Best replacement radiator

[gateeast]

I have almost finishing renewing my car (the list of new bits is getting silly)

Next up is the radiator, any ideas please?

[MPoxon]

I specified a Radtec for mine. Made from alumininum and you get an extra core compared to standard:

http://www.actproducts.co.uk/shop/ar002-tvr-griffi...

Coupled with, watter wetter, new thermostat, ACT Silicone hoses and ACT S/S hoses mine does not overheat at all now.

[gateeast]

Thank you - that was quick.

Do you know much about engines - mine has a tapping noise that goes when either the spark plug/injector is disconnected?

[hiltonig]

yep i also went for the ACT rad but used the Evans NPG coolant,

[Johno]

Just have yours re-cored, lot cheaper, more reliable (I think Dave Beer's the man whose been through a few, cracking etc) . . perfectly adequate to cool 300 ponies but doesn't look as bling or sound as cool in the pub.

If I were running more power, SC'ing etc then I'd consider an ally rad . . . Otherwise overkill in a standard car IMO.

[MPoxon]

No idea about the tapping sound I am afraid. It may be worth while starting a new thread and I am sure someone will be along with a suggestion.

I would be inclined to agree with Johno on the rad front. A standard recored rad is sufficient for most people's needs. I like shinny things so I went for the Radtec.

[red griff roger]

Went for the RadTec, and it worked fine for a couple of months. But they aren't very good on impact. This is all that was left after a Golf drove into me:

Will be putting another RadTec back in. Wish I had waited and saved some ££

[keesiev]

Had a discussion with somebody on replacing the radiator. He said that alu radiators were not so good, because they are more riggid and can therefore get cracks due to the movement of the cars chassis.
Anyone recognises this?

[stainless_steve]

MPoxon said:

I specified a Radtec for mine. Made from alumininum and you get an extra core compared to standard:

http://www.actproducts.co.uk/shop/ar002-tvr-griffi...

Coupled with, watter wetter, new thermostat, ACT Silicone hoses and ACT S/S hoses mine does not overheat at all now.

I've just bought this rad from Tim at ACT,for my little project,nice piece of kit

[steve-V8s]

May be wrong here but I think most of the Ally rads that people are selling are the Radtec ones. I shopped around a few suppliers asked If it was the Rad tec part to which the answer with every place I checked was yes. The only differance was the price. Have been pleased with mine and it as far as you can tell from the outside it appears very nicely made. Provided it is correctly mounted on the rubbery bits I can’t see how it will be stressed bat the chassis flexing. I think more recently they have not drilled the fixing holes on the two upper mounting ears. BY leaving them blank you can drill them to exactly match the car perhaps that was the cause of the problems some reported a while ago.
It certainly removes heat from a lot more effectively than the standard Ladrover part which struggled to control the temperature of my slight modified engine.

[FlipFlopGriff]

Had a Radtec rad in the 500 an it didn't last long which is the experience of a few people. Got the old rad recored in the end. If you do make sure you get the uprated one (Think its 4 cores as opposed to the original 3) and I had the core ends, which attach to the headers, uprated and strengthened - cost £150. No problems in over 2 years of daily use and engine temps are fine. Do have the David Beer fan kit though which is excellent as the fans run at 1/2 speed at a lower temp so they rarely come on at full speed now.
FFG

[TVR Beaver]

FlipFlopGriff said:

and I had the core ends, which attach to the headers, uprated and strengthened - FFG

Interesting.. what did this involve??.. Think this is where mine has a small issue now??

[FlipFlopGriff]

The ends of the cores are thicker than standard as though they have a sleeve on them. It may reduce the flexing, but don't know. They do always seem to go in the corner. You can have a look at the Growl, but remind me as i'll have forgotten by then.
FFG

[TVR Beaver]

FlipFlopGriff said:

The ends of the cores are thicker than standard as though they have a sleeve on them. It may reduce the flexing, but don't know. They do always seem to go in the corner. You can have a look at the Growl, but remind me as i'll have forgotten by then.
FFG

Will do.. Is that something you had done to a std core or was the core specialy made with these fitted? Just miffed that mine appears to be going this way again with only 3K on the thing!!.. It's like new otherwise!!

[FlipFlopGriff]

TVR Beaver said:

Will do.. Is that something you had done to a std core or was the core specialy made with these fitted? Just miffed that mine appears to be going this way again with only 3K on the thing!!.. It's like new otherwise!!

I asked the guy if he could uprate it as it always went where the core joins the headers so he did. He was based in Loughborough from memory.
FFG

[TVR Beaver]

[keesiev]

So if I conclude correctly, the Radtec radiator is much better in cooling the engine, but there can be some issues.
Is there anyone who has put the original steel radiator back and got issues as well?

[Hedgehopper]

I had my original rad. recored. I later had a small leak from the corner but this was easily repaired free of charge. Not sure if alloy rads. can be repaired, a question you need to ask.

I believe that the most important thing is not to bolt the rad. in tightly. Any flexing of the body could easily put stress on the rad. My rad. sits on rubber bushes and the top holes are oversized with the nuts left slack so that movement can be accomodated.

[carl350i]

I had the original rad re-done, was a lot cheaper and also you know its going to fit. I did fit new silicone hoses and stainless pipes, a lower temp otter switch and lower temp thermostat, the fans now switch off in the hottest of weather even in traffic. never overheated since.

[Loubaruch]

Have just replaced my rad with a recored original.
Was going to buy an aluminium one until an experienced rad repairer said that ali radiators are rigid and if they are twisted or strained they crack wheras brass/copper rads have a certain amount of give. He tested my failed unit and said failure almost certainly due to body/chassis flexing. As it has lasted 8 years he added that under the same conditions an ali one would not have lasted nearly so long.

Decided to shop around. Serck who have recored in the past no longer service car rads, not from their Newcastle branch anyway.

The best local price was £230.

Boston Radiator Services, Boston did the job for £185. only charged £10 carriage and picked the duff rad up at the same time. If no rad to exchange then £40 surcharge. 3 day turnaround, did a good job and pleasant to deal with.

A few problems I found with other ali components while replacing with silicon hoses:

http://bertram-hill.co.uk/GriffithCoolingSystemPro...