Dripping coolant.
Discussion
The early Cerbs have a knack of cracking the ends of the rad as it's a modified Range Rover item and was never designed to flex as much as our cars allow. The later ones appear to be modified with stiffening. I managed to crack the one in mine (late 97 reg) but it only showed when cold and stationary. The leak would seal up once warm and even held some pressure. When cold it dripped from the bottom of the rad, but as the front of the car under the rad works as a drip tray, nothing was seen on the floor and once moving the wind blew it out, hence much head scratching. (WTF is the water going 
)
Let it cool, pref overnight, then get a torch and look down through the rad fans at the bottom of the rad. If you can see water around or on the bottom fins, yours may be the same. It could in theory be dripping from the sides of the under-tray, as the first point of escape, hence your strange exit point.
) Let it cool, pref overnight, then get a torch and look down through the rad fans at the bottom of the rad. If you can see water around or on the bottom fins, yours may be the same. It could in theory be dripping from the sides of the under-tray, as the first point of escape, hence your strange exit point.
suffolkfox said:
The early Cerbs have a knack of cracking the ends of the rad as it's a modified Range Rover item and was never designed to flex as much as our cars allow. The later ones appear to be modified with stiffening. I managed to crack the one in mine (late 97 reg) but it only showed when cold and stationary. The leak would seal up once warm and even held some pressure. When cold it dripped from the bottom of the rad, but as the front of the car under the rad works as a drip tray, nothing was seen on the floor and once moving the wind blew it out, hence much head scratching. (WTF is the water going
Let it cool, pref overnight, then get a torch and look down through the rad fans at the bottom of the rad. If you can see water around or on the bottom fins, yours may be the same. It could in theory be dripping from the sides of the under-tray, as the first point of escape, hence your strange exit point.
Hi Jerry.
Had another look this morning but cant see any signs of a leak. Next time I go out in her, i'll have a look.
Can you pressure test cerbs, like you can 'normal' cars?
As a continuation from the start of this thread a few weeks ago, i've been keeping an eye on the leak/coolant level. I think there is a very slight, and I mean very slight leak somewhere around the bottom of the radiator, but can I 
find it, but things look slightly damp after a run. The coolant level doesn't alter much, so i'm not worried too much at this stage.
My question is this. Is there anything that can be put in the coolant that will help 'seal' it, wherever it is. i.e. radweld.
find it, but things look slightly damp after a run. The coolant level doesn't alter much, so i'm not worried too much at this stage. My question is this. Is there anything that can be put in the coolant that will help 'seal' it, wherever it is. i.e. radweld.
kojak69 said:
My question is this. Is there anything that can be put in the coolant that will help 'seal' it, wherever it is. i.e. radweld.
Years ago when i had an old banger and no money, i had a small leak in the rad...was told to run the car till warm then crack an egg into the top of the rad...it worked for me...
I wouldn't use Radweld as a permenent solution as it can lead to partially blocked channels in the engine etc. I have used it in an emergency but then had to flush the whole system and find out the real cause. USing eggs means the cholestorol level for the car will be too high and you'll have to grease the bearings with Flora Pro-ACtive to get them back down again.
If the coolent is not blue, it could be water as you can get water condesation drips from the air con. If it is and it is small it may only be apparent under pressure and might just be a loose jubilee clip. Another culprit are the two metal water pipes under that front cover which can corrode and leak. If they are it is worth getting them replaced with stainless steel ones.
It caould also be the rad. A small leak can often be lived with but replacement or repair is usually the way forward. Many of the specilaists can pressurise the system to see where a leak is occuring without running the engine. I have used this technique at Tower View on a couple of occassions and it has identified leaks that I couldn't find.
Steve
www.tvrbooks.co.uk
If the coolent is not blue, it could be water as you can get water condesation drips from the air con. If it is and it is small it may only be apparent under pressure and might just be a loose jubilee clip. Another culprit are the two metal water pipes under that front cover which can corrode and leak. If they are it is worth getting them replaced with stainless steel ones.
It caould also be the rad. A small leak can often be lived with but replacement or repair is usually the way forward. Many of the specilaists can pressurise the system to see where a leak is occuring without running the engine. I have used this technique at Tower View on a couple of occassions and it has identified leaks that I couldn't find.
Steve
www.tvrbooks.co.uk
I've started writing...
My Cerbie is going down to Tower View for the "let's take it apart and put it back together agin in the name of research" rebuild. I'm garage lackie grade 3 on the project.
The plan is to go through it with a fine tooth comb and then do some upgrades to the suspension, brakes etc. I'm looking at using some of the technology we have developed for the 520 and transferring it over. Won't turn it into an out and out racer but will tweak it a bit. I've some Tuscan Racer bits that are going to get added. Also looking at some new dashes and other bits and pieces. Rose jointing and different shock/spring combinations in particular are another topic.
May also go the Emerald route as well but it all depends as they say.
My Cerbie is going down to Tower View for the "let's take it apart and put it back together agin in the name of research" rebuild. I'm garage lackie grade 3 on the project.
The plan is to go through it with a fine tooth comb and then do some upgrades to the suspension, brakes etc. I'm looking at using some of the technology we have developed for the 520 and transferring it over. Won't turn it into an out and out racer but will tweak it a bit. I've some Tuscan Racer bits that are going to get added. Also looking at some new dashes and other bits and pieces. Rose jointing and different shock/spring combinations in particular are another topic.
May also go the Emerald route as well but it all depends as they say.
I have a few questions on the small leak that I reported a few weeks ago.
I've found where, or whereabouts the small leak is coming from.
1. Is it a big job to take the rad off..or is it a job for Joolz.
2. I know Warranty Holdings are having problems, but they will still honor existing policyholders, but is this covered. It does say radiators are.
3. Is it a no no to use rad weld or similar...assuming it might cure it. I dont want to cure the radiator at the expense of something getting blocked elsewhere.
Thank you in anticipation.
I've found where, or whereabouts the small leak is coming from.
1. Is it a big job to take the rad off..or is it a job for Joolz.
2. I know Warranty Holdings are having problems, but they will still honor existing policyholders, but is this covered. It does say radiators are.
3. Is it a no no to use rad weld or similar...assuming it might cure it. I dont want to cure the radiator at the expense of something getting blocked elsewhere.
Thank you in anticipation.
It would appear from the location to be as with mine, an end cracked (or rather cracking) off. You may be able to get the hole brazed up, but removal is awkward so I would (and did) go the specialist route for this, as a good one should be able to advise either repair or replace. Jools can't be far from you, I would give him a shout.
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