Wet underfloor heating question(s)
Discussion
We have wet undefloor heating in our property (its 20 years old but we've only been here for a year)
One of the rooms is too hot for our liking, so I assume to adjust it I need to adjust the flow to that room, or loop.
Question is, should this be done at the top valve on this picture (flow?) or the return valve (under the metal cap with an alen key) on the undefloor manifold?
2nd question, I also have the timer set to operate the underfloor heating from 5am till midday then, then back on again from 17:00 - 23:00 hrs
Should it just be left to run 24/7 or is the above ok? (I'm happy to do either but seems a bit wasteful when we're asleep or at work)
The thermostat is set to 20c
One of the rooms is too hot for our liking, so I assume to adjust it I need to adjust the flow to that room, or loop.
Question is, should this be done at the top valve on this picture (flow?) or the return valve (under the metal cap with an alen key) on the undefloor manifold?
2nd question, I also have the timer set to operate the underfloor heating from 5am till midday then, then back on again from 17:00 - 23:00 hrs
Should it just be left to run 24/7 or is the above ok? (I'm happy to do either but seems a bit wasteful when we're asleep or at work)
The thermostat is set to 20c
Edited by matts4 on Sunday 26th September 18:09
The white caps on the top should regulate the flow. Some manifolds have a flow gauge on them, but it doesn't seem yours does, a bit of trial and error until you get it right.
Looking at that manifold, I'm guessing you don't have the each zone controlled by a thermostat? You'll have too experiment with the times, does seem pointless having it running when you are in work.
Looking at that manifold, I'm guessing you don't have the each zone controlled by a thermostat? You'll have too experiment with the times, does seem pointless having it running when you are in work.
It's usual to have flow meters on the inlet manifold, and adjust the valves on the outlet (which in your case would appear to be the allen keys) - but it really doesn't matter.
The allen keys are probably the way to go, you may find it easier to turn the zone off completely and keep opening it enough to give the heat you want rather than trying to turn it down.
To some extent the operating times are determined by the volume of concrete, if you have a shallow system you can use it for heating, ie switch on when you want heat. If the system is deep use it as energy storage and maintain the temperature all the time.
The allen keys are probably the way to go, you may find it easier to turn the zone off completely and keep opening it enough to give the heat you want rather than trying to turn it down.
To some extent the operating times are determined by the volume of concrete, if you have a shallow system you can use it for heating, ie switch on when you want heat. If the system is deep use it as energy storage and maintain the temperature all the time.
Thanks for all the replies.
Typically the weather now seems to have got warmer, thus the 20c thermostat isn't really kicking in, and then when it does, by the time the slab has heated up, so has the temp outisde, thus I have a very warm house thanks to the residual heat in the slab!
Roll on the days when its 10c or lower outside, that way I can balance it better!
Typically the weather now seems to have got warmer, thus the 20c thermostat isn't really kicking in, and then when it does, by the time the slab has heated up, so has the temp outisde, thus I have a very warm house thanks to the residual heat in the slab!
Roll on the days when its 10c or lower outside, that way I can balance it better!
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