but they never seem to transpire. It's all pretty amazing but tiring.
Would I go again? Damn right but would probably stay in one of the new 5 star hotels they've built. Check the reviews carefully. The Hilton at Lighthouse Beach for example is a real dive. There is a restaurant down on Kovalam beach where they do great food and traditional Keralan dancing which was brilliant and a swift glance to the left will reveal the local fishermen hauling in the nets on the beach (not so keen on their bombing the fish though). A number of food cafes along that stretch too. You'll also see fruit bats flying overhead at night and look on the beach at night to see tiny specks of blue light emitted by some tiny phosphorescent creatures. You should also see toads and fireflies.
So, in summary, go and explore the local area by tuk-tuk which have a limited range but are way more fun than the taxis which charge a lot more. Get into Trivandrum and resist the little chance excursions into jewellery shops where they will try and part you from your money.
It's a poor country. The first time we took £400 and came back with £200. It was 80 rupees to the £ and a cup of coffee at the airport was 5 rupees. A local tuk-tuk ride was about 30-50 rupees. You will see little old grannies at the side of the roads breaking rocks with hammers which they buy from the government, break and sell it back. Many people will tell you to take pens for the kids which may have been true once but I think money is what they prefer (though they will very rarely beg)and the little hotel soaps go down well.
The people there are fantastic. You may feel shamed at staying in a posh hotel and being able to see the neighbouring shacks where people eke a living but unlike this country, they never seem to complain and you can't help coming away with a very healthy respect for them. Many don't have TVs, many still find digital cameras a novelty and will ask you to send them photos. It's a strange mix but what a great place.
2004 photos: http://www.facebook.com/editalbum.php?aid=31271#!/...
2005 photos: http://www.facebook.com/editalbum.php?aid=31271#!/...
In 2005 we went to the Kovalam Beach Resort for 2 weeks, although even in the space of a year they were starting to chuck up hotels to the detriment of the charm and appeal of the area. Good or bad? You decide. Had a fantastic time and went to the Neyyar Dam again and once again used the local tuk-tuk drivers to take us on mini-tours of the area along the coast like Poovar. They seemed to have got wise to the bartering in the space of a year but it's still all pocket change, not air fares. Neyyar Dam has a crocodile "zoo" with mugger crocs taken from the local area but animal welfare isn't their best point. They also had Asian lions when we went though safety isn't their best point.
The mistake we made was doing a 3 day tour to the Periyar Natural Park - this involved a trip by car up the coast and an overnight stay on a very hot and mosquito-clad rice boat at Allepey. It was a great day trip round the backwaters but we were clearly on the Kia Picanto of rice boats compared to some of the luxo-barges running up and down. Ours had a cook and the food was good but we never did find the switch for the fan which made the night very uncomfortable and humid but watching the geckos slice into the mosquitos was something to pass the time. Found the switch the next morning behind the bed.
January is their religious season so you got woken by loads of knackered old speakers at 5am chanting Indian stuff of doubtless huge religious significance, lost on the average pagan traveller. We then went on to stay overnight at a hotel (Treetops IIRC) near Periyar and took in a local Kathakali dance/theatre thing, where blokes play the women and it's all very technical.
Periyar itself was a bit of a letdown - lots of people, not many animals to see bar monkeys running about the hotel car-park trees and around the reception of the park. The DVD is as close to the animals as you get. A good set of binoculars would be desirable to watch the otters working the river bank which was our highlight. Then it was a long and very rough and bumpy trip back along Indian roads where traffic sort of meanders and flows and by rights, there should be lots of accidents but they never seem to transpire. It's all pretty amazing but tiring.
Would I go again? Damn right but would probably stay in one of the new 5 star hotels they've built. Check the reviews carefully. The Hilton at Lighthouse Beach for example is a real dive. There is a restaurant down on Kovalam beach where they do great food and traditional Keralan dancing which was brilliant and a swift glance to the left will reveal the local fishermen hauling in the nets on the beach (not so keen on their bombing the fish though). A number of food cafes along that stretch too. You'll also see fruit bats flying overhead at night and look on the beach at night to see tiny specks of blue light emitted by some tiny phosphorescent creatures. You should also see toads and fireflies.
So, in summary, go and explore the local area by tuk-tuk which have a limited range but are way more fun than the taxis which charge a lot more. Get into Trivandrum and resist the little chance excursions into jewellery shops where they will try and part you from your money.
It's a poor country. The first time we took £400 and came back with £200. It was 80 rupees to the £ and a cup of coffee at the airport was 5 rupees. A local tuk-tuk ride was about 30-50 rupees. You will see little old grannies at the side of the roads breaking rocks with hammers which they buy from the government, break and sell it back. Many people will tell you to take pens for the kids which may have been true once but I think money is what they prefer (though they will very rarely beg)and the little hotel soaps go down well.
The people there are fantastic. You may feel shamed at staying in a posh hotel and being able to see the neighbouring shacks where people eke a living but unlike this country, they never seem to complain and you can't help coming away with a very healthy respect for them. Many don't have TVs, many still find digital cameras a novelty and will ask you to send them photos. It's a strange mix but what a great place.
2004 photos: http://www.facebook.com/editalbum.php?aid=31271#!/...
2005 photos: http://www.facebook.com/editalbum.php?aid=31271#!/...
Edited by LuS1fer on Wednesday 15th September 22:21
Gassing Station | Holidays & Travel | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff