Faded Paintwork

[Old Gregg]

I've recently bought a 20 year old Integra and although it is generally in fantastic condition (only done 20k miles!), the paint is in need of a bit of attention in places;

- The bonnet has some slight fading and light white-ish hazing. It isn't bad and you don't really see it unless you're looking for it, but it is there.

- Around the back of the rear wings, the boot lid and on the spolier the paint has gone a little "flat" and has lost its shine. It also doesn't feel glassy smooth. Again, it isn't bad, but it needs doing.


I was going to upload pictures, but i just went out to take some and as it's raining it's almost impossible to even see, let alone photograph what i mean.

Actually, i have these pictures which might help:





Not brilliant, i know, but it shows that it isn't as bad as it might sound.

Would this be easy to correct? Would a good clean, clay, repeated polish and waxing bring back the lustre to the finish?

I don't really know where to begin, so any help is greatly appreciated.

[Marc9485]

A good compound & flat polish would work wonders then again the results a good detailer can achive are amazing from the pics looks a very tidy motor.

[Old Gregg]

Thanks for the reply. Are there any products you would recommend? And would it need a power polish?


I might end up looking into getting a professional to do it, but i'm curious as to whether it's something i could do before i go down that avenue.


Any other input from anyone else welcome

[Marc9485]

I've always used 3m's cutting compounds so im always going to favour them.

[PJ S]

First off is to buy and use a clay bar - Bilt Hamber regular or soft.
That should smoothen the paintwork very nicely, leaving just the polishing.
What you could do, is use Autoglym Super Resin Polish (AG SRP) or Dodo Juice Lime Prime (DJ LP) with a foam pad on the worst areas.
After that's done, then something like Bilt Hamber's Auto-balm would give you a chemical cleaning process, as well as a long lasting sealant protection for the paintwork.

Here's an example - http://www.pistonheads.co.uk/gassing/topic.asp?h=0...

http://www.pistonheads.co.uk/Gassing/topic.asp?h=0...

[Old Gregg]

Thanks very much PJS, advice duly noted. And cheers for the links, i've heard very good things about BH.

[samdale]

PJ S said:

Here's an example - http://www.pistonheads.co.uk/gassing/topic.asp?h=0...

This made me laugh, I've just bought a Volvo 360 with some VERY tired paintwork. Im no detailer but would really like this cars paint to look a lot better than it does now. Any advice you could give a complete amateur to get the old girl shining a little more? Some body panels I may just respray but would like to try my hand at improving some of them without the need to respray the whole car.
In case it makes a difference it's metallic black [/hijack]

[PJ S]

Shine or glossiness is a function of the paintwork being relatively swirl free.
Oxidised paint, can be brought back to full colour with the chemical cleaners in AB, or other AIO (all in one) brands.
Whilst its fillers will mask a good amount of swirls, ultimately its proper prep'work which makes the paint shine, and the wax/sealant protects it from the elements.

So, follow the advice above, and in the thread I linked. Check whilst wet after rinsing, with a bit of clingfilm stretched over a couple of fingertips, if the panels feel rough. If they do, wholly or in part, then take the clay bar to them.
That alone will make a mountain of difference, and lift the shine somewhat, depending on how badly contaminated it was.

In the absence of a machine polisher, you could hand polish the panels over a few days/weekends, or you could get a local detailer to come and polish them up for you, leaving you to them look after with proper washing techniques, which they'd be happy to explain.

[AndyClockwise]

Hi,

Another detailing newbie here - although a long term lurker.

I have a 97 Red Corolla that has faded paintwork, previously I have used original T-Cut applied with a stockingette material followed by a polish with Turtle Wax or similar.

However it always deteriorates back to pink in a short space of time.

I think I'll start with a BH soft clay, followed by AutoGlym Paint renovator, followed by the AG SRP and BH AB over a couple of days

I'm assuming an applicator pad for the paint renovator & subsequent polishes would be better than the stockingette?

As we are now entering the colder weather am I better off waiting until the warmer weather as my garage is full of junk?

There is absolutely no way I'm going to entertain the idea of power polishing as the very thought scares the hell out of me.

[PJ S]

Weather not too much an issue with the BH AB - even if spitting it can be applied and buffed off.
Don't think you'd gain much (other than sore arms) with the AG PR and SRP - one or other, but AB will lift dead oxidised paintwork off itself, chemically, anyway.
So unless you want to knock back some swirls rather than mask them, you could just get away with clay and balm, using the soft now it's colder - therefore it'll be easy to mould and fold.
Tepid water, not hot, as the soft can become stringy, if you're not man enough to bear the cold water from the hosepipe.

[AndyClockwise]

Thanks for the advice PJS - I think I'll go with the AB but leave it until the warmer drier weather

[PJ S]

AB is great winter LSP, leaving waxes for when it's warmer and nicer to apply more frequently.