Contact adhesive and TVR Fibreglass
Discussion
About three years ago I re-stuck the soundproofing back on the inside of my boot/trunk using 3M contact adhesive.
I now have a rough patch of paint about 2 x 3", it feels like 60 grit emery
The rest of the car is super smooth.
Is it possible the adhesive has permiated the fibreglass where I may have put too much adhesive.
Or is it possible that the heat has pulled the adhesive through to the outer surface? (It has been hot this year)
Clear coat has gone and the black paint is whitish.
I now have a rough patch of paint about 2 x 3", it feels like 60 grit emery
The rest of the car is super smooth.Is it possible the adhesive has permiated the fibreglass where I may have put too much adhesive.
Or is it possible that the heat has pulled the adhesive through to the outer surface? (It has been hot this year)
Clear coat has gone and the black paint is whitish.
|http://thumbsnap.com/6YejHKi1[/url]Wow,, that looks more like something has been put on it..That dont look like its come from underneath.. If the top coat has gone then its possible that paint is coming off everytime you wash it.Has it happened gradually or did it just appear... It doesnt look like sun damage and in three years the glue should be well cured.. besides its only in one area.
Edited by mrzigazaga on Tuesday 21st September 19:08
Dealing with Car Paint Damage
The gloss that car paint provides to your vehicle will not only be helpful to fend off rust and corrosion, but it can also maintain the elegance and beauty of the automobile's exterior. However, overexposure to sunlight and other damaging factors can oxidise or chip the paint. Hence, it slowly turns from bright glossy to dull and rough. This can be noticeable initially on the hood and sometimes on the roof.
Once the clear coat of the car is slowly thinned out, it exposes the body to corrosive factors, causing damage to affected areas. One of the major damages that your car can go through is the deterioration of its aesthetics value, which can be costly in many levels. Nevertheless, this can be dealt with by polishing your car to restore mild to moderate damage due to paint oxidation. To avoid this entirely, park your vehicle away from sunlight and protect it with paint sealant or car wax.
Unfortunately, if damage to your automobile severe, it will require repainting. Therefore, it can be very useful to obtain a little knowledge in car detailing in order to stop the occurrence of both oxidation and chipping. Others might think that this is a difficult task, but all you actually need is time with your vehicle and your willingness to maintain its paint. You simply have to invest an hour each weekend to maintain the finish of your ride for a long time. Look for specialised car waxes to avoid further damage. In extreme cases, however, you can contact a car detailing specialist so that proper attention will be given to your transport.
A little article on paint if its any use..
The gloss that car paint provides to your vehicle will not only be helpful to fend off rust and corrosion, but it can also maintain the elegance and beauty of the automobile's exterior. However, overexposure to sunlight and other damaging factors can oxidise or chip the paint. Hence, it slowly turns from bright glossy to dull and rough. This can be noticeable initially on the hood and sometimes on the roof.
Once the clear coat of the car is slowly thinned out, it exposes the body to corrosive factors, causing damage to affected areas. One of the major damages that your car can go through is the deterioration of its aesthetics value, which can be costly in many levels. Nevertheless, this can be dealt with by polishing your car to restore mild to moderate damage due to paint oxidation. To avoid this entirely, park your vehicle away from sunlight and protect it with paint sealant or car wax.
Unfortunately, if damage to your automobile severe, it will require repainting. Therefore, it can be very useful to obtain a little knowledge in car detailing in order to stop the occurrence of both oxidation and chipping. Others might think that this is a difficult task, but all you actually need is time with your vehicle and your willingness to maintain its paint. You simply have to invest an hour each weekend to maintain the finish of your ride for a long time. Look for specialised car waxes to avoid further damage. In extreme cases, however, you can contact a car detailing specialist so that proper attention will be given to your transport.
A little article on paint if its any use..
It looks like an albatros ingested a curry and then crapped on my car.
60 grit emery in not an exageration.
It wasn't bird crap though, I'd have seen it and washed it off.
I keep my cars faily clean, they are always waxed. I give them a wipe down if it rains or if they get dusty.
I first saw it was two weeks because the soft cloth I was using dragged on the surface, it was not really that noticable to the eye. Then it deteiriated really fast to what you can see now.
You can't tell from the pic but it looks like quartz, it has a sparkle if veiwed from a certain angle.
It's not that difficult to respray as it's the trunk, but I'm concerned it could reappear if I just prep it normally..
60 grit emery in not an exageration.
It wasn't bird crap though, I'd have seen it and washed it off.
I keep my cars faily clean, they are always waxed. I give them a wipe down if it rains or if they get dusty.
I first saw it was two weeks because the soft cloth I was using dragged on the surface, it was not really that noticable to the eye. Then it deteiriated really fast to what you can see now.
You can't tell from the pic but it looks like quartz, it has a sparkle if veiwed from a certain angle.
It's not that difficult to respray as it's the trunk, but I'm concerned it could reappear if I just prep it normally..
It does look like something has reacted with the paint.. Have you been liberal with waxes as some of them contain cutting compounds..Most protruding paint damage is reactions with something or another..zig
http://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&source=web&am...
http://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&source=web&am...
Edited by mrzigazaga on Tuesday 21st September 23:53
I think that's it's a paint problem not a fibreglass problem. So re-paint it.
If your original theory is correct then you'll have to grind away the fibreglass, re-mat and repaint. Unlikely but possible.
If the wearing away from above is correct then you'll have to sand the fibreglass, re-tissue and repaint. If this theory were correct then you would have polished away the paint and be left polishing the transparent fibreglass for a long time before you polished away the tissue and more gel for a long time before reaching the matting. Do you really polish your car for hours each day? Very unlikely.
Since the second option is a much bigger job than the first I'd choose the first option and see how you go.
If your original theory is correct then you'll have to grind away the fibreglass, re-mat and repaint. Unlikely but possible.
If the wearing away from above is correct then you'll have to sand the fibreglass, re-tissue and repaint. If this theory were correct then you would have polished away the paint and be left polishing the transparent fibreglass for a long time before you polished away the tissue and more gel for a long time before reaching the matting. Do you really polish your car for hours each day? Very unlikely.
Since the second option is a much bigger job than the first I'd choose the first option and see how you go.
If this is a non-metallic original paint I would T-cut the affected area back. My experience with wedge paint is that the non-metallic coats are very thick indeed, I had a white car that seemed to have about 10 coats and you could T-cut it time and time again.
I don't think you have anything to lose and will save many £££ if it works.
I don't think you have anything to lose and will save many £££ if it works.
mrzigazaga said:
Fibreglass is porous
Really? I know it can delaminate if fractured and water gets into the strands 'endways-on', if you like, but if it was THAT porous nobody would ever dare go out to sea in a fibreglass boat... I have two old GRP sea kayaks and the only damage they have is due to collisions with rocks 
Wedg1e said:
mrzigazaga said:
Fibreglass is porous
Really? I know it can delaminate if fractured and water gets into the strands 'endways-on', if you like, but if it was THAT porous nobody would ever dare go out to sea in a fibreglass boat... I have two old GRP sea kayaks and the only damage they have is due to collisions with rocks 
Jeff - Is the damaged area soft(er)? In my boating, surfboard and car experience if something really weakens it it it will go soft or blistery. I wonder if something was spilled on it.
And to show how crazy the world is, my eclectic driveway gate acted up and wouldn't close so my wife left the gate open with the cover off the motor box. I went out to look at it tonight and found someone has stolen the receiver box!
And to show how crazy the world is, my eclectic driveway gate acted up and wouldn't close so my wife left the gate open with the cover off the motor box. I went out to look at it tonight and found someone has stolen the receiver box!
Could it be a previous repair going wrong? My paint was in really good shape for years, then I had a problem like this 'grow' over time to a larger scale. I've just had mine resprayed (boot & rear wings). The bodyshop took the paint back to the fibre glass, the affected areas were over a previous repair, which had become destabilised. The area required re-stabilisation by re-glassing and I think extra priming, then flattened and re-sprayed.
Well I had a F.G. Racing Cat that took on water.
I don't use a mech polisher.
I think I may have given the wrong impression, I'm not an avid detailer.
This is not the physical wearing away of paint.
The surface is very rough and elevated, definately not wear. T-Cut would not shift this, it is very hard it would tear the applicater (cloth).
It's early morning now, I shall take it round to a couple of shops for them to take a look. Just respraying is easy, but I don't want a repeat.
Grady, if you go to the local carenderia you may be able to buy it back
I don't use a mech polisher.
I think I may have given the wrong impression, I'm not an avid detailer.
This is not the physical wearing away of paint.
The surface is very rough and elevated, definately not wear. T-Cut would not shift this, it is very hard it would tear the applicater (cloth).
It's early morning now, I shall take it round to a couple of shops for them to take a look. Just respraying is easy, but I don't want a repeat.
Grady, if you go to the local carenderia you may be able to buy it back
crackedfinger said:
Could it be a previous repair going wrong? My paint was in really good shape for years, then I had a problem like this 'grow' over time to a larger scale. I've just had mine resprayed (boot & rear wings). The bodyshop took the paint back to the fibre glass, the affected areas were over a previous repair, which had become destabilised. The area required re-stabilisation by re-glassing and I think extra priming, then flattened and re-sprayed.
This is possible as it is a respray, although quite an expensive one. I dont think it could be the result of accident damage, but I suspect the solution may be the same.(as yours)
Racists..only joking.. jesus jeff just how much glue did you use..it is after all contact adhesive which should be applied liberally and allowed to dry..if you over do it it will stay spongy between the film that has set..if the roughness is pimples about the same size then it would be the adhesive reacting with the resin..A good body shop should be able to level it out and respray it.. good luck mate.. zig
Glass fibers are useful because of their high ratio of surface area to weight. However, the increased surface area makes them much more susceptible to chemical attack. By trapping air within them, blocks of glass fiber make good thermal insulation, with a thermal conductivity of the order of 0.05 W/(m·K).[7]
The strength of glass is usually tested and reported for "virgin" or pristine fibers—those that have just been manufactured. The freshest, thinnest fibers are the strongest because the thinner fibers are more ductile. The more the surface is scratched, the less the resulting tenacity.[5] Because glass has an amorphous structure, its properties are the same along the fiber and across the fiber.[4] Humidity is an important factor in the tensile strength. Moisture is easily adsorbed, and can worsen microscopic cracks and surface defects, and lessen tenacity.
Like i said fibreglass is porous.. how else would the glue of got through..
The strength of glass is usually tested and reported for "virgin" or pristine fibers—those that have just been manufactured. The freshest, thinnest fibers are the strongest because the thinner fibers are more ductile. The more the surface is scratched, the less the resulting tenacity.[5] Because glass has an amorphous structure, its properties are the same along the fiber and across the fiber.[4] Humidity is an important factor in the tensile strength. Moisture is easily adsorbed, and can worsen microscopic cracks and surface defects, and lessen tenacity.
Like i said fibreglass is porous.. how else would the glue of got through..
mrzigazaga said:
Glass fibers are useful because of their high ratio of surface area to weight. However, the increased surface area makes them much more susceptible to chemical attack. By trapping air within them, blocks of glass fiber make good thermal insulation, with a thermal conductivity of the order of 0.05 W/(m·K).[7]
The strength of glass is usually tested and reported for "virgin" or pristine fibers—those that have just been manufactured. The freshest, thinnest fibers are the strongest because the thinner fibers are more ductile. The more the surface is scratched, the less the resulting tenacity.[5] Because glass has an amorphous structure, its properties are the same along the fiber and across the fiber.[4] Humidity is an important factor in the tensile strength. Moisture is easily adsorbed, and can worsen microscopic cracks and surface defects, and lessen tenacity.
Like i said fibreglass is porous.. how else would the glue of got through..
You don't seem to be able to differentiate between glass fibres and fibreglass:The strength of glass is usually tested and reported for "virgin" or pristine fibers—those that have just been manufactured. The freshest, thinnest fibers are the strongest because the thinner fibers are more ductile. The more the surface is scratched, the less the resulting tenacity.[5] Because glass has an amorphous structure, its properties are the same along the fiber and across the fiber.[4] Humidity is an important factor in the tensile strength. Moisture is easily adsorbed, and can worsen microscopic cracks and surface defects, and lessen tenacity.
Like i said fibreglass is porous.. how else would the glue of got through..
mrzigazaga said:
Wedg1e said:
mrzigazaga said:
Fibreglass is porous
Really? I know it can delaminate if fractured and water gets into the strands 'endways-on', if you like, but if it was THAT porous nobody would ever dare go out to sea in a fibreglass boat... I have two old GRP sea kayaks and the only damage they have is due to collisions with rocks Oh forget it already..i didnt post it all because it is a detailed explanation of fibre glass and yes i do know the difference.. i was trying to emphasise that if damaged,the fibres can become porous.the only water proof part is the resin and that isnt made of fibreglass..get a big sheet of it and use it as a lilo.. see ya..In fact glass fibre and fibre glass are the same thing just cut and woven differently.. fibreglass can become porus
I stand corrected wedg1e..i totally forgot about the resin..
End of already.. it feels like im standing in court being drilled by a barrister. please..thankyou.
JR said:
mrzigazaga said:
Glass fibers are useful because of their high ratio of surface area to weight. However, the increased surface area makes them much more susceptible to chemical attack. By trapping air within them, blocks of glass fiber make good thermal insulation, with a thermal conductivity of the order of 0.05 W/(m·K).[7]
The strength of glass is usually tested and reported for "virgin" or pristine fibers—those that have just been manufactured. The freshest, thinnest fibers are the strongest because the thinner fibers are more ductile. The more the surface is scratched, the less the resulting tenacity.[5] Because glass has an amorphous structure, its properties are the same along the fiber and across the fiber.[4] Humidity is an important factor in the tensile strength. Moisture is easily adsorbed, and can worsen microscopic cracks and surface defects, and lessen tenacity.
Like i said fibreglass is porous.. how else would the glue of got through..
You don't seem to be able to differentiate between glass fibres and fibreglass:The strength of glass is usually tested and reported for "virgin" or pristine fibers—those that have just been manufactured. The freshest, thinnest fibers are the strongest because the thinner fibers are more ductile. The more the surface is scratched, the less the resulting tenacity.[5] Because glass has an amorphous structure, its properties are the same along the fiber and across the fiber.[4] Humidity is an important factor in the tensile strength. Moisture is easily adsorbed, and can worsen microscopic cracks and surface defects, and lessen tenacity.
Like i said fibreglass is porous.. how else would the glue of got through..
mrzigazaga said:
Wedg1e said:
mrzigazaga said:
Fibreglass is porous
Really? I know it can delaminate if fractured and water gets into the strands 'endways-on', if you like, but if it was THAT porous nobody would ever dare go out to sea in a fibreglass boat... I have two old GRP sea kayaks and the only damage they have is due to collisions with rocks Edited by mrzigazaga on Thursday 23 September 09:54
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