Wooden worktop

[illmonkey]

We're looking at changing our current laminate worktop to a wooden one.

Can anyone suggest a good place to get them? Fitting isn't a problem, a friend is a carpenter.

We happened to be in Ikea yesterday, looking at theirs and it seemed fairly good. Wood is wood right?

http://www.ikea.com/gb/en/catalog/products/2012367... - in oak.

Is it worth spending more, or just get the cheapest and make sure its treated?

[rovermorris999]

They're lovely but a relatively high maintenance option. You need to retreat regularly. And they don't like hot pans.

[illmonkey]

rovermorris999 said:

They're lovely but a relatively high maintenance option. You need to retreat regularly. And they don't like hot pans.

Retreating shouldn't be too much bother.

We're also very adjusted to using pan stands/ solid chopping boards etc.

[RichB]

Have had a 2" thick solid beach wooden kitchen surfaces in my kitchen for about 10 years, still look almost like new and in the 10 years it's been treated with Danish oil about 3 times. IMO it gives a much warmer look and feel to the room than granite. Obviously don't chop on it and don't scrape heavy pans around but basically it's long lasting.

[Davi]

relatively high maintenance my arse, 10 minutes to rub over with an oily rag once or twice a year.

I got mine direct from an importer, with a bit of bartering I got it at less than half the cost of going to Ikea / B&Q / N.E. Other, so if you have a carpenter mate, that is by far the best option. I'll see if I can find their name for you.

[Simpo Two]

illmonkey said:

We happened to be in Ikea yesterday, looking at theirs and it seemed fairly good. Wood is wood right?

I'm a big fan of wood, but there are infinite kinds. Popular for worktops are oak, beech, cherry, walnut and teak/iroko. All have different colours, characters and grain so choose the one you like best. The sections are called staves; the wider the stave, the more expensive it is. Remember that wood goes darker when it's stained/oiled/varnished.

[rossc]

You should be able to get it for <£50/m via the trade i.e. your mate...

We have 40mm beech, once its been well oiled initially, its just a couple of times a year which takes no time and looks way better than any laminate imho.

[Davi]

Simpo Two said:

The sections are called staves; the wider the stave, the more expensive it is.

Also, as with ALL timber, it's graded - higher grades mean smaller knots, less filler and less chance of shakes and warp. Cheap wood can be seriously ropey (Just look at budget "wooden" doors from B&Q, they aren't even made of joinery grade timber, frankly are expensive firewood)

Edited by Davi on Wednesday 29th September 09:47

[RichB]

Simpo Two said:

The sections are called staves.

Didn't know that, can see it is made up of kind of blocks but didn't know they are called staves.

[rovermorris999]

''relatively high maintenance my arse,''

Look up the word 'relatively' in a dictionary. Relative to a conventional worktop, it is.

Taken from the website of a supplier of wooden worktops:
''MAINTENANCE
Before installation, the worktop must be treated on all edges and on both surfaces. Use the Formica
Limited recommended Danish Oil or similar. Oiling should be carried out at least twice, allowing the
oil to dry and giving the worktop a light sanding in between coats, following closely the instructions
from the oil manufacturer.
Make sure also that all visible end grain is sealed with oil, paying special attention to cut-outs for
sinks and hobs.
After a period of use the finish will become worn; the sheen will diminish and the surface become dull.
Water will not form into droplets as readily, but tend to spread out and wet the surface. This is a clear
sign that the worktop needs re-oiling; in fact it is better to re-oil before the surfaces quite reach this
condition. The time taken for wear to occur depends on the amount of use the surface has had. In
any one kitchen there will be high wear and low wear zones; the former will need more attention
than the latter.
The first six weeks after installation are the most important in the life of the worktop. A light oiling twice
a week during this period will ensure long term maintenance of the worktop.
The entire kitchen surface should be re-oiled regularly, at the very least every 3 months.''

Edited by rovermorris999 on Wednesday 29th September 12:43

[zcacogp]

Different places will sell very similar looking products for quite different prices. And the quality of the installation job will make a much bigger difference to the perceived quality (and longevity) of the kitchen than the wood used.

If you can get them from the supplier, you may be able to choose the lengths you get. If you are anything like me, you'll want the most characterful wood possible; differences in tone and colour and a few knots (well-finished and totally smooth) are more appealing to my eye than regular strips of the same colour and texture.


Oli.

[Manks]

I would run with the high maintenance argument.

You need to keep the area round your taps dry otherwise the wood will stain. Even if you re-oil regularly.

If you do put a hot pan on the surface it will put a deep mark in the wood. In fact this is basically how gunmakers used to fake wood figuring on cheaper gun stocks. It's very difficult to effect a local repair because of the "patina" on the rest of the top. So you'll need to refinish the whole section.

That's my experience anyway.

Edited by Manks on Wednesday 29th September 17:32

[Simpo Two]

You have to vacuum carpets every few days, but people still have them. Because they're nice.

[Manks]

Simpo Two said:

You have to vacuum carpets every few days, but people still have them. Because they're nice.

Or because they prefer carpet burns to splinters.

[-Pete-]

Much as I love wood, a couple of friends have wooden worktops and within a year they were heavily marked around the sink. I'd use it away from heat and water, but otherwise I'd avoid it. Unless, of course, you want it to look used/distressed.

[m3jappa]

Our house came with a Kitchen with iroko worktops. The previous owners had not even attempted to loo after them, scratches,burns, big black marks which i understand now are caused by water underneath a pan for instance.

So i set about re furbing them, i could not throw them away as it appears £600 per 3m length is thereabouts the going rate.

80 grit on electric sander took them right back , then i worked my way up through the grades until 400 iirc at which point the burns,scratches etc were all gone, dare i say it but i reckon they were better than new !

Stained them with jacobean oak as i liked it then sealed with some special hygenic sealer for kitchens. Looks lovely, very warm but after about 5 months do need another coat i reckon as water does not bead that well now.

That said i put a similar looking laminate in the utility as i knew i would use that sink for car washing water and would make a mess and did not want to be pouring all sorts of crap on expensive worktops.

My opinion is that i like them, the problem with stone like granite is they will also stain and scratch and will be near impossible to renovate yourself.



The finest imo is staturio marble, go have a look for that, most beautiful stone in my eyes but don't show it any lemon juice!

[whirligig]

Manks said:

I would run with the high maintenance argument.

You need to keep the area round your taps dry otherwise the wood will stain. Even if you re-oil regularly.


That's my experience anyway.

My experience too. However I think it's worth it as I love the look and feel of real wood. Just have to be especially vigilant around the sink in particular.

[Simpo Two]

whirligig said:

My experience too. However I think it's worth it as I love the look and feel of real wood. Just have to be especially vigilant around the sink in particular.

Yep. Try never to leave water or oil standing on the surface. Regardless of the finish, it will eventually sink in and leave a dark patch.

Ironically the only bullet-proof worktop is laminate over chipboard, but nobody likes it!!

[RichB]

-Pete- said:

Much as I love wood, a couple of friends have wooden worktops and within a year they were heavily marked around the sink. I'd use it away from heat and water, but otherwise I'd avoid it. Unless, of course, you want it to look used/distressed.

As I said earlier that's not our experience. We're by no means anal about it just normal people who use the kitchen to cook and eat in and after 10 years I can honestly say it's excellent. Perhaps you're mates are exceptionally careless?

[Davi]

RichB said:

-Pete- said:

Much as I love wood, a couple of friends have wooden worktops and within a year they were heavily marked around the sink. I'd use it away from heat and water, but otherwise I'd avoid it. Unless, of course, you want it to look used/distressed.

As I said earlier that's not our experience. We're by no means anal about it just normal people who use the kitchen to cook and eat in and after 10 years I can honestly say it's excellent. Perhaps you're mates are exceptionally careless?

Of course, it could also be the wood :P Ours (european walnut) is quite dark so dark stains aren't going to show much!

Around our tap gets "weathered" faster than anywhere else, but that is simply because my wife is careless - she does the washing up and just turns the taps on and off with soapy, dripping wet hands, which obviously drips onto the wood, then leaves it there. Its not the water, its SOAPY water that damages the oil surface, especially when left.

Me, I rinse and flick the excess water off into the sink before I turn the tap off. Takes all of 2 seconds and there is never a drop of water around the tap when I've finished.